Water Injection Power Source - SRT Forums

hardcore · 05-31-2008, 07:29 PM

All, I have a coolingmist trunk mount kit and am working on the install.

Just wondering if there is a good 12V source to pull power from in the trunk. I can get power under the dash, but would like to avoid running wire that far if possible.

I also don't want to overload any circuits and do not know how much current the pump draws. I did notice that the power wire provided is only 18awg, so i don't think it will really be an issue.

Thanks.

Note: I don't have a the kicker sub wiring to pull from.(as talked about in another thread)

srt-sparkle · 06-01-2008, 12:10 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by hardcore

All, I have a coolingmist trunk mount kit and am working on the install.

Just wondering if there is a good 12V source to pull power from in the trunk. I can get power under the dash, but would like to avoid running wire that far if possible.

I also don't want to overload any circuits and do not know how much current the pump draws. I did notice that the power wire provided is only 18awg, so i don't think it will really be an issue.

Thanks.

Note: I don't have a the kicker sub wiring to pull from.(as talked about in another thread)

I ran the power wire from the blue wire/white stripe from the drivers side on the car just near the kickpanel that connects to wiring up the power to the toys for the mopar upgrade. It was safer than pluging up to some other shit. Better safe than sorry .

lyncoo · 06-01-2008, 12:28 AM

used the cig lighter

moparmansrt4 · 06-01-2008, 09:30 AM

I Came off of the battery,then through a fuse, to the pump, routed under the car next to the meth line, tied it up to the fuel line. then drilled a small hole under my spare and ran the wires and meth line out of the spare tire hole up to the pump.

hardcore · 06-01-2008, 12:00 PM

thanks for the help all.

Chino7385 · 06-01-2008, 03:58 PM

You want something that only gets 12v with the key on. Dont run it off the battery. I used a fuse holder. I cant remember what fuse slot i used but it was one that only got power with the key on. This is what it looks like:

Nelson · 06-01-2008, 04:22 PM

Is that one of the spare fuse slots?

moparmansrt4 · 06-01-2008, 06:04 PM

Oh yeah I forgot, I put an arming switch inline. One of the flip up red fighter jet ones. So i shut it off manually. I didn't want to run it during every day driving since I have a street tune on the d-tec and there is no need to waste meth.

**fr33fir3** · 06-01-2008, 06:19 PM

Make sure you read this..

Some New Install Tips

Its how I ran my power.. Works just fine.. And easy to tap. Plus its a 30 amp line.. plenty of power.

Remember when the pump turns on it can pull 20 amps..

Chino7385 · 06-01-2008, 07:01 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Nelson

Is that one of the spare fuse slots?

No, its in use.

Quote: Originally Posted by moparmansrt4

Oh yeah I forgot, I put an arming switch inline. One of the flip up red fighter jet ones. So i shut it off manually. I didn't want to run it during every day driving since I have a street tune on the d-tec and there is no need to waste meth.

That works. As long as it doesn't get voltage while the car is off you're good.

hardcore · 06-01-2008, 08:29 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by fr33fir3

Make sure you read this..

Some New Install Tips

Its how I ran my power.. Works just fine.. And easy to tap. Plus its a 30 amp line.. plenty of power.

Remember when the pump turns on it can pull 20 amps..

That's good info, but it worries me a bit.

The kit provided 18 awg power wire which isn't rated for any major current capacity. I wonder what the starting draw is versus the constant.

Drachonyx · 06-01-2008, 08:56 PM

My W/I system power source is coming from the PDC under the hood. The power is drawn directly from the battery to a 20 amp fuse. The fuse is connected to a relay like the FP relay. This relay is activated when the ignition is ON by using the same positive (+) activation source than the FP relay (red/blue wire). The power goes into the car using a 14 AWG wire (the blue wire in the picture below, but it's now hidden in split loom) that goes through the stock wiring grommet beneath the driver side strut. This wire is going to a 30AMP automotive relay that is activated by a switch to arm/dearm the system. Finally, there a wire going from the relay to my VariCool controller.

I think that's the cleanest way to do things. I did not want to connect to the blue/white wire of the interior fuse box and risk overloading the wires that are driving the cluster, air bags and other stuff...

I'm not that much knowledgeable in electrical stuff, but I don't think you should use 18 AWG wire to go to the trunk. I would use bigger wire like 14 AWG. The stock fuel pump wiring is 18 AWG and people are rewiring the pump to have a better power source. I guess the W/I would run into the same problems by using small wire. The VariCool controller is coming with a 15AMP fuse and it seems to be enough since my system is still working after 2 weeks.

**fr33fir3** · 06-02-2008, 08:45 PM

I do want to point out. DVLDOC made that tutorial if your not sure who he is.. He is the main dude for Devils Own Injection.. IMHOP the best meth kit period.

So if he says its a good spot I would listen. He has hundreds of installs under his belt.

FraziersSRT · 06-26-2008, 01:24 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Chino7385

You want something that only gets 12v with the key on. Dont run it off the battery. I used a fuse holder. I cant remember what fuse slot i used but it was one that only got power with the key on. This is what it looks like:

I used that same thing for my fog lights!! Lol.