i dont understand how that can happen, when you tap it its a perfect connection. we dont sell bungs, so you need to source that outside of us.
if you have the 250 psi pump I would do the 380 CC (as it will flow about 500 CC). if you have the 150 psi pump I would do the 500 CC/M.
well i took the nozzle out atleast 6 times.the threads on the pipe got bad and didnt hold the nozzle in place,so it had some movement and eventually fell out
cant i use this one?1/8th NPT TAP..that is off your website and seems like it will work
tapped it directly into the aluminum intercooler pipe.guess im gonna have to get a bung and get it welded onto the intercooler pipe..also as far as damage goes,the check valve and part of the nozzle were dragged on the floor for about 10seconds..they still had some meth in them,but luckly i wasnt boosting.checkvalve and nozzle are totally destroyed from road rash.
i got lucky there wasnt any spark action from the checkvalve draggin on the floor or i would of been on fire
Im running mid 400whp.wat nozzle would work good for me.m5,m6, or m10?
and what bung do i need to order so i can weld it onto my agp intercooler pipe and than thread the nozzle in it
Your best solution is to retap the exisitng whole to 1/4 npt and put in a pipe plug to that hole, then drill a NEW hole in front of that (closer to the TB so its not in the path of the spray) and tap it to 1/8 npt for the new nozzle. This avoids any welding and retapping, aluminum is a botch to weld a bung to, FYI.
You can also buy the adapters Devils Own makes for a soft pipe install, it is a larger nut that will attach to the up pipe, with an O-ring would work fine on the aluminum. You have to redrill the hole larger, install the fitting, then a new nozzle will screw into the middle.
There is a chance your nozzle threads were the problem as they are made of brass and can wear out over time, prob faster than aluminum. Get a new nozzle and try to tighten it a little, if it still seems loose, then do what I said above.
Your best solution is to retap the exisitng whole to 1/4 npt and put in a pipe plug to that hole, then drill a NEW hole in front of that (closer to the TB so its not in the path of the spray) and tap it to 1/8 npt for the new nozzle. This avoids any welding and retapping, aluminum is a botch to weld a bung to, FYI.
You can also buy the adapters Devils Own makes for a soft pipe install, it is a larger nut that will attach to the up pipe, with an O-ring would work fine on the aluminum. You have to redrill the hole larger, install the fitting, then a new nozzle will screw into the middle.
There is a chance your nozzle threads were the problem as they are made of brass and can wear out over time, prob faster than aluminum. Get a new nozzle and try to tighten it a little, if it still seems loose, then do what I said above.
is the center hole for the devils own nut a 1/8th hole so the coolingmist injector can screw into it?
is the center hole for the devils own nut a 1/8th hole so the coolingmist injector can screw into it?
Yessir re bob I will warn, there is a chance that the meth will hit the inside of the fitting before it gets into the pipe, happened to me, not sure if it is due to the nozzle design or what.
well i took the nozzle out atleast 6 times.the threads on the pipe got bad and didnt hold the nozzle in place,so it had some movement and eventually fell out
cant i use this one?1/8th NPT TAP..that is off your website and seems like it will work
The tap will not tap your existing hole you will need to make a new one if you go that route. welding a bung on your existing one will make more sense.
Yessir re bob I will warn, there is a chance that the meth will hit the inside of the fitting before it gets into the pipe, happened to me, not sure if it is due to the nozzle design or what.
can these check valves go bad? Pretty sure it leaked meth over night, i started it up this morning and at idle was VERY rich, and took awhile to clear out. only thing i could think of is meth layin in my charge pipe and slowling suckin it up.... tune did not change... Anyone else ever have this??? I may just get a new check valve from ya dave.
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Built bottom end
strapped BC and CP
HTA 60
PTP when you fedex man gettin this block?
can these check valves go bad? Pretty sure it leaked meth over night, i started it up this morning and at idle was VERY rich, and took awhile to clear out. only thing i could think of is meth layin in my charge pipe and slowling suckin it up.... tune did not change... Anyone else ever have this??? I may just get a new check valve from ya dave.
test the checkvalve out..unscrew both ends and push the center part of the checkvalve and see if it moves in/out
can these check valves go bad? Pretty sure it leaked meth over night, i started it up this morning and at idle was VERY rich, and took awhile to clear out. only thing i could think of is meth layin in my charge pipe and slowling suckin it up.... tune did not change... Anyone else ever have this??? I may just get a new check valve from ya dave.
unless your checkvalve is pre 2007 you should have no issues with. We have had zero failures since then. All of the nickel plated ones are the new ones and all of the brass ones after 2007 are good as well.
If you have an air compressor here is a fun test.
Run the air compressore on the inlet of the valve. On the exit side of the valve put a tire pressure gauge on the outlet side. Turn the air compressor on. The tire pressure gauge should read "0" until the air compressor passes 22 PSI.
I am not sure if my pump or boost switch relay has failed. Any way to test either? I want to hook up direct power to the pump and see if it turns on, but obviously don't want to void my warranty or make the wrong connection and misdiagnose.
The pumps ground is good and the power source otherwise looks okay...can't find my test light though.
I am not sure if my pump or boost switch relay has failed. Any way to test either? I want to hook up direct power to the pump and see if it turns on, but obviously don't want to void my warranty or make the wrong connection and misdiagnose.
The pumps ground is good and the power source otherwise looks okay...can't find my test light though.
Touch the black wire at the pump to ground anywhere on the car. The pump should go on. The controller simply controls the ground to the pump, as long as the key is in the ON position, it always has a +12v supply.
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I will warn, there is a chance that the meth will hit the inside of the fitting before it gets into the pipe, happened to me, not sure if it is due to the nozzle design or what.
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