Try disconnecting the line on the pump outlet and activate the pump to see if water shoots out from the pump instantly...Quick and easy test to make sure the pump isn't causing a lag...
so why is this thread stickied? The first post is completely way off, and is not accurate to how a always primed solenoid driven alc kit runs on an SRT-4.. If anybody believes the first post, they should ride in my car with alc off, then again with alc on. Then we'lll talk.
so why is this thread stickied? The first post is completely way off, and is not accurate to how a always primed solenoid driven alc kit runs on an SRT-4.. If anybody believes the first post, they should ride in my car with alc off, then again with alc on. Then we'lll talk.
Because it is a working conversation of people who don't know everything.. and want to find the best way for this to work. Together everyone can get a better understanding of topics that one person can just reading a book. It is called topic discussion. This is one area of WI i have yet to see addressed it depth yet. There is one other thread about injector placement but doesn't talk about check valve placement or time for pressure build.
Randy
The nozzle should not be mounted before the intercooler because you can loose some of the effect of the cooling since you would be cooling the intercooler. Some one else mentioned some other reasons which is also true.
I don't know what to say about this thread since I can't replicate this 2 second delay omniphil is on about. I still maintain that if the system has no air leaks it should not be able to drain very easily...Especially with a check valve in line some where..Look at the size of the hole on the nozzle...if the nozzle is mounted below or level with the tank you might get some draining from the tank but the fluid would tend to stay in the line..
Try a little experiment with your straw in your drink...This is a very large hole in the end if you fill it with water and put your finger over the end it can maintain all of the water as long as the end is sealed. The size of our water lines in simular to that straw but the hole on the end is tiny.
There would have to be some sort of presure difference to push or pull the water..
One thing to do if you really want to prove this...buy a flow indicator from snow or cooling mist...You can then time the amount of wait between the first pump light coming on and the flow indicator light.
Try disconnecting the line on the pump outlet and activate the pump to see if water shoots out from the pump instantly...Quick and easy test to make sure the pump isn't causing a lag...
My pump does activate quickly, As soon as I ground the switch the pump fires up, But the 4 feet of empty hose has to be refilled, there by inducing the lag.
I just got back in from redoing my whole setup. The nozzle is now in the plastic pipe right next to the TIP hole and the Temp sensor. I moved the check valve about 6 inches from the injector, this will minimize my water loss and should produce good results.
Quote: Originally Posted by navysrt
so why is this thread stickied? The first post is completely way off, and is not accurate to how a always primed solenoid driven alc kit runs on an SRT-4.. If anybody believes the first post, they should ride in my car with alc off, then again with alc on. Then we'lll talk.
And to "navysrt", You should believe my original post because that is exactly what happens in my car, Maybe not yours, I bet you dont even know how much initial lag you have after you cars sits because you never checked. These are my observations, thats what the thread says, if your system works better then thats great, Mine does not. But, I would bet you have some water leaking as well and water lag when your car sits overnight as well, run the system with the car off after your car has sat overnight and see how long it take water to actually spray... (I think I just invented a new term - "water lag" lol) Your probably feeling power no doubt, but its after the system has primed.
Until you do that test you cant be sure.. On my car I want to be sure, that's me...
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One thing to do if you really want to prove this...buy a flow indicator from snow or cooling mist...You can then time the amount of wait between the first pump light coming on and the flow indicator light.
I was one of the first people to point out to cooling mist that the "flow indicator" does not work, Because on our cars, boost travels up the injector and trips the pressure switch prematurely. This gives a false indicator of the system actually working.
I now have installed a 15-60 psi pressure switch set to 22psi, my boost will never trip the switch, but the water pressure will. Now I can really tell when water is spraying and if the system clogs or runs out of water.
The PUMP! If the pump never cycles its stuck in off position. Simple.
Phil, I havee't installed the check valve that I mentioned, but your posts indicate you have one. I would use the sol, and then the valve. Put the vale right before the Nozzle.
Most of these guys have no idea that their system need times to pressurize. Esp if the solenoid or check valve is not close to the nozzle. I've had my home made system now for prob well over a year, and I did multiple tests prior to install. I wish I still had the video to show this 'lag'.
I use 3/8 CLEAR hose, from home deopt rated for 300PSI, you can see the blue fuild easily.
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Quote: Originally Posted by Dole Smelly
Just for the record, the torque setting for the oil drain plug is 20 ft-lbs, not infinity.
Because you will eventualy get condensation forming inside the intercooler. This in turn will end up as puddles of water in the intercooler. Can you imagine what would happen if big drops of water were to suddenly get sucked in? Not good.
Not only that, but alcohol is corrosive to aluminum. So, if yuo are spraying any alcohol then you're slowly eating away the intercooler from the inside out.
Now, if you were to spray before the turbo, that's another thing all together with LOTS of discussion needed in that area.
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1991 Cavalier Station Wagon - 3.2L cammed and turbocharged V6
Fastest privately owned/driven SRT-4 at NPR's road course during the 2004 SRT4 National Meet
The PUMP! If the pump never cycles its stuck in off position. Simple.
Phil, I havee't installed the check valve that I mentioned, but your posts indicate you have one. I would use the sol, and then the valve. Put the vale right before the Nozzle.
Most of these guys have no idea that their system need times to pressurize. Esp if the solenoid or check valve is not close to the nozzle. I've had my home made system now for prob well over a year, and I did multiple tests prior to install. I wish I still had the video to show this 'lag'.
I use 3/8 CLEAR hose, from home deopt rated for 300PSI, you can see the blue fuild easily.
I just redid my system, I put the check valve right next to the nozzle, it work much faster, it works like it should. It reacts very quickly now.
With thay device what would indicate a clog versus normal flow?
They sell pressure switches and this is how I use them to find out how the system is working..
You need a pressure switch and 2 led's (pump led and output led)
One led triggers off of the pump 12v wire, the other triggers off of a pressure switch that sits between the check valve/solenoid and the nozzle. IMPORTANT, the pressure switch must be set higher than the boost pressure you are running in the car, or boost instead of water pressure will trigger the switch under boost and give false readings.
When you go WOT this is what the led's tell you...
1. pump led on + output led on = system is working.
2. pump led on + output led off = out of water or a hose came loose
3. pump led off + output led on = clogged nozzle (when you exit WOT the pump led turns off, if the output led stays on for a while something is wrong)
4. pump led off = wiring fault or pump bad
3. pump led off + output led on = clogged nozzle (when you exit WOT the pump led turns off, if the output led stays on for a while something is wrong)
Have you actually tested this? I know Cooling mist sells it this way, but I think the pump might release some pressure when it shuts off.. You should buy a cap, and hook it up, do a WOT run, and see if the light stays on.
They sell pressure switches and this is how I use them to find out how the system is working..
You need a pressure switch and 2 led's (pump led and output led)
One led triggers off of the pump 12v wire, the other triggers off of a pressure switch that sits between the check valve/solenoid and the nozzle. IMPORTANT, the pressure switch must be set higher than the boost pressure you are running in the car, or boost instead of water pressure will trigger the switch under boost and give false readings.
When you go WOT this is what the led's tell you...
1. pump led on + output led on = system is working.
2. pump led on + output led off = out of water or a hose came loose
3. pump led off + output led on = clogged nozzle (when you exit WOT the pump led turns off, if the output led stays on for a while something is wrong)
4. pump led off = wiring fault or pump bad
easier and cheaper way, tap the pressure switch on the pump. If you are past your 'trigger boost level' and the pump never cycles, its clogged.
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