Have you actually tested this? I know Cooling mist sells it this way, but I think the pump might release some pressure when it shuts off.. You should buy a cap, and hook it up, do a WOT run, and see if the light stays on.
The pump does release pressure, but the switch is located between check valve and nozzle, its not between the pump and check valve. If I put my finger on the injection nozzle and activate the system, the other light stay on as the pressure bewteen check valve and nozzle is trapped..
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easier and cheaper way, tap the pressure switch on the pump. If you are past your 'trigger boost level' and the pump never cycles, its clogged.
If a hose pops off at the injector for example, the pump will still power up and trip the pressure switch even tho water is spraying on the ground.
The only way to make sure the system is working as designed is to put the pressure switch in the output hose right next to the injector. Set the pressure switch at say 22 psi and you know if there is pressure at the injector no hoses have poped off and water is indeed spraying in the motor.
Omniphil, I like the whole led idea. Looks like a bit of thought went into it.
The best way to check for a blockage is pressure. I think I would prefer a pressure gauge reading off the back side of the orfice (nozzle). once your system was tuned and you knew what the green zone was on your gauge you could detect a part cloged nozzle, blocked nozzle, leak, small leak.etc...
Yeah. Now I'm up to 2.5 cents. Sorry
3 cents... As so digital gauge guys/gals don't panic... Tempeture also has an effect on the size of a orfice. I never thought to applie this to WI But when diagnosing speed problems on cylinders and hydrosatic drives I always have to take into consideration temp of the system. In the cases above we use fixed orfices to meter velosity. You would think the pressure seen on the backside would be a constant with a fixed displacment pump, but it's not.
The resson is tempeture. as a orfice grows pressure on the backside reduces. Not sure if you would see these changes in WI. Maybe up here in the Northeast were a cold engine can be 20deg and a warm engine is 190deg????
Oh. And I only had a nickel. So I can't really afford to butt in anymore
If a hose pops off at the injector for example, the pump will still power up and trip the pressure switch even tho water is spraying on the ground.
The only way to make sure the system is working as designed is to put the pressure switch in the output hose right next to the injector. Set the pressure switch at say 22 psi and you know if there is pressure at the injector no hoses have poped off and water is indeed spraying in the motor.
oops forgot about that scenario
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Quote: Originally Posted by Dole Smelly
Just for the record, the torque setting for the oil drain plug is 20 ft-lbs, not infinity.
The pumps tend to free wheel when not on..The typical pump that is in most of these kits doesn't hold presure with out a check valve installed on the low presure side.
The pumps tend to free wheel when not on..The typical pump that is in most of these kits doesn't hold presure with out a check valve installed on the low presure side.
The SurFlo pump in my Cooling Mist system would hold full pressure for about 6 hours. After that it would slowly drop pressure till it settled around 25 psi of line pressure after about 3-4 days of sitting.
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Ok, So it looks like I have got my system working perfectly with minimal water lag. I put the check valve and "output" pressure sensor within 6 inches of the nozzle, system works quite well like this... Car sat all weekend and the initial boost run showed the the nozzle started producing water within 0.5 seconds, better than my old setup at 2 seconds.
The output hose does indeed leak water, so the idea is to minimize the water leakage, and to minimize the needed volume of water to get the system primed again to avoid the initial system lag when it has to refill the output hose.
My old system, the output hose was 4 feet, now its 6 inches. system works great now... Here's 3 pics of the pump, nozzle setup, and arming switch with diagnostic led's.
LED status indicator recap...
When you go WOT this is what the led's tell you...
1. pump led on + output led on = system is working.
2. pump led on + output led off = out of water or a hose came loose
3. pump led off + output led on = clogged nozzle (when you exit WOT the pump led turns off, if the output led stays on for a while something is wrong)
4. pump led off = wiring fault or pump bad
so why is this thread stickied? The first post is completely way off, and is not accurate to how a always primed solenoid driven alc kit runs on an SRT-4.. If anybody believes the first post, they should ride in my car with alc off, then again with alc on. Then we'lll talk.
This is a very good working conversation about water/alcohol injection where ideas and thoughts are actually put to work.
I stickied this thread because of what I mentioned, not many threads started have any good info.
This one has many Water/alcohol injection users working to create the perfect system that work on the SRT-4.
now have installed a 15-60 psi pressure switch set to 22psi, my boost will never trip the switch, but the water pressure will. Now I can really tell when water is spraying and if the system clogs or runs out of water.
This switch, is it the same pressure switch that they sell or do you have to use a switch that is made for water?
This switch, is it the same pressure switch that they sell or do you have to use a switch that is made for water?
xxx_srt
The problem I ran into was that cooling mists normal pressure switch was 4-15psi, and it triggers every time you go into boost, so you cant tell when the water is actually spraying, He actually had a couple 15-60psi switches, but it sounded like he wasn't getting more in. I snatched one up from him. He might still have some.. You defiantely need the high pressure one to be able to tell if your out of water and the system is working...
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Looks like a bit of thought went into it.
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