Okay ive been looking at alot of threads and yet to really find some nice info on this. i have a stage 2 w/o toys, borla cat back,masd ign and wires, mm,cai, agp fmic, mbc holdin around 18psi. im gonna be gettin the devils own progressive kit and tryin to figure out if the nozzle should be befor or after the IAT. i know that if u put it befor u will get more timing but what does that mean performance wise. the same with it being after i know it wont add timing. thanks for any input im just tryin to actually understand what would happen from putting it in either place.
thanks i saw that thread but it doesnt answer my question im still trying to find out what the benefits are from having more timing compared to not having the timing. that thread was full of opinions and no facts. so if anyone else can help me it would be much appriciated.
Here you go, the same thing I PM'd ya just incase.
"Hey man, no problem, I think I saw your post earlier and will post the same response in it if I can find the thread so it will be on there too. Sorry was working on/still working on homework and didn't have a lot of time to jump in and see what the post was about.
Anyhow, I would recommend and I am sure most on here will recommed to place the injector prior to the IAT sensor. This way as the w/i cools the air flowing from the FMIC even more, the car will sense the drop in temp and will provide more power based on more oxygen in the same volume of air.
Now with running Meth mixed in (I use the yellow bottles of HEET = 99% Methanol), you will change the burning properties of the gas that is injected into your engine. This will slow the burn down, kind of like how higher octane gas burns and will provide additional timing advancement based on the slower burn.
Now if you have Toys option then you get the push the Timing Advancement thing a bit further than the guys that don't have HOM but the Meth should help reduce knock and allow more TA for more power.
I run straight meth to max out the power output from the engine and to reduce knock as much as possible. Some see good results from 50/50 or 60/40, 80/20, etc... The only thing to say is to try different mixtures and see how your car likes each mixture.
With more or less timing, hmmmmmmm, think of a a pedal on a bike. Ok, now if you bike really hard and then take your foot off the pedal it will still keep spinning. Now if you try to put your foot back on it and because it is spinning so fast you barely get your foot on it one time and barely get a push on it before it is revolving around again that is low timing. There is less push on the pedal to create force.
Now if you do the same scenario but as the pedal comes back up you mash your foot back on it and force it down with all your might, that is more timing advancement.
The more timing advancement the more force there is on the pistons forceing them down spinning the crank which powers your car forward. The less timing advancement you have, the less force on the pistons being forced down so less power going through the crank.
Now there is a catch with TA though.
With a smaller turbo, like our stocker, you kind of want to run a decent amount of boost, say about 18-20 psi, but get as much TA as you can without knock retard (KR) to create as much power as you can.
Now with a big turbo, they flow more air, which requires more fuel, which then creates a larger explosion creating more force down on the pistons turning your crank. because of the more air and fuel being forced in there, a bigger turbo does not need as much TA to create more power. It is recommended on big turbos to run lower TA for safety reasons and not blow the engine.
I typed this up while taking a break from my research and homework so hopefully I didn't rush it too much and not explain it well enough.
If you are looking to mount the injector, I mounted mine in the coupler coming from the FMIC to the coldside pipe, prior to the IAT. If you are going going to tap a hard pipe to fit it in then you won't have to worry about that. I didn't have a hole in my pipe for it so I just worked it through a tight hole in the coupler and tightened it down and put some thread locker on it.
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