Hey guys, just curious on how everyone says "i tune my meth so that if it fails the motor is still ok" well my question is how?
to my knowledge as soon as you inject water or meth or a combo, the af's are gonna drop significantly...so when you tune it back to a safe af then its good...well now if the meth fails now youll have a unsafe af...
this is probably the only question i have left about meth/water injection
to my knowledge as soon as you inject water or meth or a combo, the af's are gonna drop significantly...so when you tune it back to a safe af then its good...well now if the meth fails now youll have a unsafe af...
In the case of a certain group that lives by denatured alcohol, its used to clear up a few hiccups in a tune or for added safety. They dont pull fuel to get the afr back up.
Before meth I was running 17psi and getting 1-3 counts of knock in upper rpm's. I couldnt figure it out, I had plenty of fuel.
Tossed in the meth and it cleaned it up. If I would have left my car alone at that point, my car would have been running meth without having to depend on it for safety since that little knock "isnt that bad".
Where as what I actually did was increased my boost to take advantage of the meth. Now if/when it fails, my afr goes alot leaner because I pulled fuel to compensate for the meth, and I get like 10 counts of knock.
Some groups just use water/meth injection for added safety in their tunes, if it fails its fine because they are just back to their aggressive tune.
Mine is tuned for a 11.5ish AFR and the timing is 29* on 100%, When it did not work that ONE time because I was a idiot and forgot to plug the power wire in lol. It knocked 5 counts and the AFR was in the high 12's. I noticed right away on my gauge so I let out and fixed it. NO big deal. If you monitor your car when going WOT its pretty easy to know when your car is not running on top of its game.
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AGP D44/DSP/Coolingmist Meth Addict
418whp/473wtq on pump and meth
i have a wideband & my scangauge should be here tomorrow...im just curious because i see people (Jannetty Racing) say all the time this is how they tune for meth...to me it doesnt make sense...
its like tuning for race gas and you accidentally put in pump gas...its gonna be bad on the motor no? and ill have my knock light set on the scangauge, but still im just saying i want to know the gist behind it...
When you go WOT just keep an eye on the AFRS if you don't already. I always have...that or the KR gauge. But for the most part it's a pretty solid system if you wire it up right.
I will say, don't play with the timing too much if you're worried about too aggressive of a tune.
im at 26psi,28* of timing and solid 11.3-11.5 afr,and 0 knock..when my meth isnt working,i see 12.1-12.5 afr,and 3-5 kr..car actually feels sluggish at that point and like kason said,if u knw how ur car goes when its running right,you will defenatly know when its not..
but if u wanna be on the safe side,get a failsafe kit from coolingmist,and the clog kit as well,that way if anything fails,you will be notified in time to let off the throttle and not mess up ur motor.
Just to add a bit from what I see, you can really do quite well with a moderate boost increase to take advantage of the methanol, without a huge jump in timing. If you do have any issues, its relatively easy on most setups to reduce the boost comparing to changing your timing advance numbers.
So essentially you can make relatively small changes to your AFR and timing and get the power with additonal boost.
I also agree with the idea of watching guages on general princpal. Fuel pumps fail, hoses blow off, shoot gaskets can wear down and allow oil into the combustion chamber and suddenly a no-knock tune starts knocking. With or without water/meth, a WB02 and a means of detecting knock are a good idea.
As far as tuning for water/methanol, its very very true that tuning for pure meth is different from 50/50. You are going to get more enrichment with pure meth, both because it's more fuel going in CC per CC, and because typically you will be injecting a larger volume of pure meth than you would pure water.
im at 26psi,28* of timing and solid 11.3-11.5 afr,and 0 knock..when my meth isnt working,i see 12.1-12.5 afr,and 3-5 kr..car actually feels sluggish at that point and like kason said,if u knw how ur car goes when its running right,you will defenatly know when its not..
but if u wanna be on the safe side,get a failsafe kit from coolingmist,and the clog kit as well,that way if anything fails,you will be notified in time to let off the throttle and not mess up ur motor.
Thanks for the plug
To the OP:
When you tune for meth you make the biggest gains, however if you run out of fluid, have a clog or other problem you run the risk of damaging your engine. Anytime you raise boost or do something to your vehicle that your engine cannot sustain with out the meth you run the risk of detonation in case of a failure. If you leave everything the same and run meth you dont run the risk of engine failure, but too much meth can cause a loss in power, so if not tuned or raising boost run lower meth, more water.
BTW, when you get the CMGS-FS or the VC2-FS you dont need the clog detector. the flow sensor and low level fluid switch will detect the following:
1) Low fluid in tank
2) Flowing less than expected
3) Flowing more than expected
4) Flowing when you should not be.
#1 is due to the low level fluid switch
#2 and #3 will include clog, hardware failure, hose popping off or any other problem.
#4 could potentilaly catch a possibly hydrolock situation. Would be extrememly rare for this event to occur but code is in place to warn of this.
CMGS gauge shows you your boost, flow, failsafe status and progressive control all at a glance.
yes, however you dont have to have it displaying. You can display ignition advance and engine load but set up the annunciator to light up when you go above 3kr. Just make sure that scan setting has KR scanning in the "background"
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coolingmist meth kit. BC3 cams.
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