I would not. some think its better. I think its a waste of money. 2 M5s flow identical to a single M10. I would not do it unless you have money to waste to try it. our older S3 HOM kits had 2 M5s but that was to put one prior to the IAT sensor.
Weird, I would have just hunted down a 3 gallon tank and tapped into it with your kit. Kind of defeats the compact design of having the tank sit around the pump
I know it's probably in here somewhere, but 53 pages is a lot to sift through.
I purchased this kit 1-2 months ago, Coolingmist Water Injection, alcohol injection and Methanol Injection systems, and have everything hooked up except the hose going from the pump to the coldside pipe, and the small group of wires (22 gauge if I remember right) right below the ones powering the pump and the progressive unit. I have a couple questions regarding the install...
In the pdf instruction I downloaded from the coolingmist website it says that for the srt specific that it runs off of 0-5 V and boost. I have it tapped into boost line already (used the vacuum line going to the gauge), but still have yet to utilize the 0-5 v. Which one does the 22 gauge blue wire tap into on the throttle body? The instructions seemed kind of ambiguous on this detail.
What 22 gauge wires are needed for everything to work properly? From the looks, a lot of it are just auxiliry inputs like the flow sensor, is this correct?
and go to 4:1 and see how to configure the unit. You will want to set the injection mode to combined mode. The small blue wire would then connect to the TPS sensor.
Also, you need to set the VC2 trunkmount for 2D MODE. Set the TPS for about 2.7 V on the MIN and 4 V on the MAX.
SRT-4s only see about 3.8 volts max, if I did that, it would never see 100% duty cycle. Question for you, I heard our cars enter open loop at 2.7 volts. I set mine up for min at 2.7 volts and max at 2.7 volts. I set the min boost pressure to 6 and max boost pressure to 25. With those settings it should basically inject progressive based on boost right? But only when at WOT. In other words, its okay to set both min and max TPS voltage to 2.7?
Okay... I purchased the Cool150 kit a little over a month ago, and finally got around to installing it last night. When I got to the part where you test the setup by moving the wire to the other side of the boost switch, the first thing that happened was water was leaking pretty strong out of the fitting just before the check valve (which was installed in the right direction, by the way). So basically, it wasn't going through the check valve. I have no idea how strong that check valve is supposed to be, but it does move when I push on it with a screwdriver. I tried the check valve a second time, and this time the hose before it was on tight enough that nothing came out anywhere, including after the check valve. Anyway, I tried it without the check valve, and it worked, but I'm not sure how strong it's supposed to shoot out. I mean, it pours out, but not as strong as I thought it might. Anyway, I hooked it up temporarily without the check valve, so I could get home, and did some WOT pulls, and didn't really notice a difference (and I'm using 100% meth). This morning, when I went to start the car, it would barely idle, and kept pulling up a blinking CEL while idling roughly, and at a lower than normal idle RPM (around 600). Unfortunately, even with the Diablosport Predator connected, the CEL would come and go so fast, it wouldn't log anything. Eventually, the car went back to running fine, but since I've done nothing to the car other than install this kit, it must be somehow related to the kit (leaking meth into the cold side pipe?)
Sorry for the ridiculously long post, but my question is: is there something wrong with the check valve, or is the pump not strong enough? Kinda frustrated at the moment...
SRT-4s only see about 3.8 volts max, if I did that, it would never see 100% duty cycle. Question for you, I heard our cars enter open loop at 2.7 volts. I set mine up for min at 2.7 volts and max at 2.7 volts. I set the min boost pressure to 6 and max boost pressure to 25. With those settings it should basically inject progressive based on boost right? But only when at WOT. In other words, its okay to set both min and max TPS voltage to 2.7?
by doing that you use voltage as a threshold and use boost as the injection curve. That is how the original HOM kits work. That is fine as well.
Okay... I purchased the Cool150 kit a little over a month ago, and finally got around to installing it last night. When I got to the part where you test the setup by moving the wire to the other side of the boost switch, the first thing that happened was water was leaking pretty strong out of the fitting just before the check valve (which was installed in the right direction, by the way). So basically, it wasn't going through the check valve. I have no idea how strong that check valve is supposed to be, but it does move when I push on it with a screwdriver. I tried the check valve a second time, and this time the hose before it was on tight enough that nothing came out anywhere, including after the check valve. Anyway, I tried it without the check valve, and it worked, but I'm not sure how strong it's supposed to shoot out. I mean, it pours out, but not as strong as I thought it might. Anyway, I hooked it up temporarily without the check valve, so I could get home, and did some WOT pulls, and didn't really notice a difference (and I'm using 100% meth). This morning, when I went to start the car, it would barely idle, and kept pulling up a blinking CEL while idling roughly, and at a lower than normal idle RPM (around 600). Unfortunately, even with the Diablosport Predator connected, the CEL would come and go so fast, it wouldn't log anything. Eventually, the car went back to running fine, but since I've done nothing to the car other than install this kit, it must be somehow related to the kit (leaking meth into the cold side pipe?)
Sorry for the ridiculously long post, but my question is: is there something wrong with the check valve, or is the pump not strong enough? Kinda frustrated at the moment...
The purpose of the checkvalve is to prevent water from being sucked into the engine. You should never, ever install the kit without the checkvalve or solenoid. This is why your engine almost died, vacuum pulled water from the tank into the engine because there was no checkvalve installed. Disable the kit until you get a checkvalve.
having said that you will need a new checkvalve. email us at info@Coolingmist.com so we can give you instructions to send the checkvalve to us so we can test and replace. Do not run your kit until this is resolved. I have not seen this with any checkvalve so far so this will be interesting. i will need your full name so i can look your order up in our system.
What are the performance differences between using denatured alcohol compared to methanol? Doesn't one have a little higher octane rating than the other or something?
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
Linear Mode
