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Old 08-16-2009, 05:16 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Meth not working again!

Like title says.My meth isnt working again.But to help you guys get a better understanding of it here's what happened.

I got rear ended a few months ago.Prior to taking my car to the shop i disconnected the 2 plugs on the meth pump and all the hoses so I can take the meth kit out and not leave it inside the trunk while the car was at the body shop.Got it back and just decided to put the meth back in.Connected the hose on,put the 2 plugs back on the pump and drove around a little so the system can prime.The controller is blinging rapadly when not in boost,and goes solid when in boost,but i start to knock.Didnt do that before.Im at 22* on 24psi and 60/40 meth.HELP!!

Fuel:dw750
Meth: CoolingMist VariCool 2 Kit
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Old 08-16-2009, 05:17 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Have you tested it? Tested it with the nozzle to see it spraying?
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Old 08-16-2009, 01:46 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by Adionik View Post
Have you tested it? Tested it with the nozzle to see it spraying?

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Old 08-16-2009, 02:30 PM   #4 (permalink)
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which kit?
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Old 08-16-2009, 08:33 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by turbojack View Post
which kit?

coolingmist kit..progressive controller


also when reseting parameters on the diablo,do i have to unplug battery to reset my fuel trims
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Old 08-16-2009, 08:50 PM   #6 (permalink)
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There's a check valve at the pump outlet on these kits. When the kit is empty or run to empty they need to be primed. Whats going on is you can hear the pump run and think things are a go but because the check valve is on the pump outlet the pump can not release trapped air to allow fluid to enter the pump.

Contact CM for instructions on how to get trapped air in the pump expelled so fluid can enter in from the tank.

For the future, you may want to learn how to get the system setup so you can manually trigger the system with key on and the engine off. This allows you to confirm things while in the garage. Also, you going to want to know how to do this to confirm the spray pattern coming out of the nozzles.
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Old 08-16-2009, 08:58 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by Xx_R/T_xX View Post
Like title says.My meth isnt working again.But to help you guys get a better understanding of it here's what happened.

I got rear ended a few months ago.Prior to taking my car to the shop i disconnected the 2 plugs on the meth pump and all the hoses so I can take the meth kit out and not leave it inside the trunk while the car was at the body shop.Got it back and just decided to put the meth back in.Connected the hose on,put the 2 plugs back on the pump and drove around a little so the system can prime.The controller is blinging rapadly when not in boost,and goes solid when in boost,but i start to knock.Didnt do that before.Im at 22* on 24psi and 60/40 meth.HELP!!

Fuel:dw750
Meth: CoolingMist VariCool 2 Kit

Just because you run out of water does not mean you have a priming problem. If your pump is gravity fed, you will not have a priming problem even with a checkvalve. If the pump is not gravity fed or is above the tank you certainly have a priming issue.

If you have not had a priming issue in the past I would say that is not your problem however if you have experienced this issue in the past I would bet that it is.

I have 3 likely choices:

1) priming problem
2) the electrical connections on the pump were not put together right or some other wiring issue
3) clogged nozzle (happens all the time, particulary when the kit is turned off for a while as sediments on the nozzle can harden and clog from the outside)

Its hard to say for sure where it is but the 3 most common issues are above.

For #1. here is how you test. Remove the nozzle from the car but leave it attached to the hose. Turn the key to the ON position. Take the pump black wire and ground it. Optionally you can put boost into the controller with a pump. while the green light is solid does the pump buzz? touch the pump. If it vibrates its not a clogged nozzle or an electrical problem and its either #1 a priming problem or the pump is bad.

If it makes a noise for the first split second and then shuts off and does nothing its a clog.

Let me know what you think.

CM
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Old 08-17-2009, 04:08 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by turbojack View Post
There's a check valve at the pump outlet on these kits. When the kit is empty or run to empty they need to be primed. Whats going on is you can hear the pump run and think things are a go but because the check valve is on the pump outlet the pump can not release trapped air to allow fluid to enter the pump.

Contact CM for instructions on how to get trapped air in the pump expelled so fluid can enter in from the tank.

For the future, you may want to learn how to get the system setup so you can manually trigger the system with key on and the engine off. This allows you to confirm things while in the garage. Also, you going to want to know how to do this to confirm the spray pattern coming out of the nozzles.

the nozzle has been removed from the line when i was cleaning out my cold side intercooler pipe,and meth came out of it.so im guessing theres some air in the system now?
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Old 08-17-2009, 04:14 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by Coolingmist View Post
Just because you run out of water does not mean you have a priming problem. If your pump is gravity fed, you will not have a priming problem even with a checkvalve. If the pump is not gravity fed or is above the tank you certainly have a priming issue.

If you have not had a priming issue in the past I would say that is not your problem however if you have experienced this issue in the past I would bet that it is.

I have 3 likely choices:

1) priming problem
2) the electrical connections on the pump were not put together right or some other wiring issue
3) clogged nozzle (happens all the time, particulary when the kit is turned off for a while as sediments on the nozzle can harden and clog from the outside)

Its hard to say for sure where it is but the 3 most common issues are above.

For #1. here is how you test. Remove the nozzle from the car but leave it attached to the hose. Turn the key to the ON position. Take the pump black wire and ground it. Optionally you can put boost into the controller with a pump. while the green light is solid does the pump buzz? touch the pump. If it vibrates its not a clogged nozzle or an electrical problem and its either #1 a priming problem or the pump is bad.

If it makes a noise for the first split second and then shuts off and does nothing its a clog.

Let me know what you think.

CM

can i have someone lay in the trunk while i drive around and go into boost so they can listen for vibs and buzzing
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Old 08-17-2009, 07:42 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by Xx_R/T_xX View Post
can i have someone lay in the trunk while i drive around and go into boost so they can listen for vibs and buzzing

you can activate the pump by grounding the black wire on the pump or pulling the vacuum line connected to the controller off and putting pressure into the line with an air compressor.

The best thing is to really test the system out. There's no getting around that.

test one, pull the nozzle out of the up pipe, ground the pump black wire, look for flow.

Test 2, if meth comes out, pay attention to how long it took to come out. If it takes a while, you might have a priming issue. If so, remove and clean your check valve. Reinstall, test again.

Test 3, if nothing comes out of the nozzle when grounding the black wire, you have a clog. Clean the nozzle(s) out, test again.

Thats it. Where do you have your check valve installed?
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Old 08-17-2009, 02:01 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by 04blusrt_4 View Post
you can activate the pump by grounding the black wire on the pump or pulling the vacuum line connected to the controller off and putting pressure into the line with an air compressor.

The best thing is to really test the system out. There's no getting around that.

test one, pull the nozzle out of the up pipe, ground the pump black wire, look for flow.

Test 2, if meth comes out, pay attention to how long it took to come out. If it takes a while, you might have a priming issue. If so, remove and clean your check valve. Reinstall, test again.

Test 3, if nothing comes out of the nozzle when grounding the black wire, you have a clog. Clean the nozzle(s) out, test again.

Thats it. Where do you have your check valve installed?

i only have 1 check valve and thats where the line connects to the tank..everything else is free flow
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Old 08-17-2009, 02:35 PM   #12 (permalink)
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if you have the checkvalve PRE PUMP, the system will never work, it must be AFTER the pump. not sure based on your description.

CM
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Old 08-17-2009, 03:11 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by Xx_R/T_xX View Post
i only have 1 check valve and thats where the line connects to the tank..everything else is free flow

Check valve is supposed to be inbetween the pump and the nozzle...not anwhere near the tank!
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Old 08-17-2009, 03:14 PM   #14 (permalink)
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he has a trunk mount kit, his wording is not good. He is saying tank to mean pump mounted on the tank, he has it in the location recommended by CM in the install instructions.

Personally i have mine about 3 inches from the nozzles, works better from priming.
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Old 08-17-2009, 08:49 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by Coolingmist View Post
if you have the checkvalve PRE PUMP, the system will never work, it must be AFTER the pump. not sure based on your description.

CM

pump-checkvalve-nozzle..thats how i have it setup.did it just like the instructions say
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