On raul-01's car we got a majority of the kit put in. We didn't get a change to connect the wires to the pump but they are wired next to it. The gauge is all powered up also.
We did notice a issue with the cmgs gauge, its manufactored backwards! The studs in the back are on top and bottom not on the sides like EVERY other gauge in the world. We did make it work, but didn't notice this til we had already removed the factory boost gauge.
Putting it in that location was a great idea, boost source is there. From his scan guage to the cmgs gauge there is about a 2-3psi difference between the two. The scan gauge reads higher, we take this is because the scangauge is at a closer source of boost vs the cmgs gauge has alot of line to run through.
Other then it seems like a nice kit and tons of extra stuff you can tinker around with.
On raul-01's car we got a majority of the kit put in. We didn't get a change to connect the wires to the pump but they are wired next to it. The gauge is all powered up also.
We did notice a issue with the cmgs gauge, its manufactored backwards! The studs in the back are on top and bottom not on the sides like EVERY other gauge in the world. We did make it work, but didn't notice this til we had already removed the factory boost gauge.
Putting it in that location was a great idea, boost source is there. From his scan guage to the cmgs gauge there is about a 2-3psi difference between the two. The scan gauge reads higher, we take this is because the scangauge is at a closer source of boost vs the cmgs gauge has alot of line to run through.
Other then it seems like a nice kit and tons of extra stuff you can tinker around with.
Thanks for the feedback. You are the first to comment on the stud location. Because of how small the circuit board is we had little room to put the 10 wires and airline. Our only other option is to bend the wires and put them all through the center of the gauge, however that would not be a good idea.
The solution we have should work fine in most cases.
I bought a kit off here that a member said was new. It all looked new in the bags still and everything but upon further inspection its an older version. Its the underhood basic kit with no tank and boost switch. It doesnt have the black pump its just the metal colored and the nozzle is brass that screws on the inside. My question is what is the psi rating on that pump and what is the nozzle size that came with it? Just wondering because when I first hooked it up it was working great no knock at all and then I upped the boost a bit and put the timing back that I had to pull before and now its knocking a bit so Im thinking I need a bigger nozzle or maybe upgrade my pump??
I bought a kit off here that a member said was new. It all looked new in the bags still and everything but upon further inspection its an older version. Its the underhood basic kit with no tank and boost switch. It doesnt have the black pump its just the metal colored and the nozzle is brass that screws on the inside. My question is what is the psi rating on that pump and what is the nozzle size that came with it? Just wondering because when I first hooked it up it was working great no knock at all and then I upped the boost a bit and put the timing back that I had to pull before and now its knocking a bit so Im thinking I need a bigger nozzle or maybe upgrade my pump??
the old siver pump can be 60, 100 or 150.
If it says "80-100" its 100 PSI. If there is a white sleeve between the shut off switch and the pump head its 150, otherwise its 60 psi. That kit was from 2004-2005. I cant tell you what the nozzle size is. That kit does not share a single component with our new kits, from the pump, boost switch, fittings and injector its all changed.
if your pump is 60 or 100 psi you can upgrade to the 150 psi pump, you cant upgrade to the 250 without changing the hose or fittings to our new stuff.
Hmm this is what the pump looks like im guessing it a 60psi and it wouldve been cheaper to just buy your basic 200 dollar kit then to buy this then upgrade lol
I have a stage 3 with a 47 wheel upgrade, I just installed my Progressive controler (Varicool the new one) trunkmount, I have the injector installed on the intercooler end tank.
I want to hold HOM what mix do you recomend? 50-50? 80-20?
I have a stage 3 with a 47 wheel upgrade, I just installed my Progressive controler (Varicool the new one) trunkmount, I have the injector installed on the intercooler end tank.
I want to hold HOM what mix do you recomend? 50-50? 80-20?
Thanks
start with a 50/50 and if that holds your good, if not you will need to add more until it holds.
start with a 50/50 and if that holds your good, if not you will need to add more until it holds.
You may want to integrate TPS as well.
CM
Thanks, I have TPS and boost input (varicool II), for the 50/50 mix, should I use this chart? (that was posted here some time ago) or just add half water and half meth?
I have the 1.5 gallon trunkmount, just trying to figure out how much of each shoud I use
Also Is battery water OK to use? I think it is free of metal, like distilled, But I'm not sure
Any tips on getting the fitting to the plastic tanks to seal well? We spent like over an hour trying to get it to stop leaking. We used teflon tape too. Ended up going to the hardware store and got a 90 degree 1/8npt with an o-ring. Everything was fine, no leaks. Then I noticed there was a drop around the o-ring today.
Also, where do you recommend to tap on the underhood tank? We tapped on the bottom in the middle. (Circle thing) Seems to be thicker right there.
Pict of setup. ^
For the tank, you can tap anywhere on the bottom. If you dont make the hole to big and then thread the fitting in, it will not leak. If the hole is to big, it will leak you will then need silicon glue or JB weld or some sort of teflon tape.
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