I'm actually pretty pissed about my CoolingMist kit. I bought the trunk mount kit when the group-buy was out and I just installed it about a week ago.
This is part my own stupidity but the way the tank was sealed sucks. I should have filled it with water to see if there was any leaks before-hand, but I didn't.
Well anyway, after having problems hooking up the system because whoever made the piece didn't put the connectors on the right way and the unit was never getting solid power. Also, the tank began to leak from the hose connecting the pump to the tank. (I knew I should have zip-tied it) After that problem I filled the tank up again to find that it would leak from under the tank where the lower level wires come from.
All in all, I took the tank out and will probably seal all the leaks tomorrow. I'm just pissed that everytime I get in my car, I get high off the leaking alcohol.
I'm actually pretty pissed about my CoolingMist kit. I bought the trunk mount kit when the group-buy was out and I just installed it about a week ago.
This is part my own stupidity but the way the tank was sealed sucks. I should have filled it with water to see if there was any leaks before-hand, but I didn't.
Well anyway, after having problems hooking up the system because whoever made the piece didn't put the connectors on the right way and the unit was never getting solid power. Also, the tank began to leak from the hose connecting the pump to the tank. (I knew I should have zip-tied it) After that problem I filled the tank up again to find that it would leak from under the tank where the lower level wires come from.
All in all, I took the tank out and will probably seal all the leaks tomorrow. I'm just pissed that everytime I get in my car, I get high off the leaking alcohol.
We had an issue with the o-ring of the float switch during the time you purchased your kit. That is the reason for your leak. We do our absolute best to insure a product that is working correctly. Nothing is 100% and unfortunatly things happen that we cannot always control.
I am MORE than happy to have you send us the kit and have us fix it if you are having problems with it. Just let us know, we will fix it and get it back to you. If your ONLY problem right now is the float switch seal, email your name and address to us at info@coolingmist.com and I will send you the new oring. It will take you 10 seconds to fix. I am sorry for your issue.
I'm actually pretty pissed about my CoolingMist kit. I bought the trunk mount kit when the group-buy was out and I just installed it about a week ago.
This is part my own stupidity but the way the tank was sealed sucks. I should have filled it with water to see if there was any leaks before-hand, but I didn't.
Well anyway, after having problems hooking up the system because whoever made the piece didn't put the connectors on the right way and the unit was never getting solid power. Also, the tank began to leak from the hose connecting the pump to the tank. (I knew I should have zip-tied it) After that problem I filled the tank up again to find that it would leak from under the tank where the lower level wires come from.
All in all, I took the tank out and will probably seal all the leaks tomorrow. I'm just pissed that everytime I get in my car, I get high off the leaking alcohol.
We had an issue with the o-ring of the float switch during the time you purchased your kit. That is the reason for your leak. We do our absolute best to insure a product that is working correctly. Nothing is 100% and unfortunatly things happen that we cannot always control.
I am MORE than happy to have you send us the kit and have us fix it if you are having problems with it. Just let us know, we will fix it and get it back to you. If your ONLY problem right now is the float switch seal, email your name and address to us at info@coolingmist.com and I will send you the new oring. It will take you 10 seconds to fix. I am sorry for your issue.
David
It's not that big of a deal and I'm sorry I made it out to be. I will get an o-ring in the morning to seal it tight and I should be good to go. I mine as well epoxy seal it as well. I was just pissed because my car smells like alcohol.
Ok so I took the nut off the float to see if I could fix the problem no luck. I don't really want to epoxy the hole if I don't have to. How would I be able to get the o-ring off and put a new one on? Its kinda of a tight squeeze.
Ok so I took the nut off the float to see if I could fix the problem no luck. I don't really want to epoxy the hole if I don't have to. How would I be able to get the o-ring off and put a new one on? Its kinda of a tight squeeze.
You dont need to take the inside o-ring off. Just take the nut off, put the oring over the tube and put the nut back on. The oring will be on the outside of the tank, not inside.
Email your name and full address to us and I'll send you the oring out. Alternatively, you can send the unit back for me to take care of.
Sorry the first one was done from memory, I should have looked at my setup first.
i think thats 99% correct.
i think that the low level switch works totally independent of the pump (in your illustration it looks like its connected to the pump)
I'm not a huge electronics guy but have a question on the diagram now that I'm going through my install.
For the pump LED you tap in the LEDs + to the pump line, then ground the LED. Seems simple enough.
With the low level sensor there are two leads, both red, the diagram says to connect one to a ground, then the other one to a ground that the LED - grounds to? There are 2 grounds on that low level sensor? Can anyone confirm this is right cause I would have guessed it would be setup like it is with the pump???
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<-- 2007 coSRToc dyno competition winner, stock turbo class [298whp/344wtq] on 91 pump, 50/50 w/m, untuned stg1-->
The pump is not a "switch". All the low level fluid sensor is ..just a switch. Your LED has one wire that you give power to. The only thing the led needs now is a ground to activate. You connect one of the red wires to the ground side of the LED and ground the other. When there is water in the tank the circuit will be open. once the water drops the low level fluid switch will close the circuit and the LED will have a ground.
I understand the basic idea of water injection and I believe I'm a prime candidate for it. I live in the hot Florida weather and run 22 lbs of boost on the Enforcer 1 turbo (basically a stocker). I personally can tell a huge difference in performance on an 86 degree day compared to a 79. My question is, will water injection, once properly setup and tuned, return the lost power that the heat is robbing from me?
I just now started researching w/i but, are there any dyno graph's or post's of actual gains seen by w/i?
I'm having a hard time choosing between your trunk mount kit and a ported Ex. Mani.
Got a question...I just ordered the standard kit. So I went to the local chemical store and bought a jug of menthanol. Now I have some people telling me that I need the VP M1 brand,cause it has lubricants in it. That the kind I have doesn't have any,so it'll eat up the seals or something to that effect. Is there different types of methanol? They said I could add some top cylinder lube.....?
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PTP SUPER 60,55mm TB,INTERCOOLER &PIPE PACKAGE,FTM,STAGE III CLUTCH
ALL SUPPORTING MODS 1260cc's of meth...hell yea..I'm a meth head..
ENGINE...0.40 OVER WISECO,EAGLE RODS,NO BALANCE SHAFTS,PORTED HEAD,CAM GEARS & PULLIES TRADED IN FOR A '09 G8 GT
mods..just a few...12.7@107 on street tires...
The pump is not a "switch". All the low level fluid sensor is ..just a switch. Your LED has one wire that you give power to. The only thing the led needs now is a ground to activate. You connect one of the red wires to the ground side of the LED and ground the other. When there is water in the tank the circuit will be open. once the water drops the low level fluid switch will close the circuit and the LED will have a ground.
Simple as pancakes.
Pancakes aren't that simple, but I got it... will have everything hooked up today hopefully... may test the tank for leaks first, mine wasn't one with the leaky oring was it?
Got a question...I just ordered the standard kit. So I went to the local chemical store and bought a jug of menthanol. Now I have some people telling me that I need the VP M1 brand,cause it has lubricants in it. That the kind I have doesn't have any,so it'll eat up the seals or something to that effect. Is there different types of methanol? They said I could add some top cylinder lube.....?
You definately dont need any lubricants in the system. The seals are EPDM and methanol compatible.
I'm actually pretty pissed about my CoolingMist kit. I bought the trunk mount kit when the group-buy was out and I just installed it about a week ago.
This is part my own stupidity but the way the tank was sealed sucks. I should have filled it with water to see if there was any leaks before-hand, but I didn't.
Well anyway, after having problems hooking up the system because whoever made the piece didn't put the connectors on the right way and the unit was never getting solid power. Also, the tank began to leak from the hose connecting the pump to the tank. (I knew I should have zip-tied it) After that problem I filled the tank up again to find that it would leak from under the tank where the lower level wires come from.
All in all, I took the tank out and will probably seal all the leaks tomorrow. I'm just pissed that everytime I get in my car, I get high off the leaking alcohol.
I kinda feel the same way, just found out my new tank leaks at the low level wires also.
What connectors are you talking about in terms of power?
At first operation my pump spray LED is not coming on... I'll have to double check crap tomorrow or turn down boost input source in case it's set too high.
Last edited by parsonsproject : 06-05-2007 at 09:47 PM.
The float switch problems should be taken care of by now. If we continue to have problems, we will discontinue the float switch and not include it with the kit. its alot of work for us to install it, we include it in the kit because its nice to have.
We had problems with the O-Ring, the wrong one was sent and we didn't catch it. If you consider the large numbers of these we sell, its only a few that had this problem, but I consider it to un-acceptable. We are going to keep a close eye on this.
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