Broken input shaft Poll - Page 4 - SRT Forums

jts323 · 10-15-2006, 01:19 PM

i just broke mine yesterday at E-town the turbo dodge Vs evo day. lil i was the white acr sitting on the side i have stock turbo with 280whp 325wtq and a 2 week old act street clutch. i was on slicks and i did my burnout fine but when i staged and dropped it at 4k the car didnt even move 1" just revd up fast so im guessing its the inputshaft because the clutch still has pressure and i have all my gears. MY question is if i take it to my dealer with the new clutch in there would there cover it still i only have 23k on the car thanks

chuck's_srt-4 · 10-15-2006, 02:15 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by ptperformance

Have you broken any more?

Sorry Ptp. Didn't even see your post till today. I haven't broken another one yet. I don't know if I'm just lukcy and scored a good one finally, or what. But when/if I do break it ever again, I will be sure to give you the heads up, first!

Quote: Originally Posted by jts323

i just broke mine yesterday at E-town the turbo dodge Vs evo day. lil i was the white acr sitting on the side i have stock turbo with 280whp 325wtq and a 2 week old act street clutch. i was on slicks and i did my burnout fine but when i staged and dropped it at 4k the car didnt even move 1" just revd up fast so im guessing its the inputshaft because the clutch still has pressure and i have all my gears. MY question is if i take it to my dealer with the new clutch in there would there cover it still i only have 23k on the car thanks

You might want to check out your axles, first! It's much more likely to be the problem than an input shaft. Just start your car, put the e-brake on, and put it in gear. Then look under the car to see which knuckle is spinning(passenger, or driver). If neither one is spinning, then you will want to start thinking the input shaft.

Usually, if you break an input shaft, you will also be able to put the car into any gear while it's running without using the clutch at all. Also, with the disc not being centered on an input shaft anymore, you will usually experience horrific vibrations. These are just a few ways of diagnosing your problem.

FYX193 · 10-23-2006, 12:49 PM

Build Date: Sept. 2003
Miles: ~67K
Clutch: ~47K mile old Mopar Performance Clutch
Broke while driving normally and shifting into 3rd gear.

I'm not 100% sure if mine broke or not... I was experiencing a whining noise while in nutural and if I depressed the clutch peddle it stopped. If I was in gear and driving it was whining faster and faster until I approached 2500rpm when either the sound was gone or the motor/exhaust was louder than the sound.

Eventually the gears would make a loud Clunk sound when I engaged them, and then while driving normally on an uphill hwy off ramp I shifted into third gear and the clutch started to slip when a light throttle was applied. Then I heard a loud Bang and several clank...clank...clanks. The car started/ran fine, but the transmission would not engage any gears. I could freely move the shifter while the car was on without pressing the clutch peddle in, but the gears would not engage. If I put the clutch peddle in and tried to engage the gear, it would lock up and become extremely difficult to remove the gear.

When the service shop removed the transmission and inspected the damage, they couldn't tell me what happened to it. All they said was that alot of small pieces were tossed around inside the transmission and caused severe damage to the entire transmission & clutch. The inner housing was severely gashed/cut from these pieces. I am going to be getting a new transmission under warranty, and I'll have to buy a new clutch to replace my Mopar Clutch.

chuck's_srt-4 · 10-24-2006, 08:39 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by FYX193

Build Date: Sept. 2003
Miles: ~67K
Clutch: ~47K mile old Mopar Performance Clutch
Broke while driving normally and shifting into 3rd gear.

I'm not 100% sure if mine broke or not... I was experiencing a whining noise while in nutural and if I depressed the clutch peddle it stopped. If I was in gear and driving it was whining faster and faster until I approached 2500rpm when either the sound was gone or the motor/exhaust was louder than the sound.

Eventually the gears would make a loud Clunk sound when I engaged them, and then while driving normally on an uphill hwy off ramp I shifted into third gear and the clutch started to slip when a light throttle was applied. Then I heard a loud Bang and several clank...clank...clanks. The car started/ran fine, but the transmission would not engage any gears. I could freely move the shifter while the car was on without pressing the clutch peddle in, but the gears would not engage. If I put the clutch peddle in and tried to engage the gear, it would lock up and become extremely difficult to remove the gear.

When the service shop removed the transmission and inspected the damage, they couldn't tell me what happened to it. All they said was that alot of small pieces were tossed around inside the transmission and caused severe damage to the entire transmission & clutch. The inner housing was severely gashed/cut from these pieces. I am going to be getting a new transmission under warranty, and I'll have to buy a new clutch to replace my Mopar Clutch.

Uuhhmmm, that doesn't sound like a very pleasent experience. It also doesn't sound like a broken input shaft. I would lean towards the modular clutch assembly possibly becoming detatched from the drive plate. That's actually something I've seen happen to my buddy's car, only we caught it before any of the bolts came completely out. All four of them were loose, though. Not a pretty picture. Good thing you're getting it all replaced under warrenty, though.

Now make sure to ask the dealership to locktite, and properly torque the flywheel bolts this time...LOL

FYX193 · 10-24-2006, 09:34 AM

I had this clutch installed by a stealership as well. Does nobody use locktite on the clutch install?

I've had the driveplate bolts back out and do similar damage in the past, now it's the flywheel bolts that backed out causing even more damage. I've had the dealership do all the transmission work on my car, and this is the crap I have to deal with. I guess that's why they finally decided to buy me a new transmission this time.

I am a total noobie when it comes to clutch/transmission work, but is there anything I can do to the new clutch before the dealership touches it to make sure it doesn't fall apart this time? (BTW, it's going to be a DCR Powershift Clutch) Or do I have to rely on them for a correct install? This fucking sucks donky balls that even a dealership cannot properly install a clutch... I will speak with the service tech and the service manager in person to make sure they properly torque and apply locktite to all the necessary bolts.

05boost · 11-13-2006, 10:34 AM

does anybody have a good replacement part for this yet. i am about to put a 50 trim on my car but it seems like this will destroy my trans. is their anything i can do to thr trans to strengthen it before i break it?

skidrunthunk4 · 12-17-2006, 12:23 PM

well your on the right track! anyone that knows anything about bearings know that needle bearings really suck. with that out the way, if those fail you can still drive but youll have problems. the more you drive more you break. sometimes more stuff breaks than others. every 850 ive torn down has alwayse had bad needle bearings in a gear. now, you add power, W.O.T. shifting and other harsh driving then those bad bearings now can turn into anything all the way up to a broken shaft or a cracked case. ive rebuilt over 15 srt-4 850s and it alwayse looks like driver abuse. why? cause the 850 is not a high performance tranny. it can handle power but its not for racing. you can pull a boat with the damn thing but you never know if it will make it another day at the track. mine, mine is fine. no problem , ever. yours well you just never know![/quote]

well what tranny should we be using if the 850's are no good for racing?!??!

skidrunthunk4 · 12-17-2006, 12:51 PM

A couple of weeks ago I broke my input shaft. I didn't know that was what's wrong with it because I had never experienced those symptoms before, I thought maybe my clutch cable was stretched but when the dodge dealership took down my tranny sure enough my input shaft was snapped in two!!! I'm wondering if I should halt on the install of a new input shaft and cryo the sunbtch first or if I should look for a new stronger race tranny altogether.

When the input shaft broke I was doing a WOT shift from 2nd to 3rd push 23lbs of boost.

Stage 3 trubo * other mods * , Clutchmaster Stage-6 Twin-Disc Clutch, 68k miles, 2003
Pushing about 380whp/405tq 23psi

What do u guys think?

WhatsADSM · 12-27-2006, 11:39 AM

Snapped my input shaft last tuesday. (at the dealer now)

Honestly not even full throttle and was lift shifting. All I did was basically lift shift fast from 2nd to 3rd.

3076r, highest dyno was like 420whp/425tq. Clutch masters S4 6-puck. 32,000 miles with about 24k of them with a big turbo and 16k of them on the new clutch.

aaronneon@RealTune · 12-27-2006, 11:45 PM

Just an FYI we are about 2-3 weeks from releasing the upgraded input shafts. Anyone interested shoot me a PM

phucough · 01-13-2007, 03:39 PM

Driving normal on the street(no boost)and shifted from 2nd to 3rd and broke it again.This one was Shot-peened/cryotreated(PWERKs S2).Only has a couple thousand miles on it.I guess this answers some questions about Cryo treating input shafts.

skidrunthunk4 · 01-13-2007, 04:46 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by phucough

Driving normal on the street(no boost)and shifted from 2nd to 3rd and broke it again.This one was Shot-peened/cryotreated(PWERKs S2).Only has a couple thousand miles on it.I guess this answers some questions about Cryo treating input shafts.

wow really?!?! I was thinking about getting the pwerks stage 2 tranny on my car but if it breaks just like the other one still maybe I should wait for Aarons new input shaft...?

phucough · 01-13-2007, 06:26 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by skidrunthunk4

Quote: Originally Posted by phucough

Driving normal on the street(no boost)and shifted from 2nd to 3rd and broke it again.This one was Shot-peened/cryotreated(PWERKs S2).Only has a couple thousand miles on it.I guess this answers some questions about Cryo treating input shafts.

wow really?!?! I was thinking about getting the pwerks stage 2 tranny on my car but if it breaks just like the other one still maybe I should wait for Aarons new input shaft...?

The rest of the tranny is great,no problems whatsoever.I dont know what kind of power you are making or what your goals are.My car makes 480/520 and I run it hard.

silver punisher · 01-13-2007, 07:44 PM

i have the pwerks tranny also.................
imo.....cryo treating works...............almost too well !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

i had a very harsh twin disc ( unsprung) clutch (rage tek)...........in a street driven car for 7k miles .........................

the input shaft took out (stripped) the teeth in both discs,....showing ZERO
wear on the input shaft !!! fyi......this was done w/ bfg drag radials.....

i'm switching to the more "street friendly" type DCR clutch !!!!!

skidrunthunk4 · 01-13-2007, 09:58 PM

wow strong tranny or not so strong tranny? its 3 to 1 now in favor of the strong tranny...