What kind of success have your customers had with s3 HOM without tuning?
Seems like w/i would be hard to master with an untuned stage 3, for one they run to rich to begin with, two if I turn up the boost real high to make it lean enough injector pulse widths go over 100%, or atleast i'm pretty sure they will. Three, the higher boost means higher octane needs.
the S3HOM is designed to inject based on TPS and boost, so you need to be at 2/3 throttle (adjustable by user if you want to turn on later) and then it injects progressively. This would prevent too much flow at low throttle situations.
We have had many customers run this kit just about everyone on 93 octain can hold HOM and many on 91 can.
I just got my basic kit yesterday, and thought I'd be installing it, but found if I'm going to put the nozzle in 1-2" before the IAT sensor, I'm in the rubber hose section. I have all stock connections there, so I'm not sure what's the best solution for this. I don't really want to have to spend approximately $200 for hard pipes at the moment...
...Also, for anyone else that's tapped into the windshield wiper fluid tank, what's the best way to get to it without a lift? Am I going to have to take apart my car just to see it?
I just got my basic kit yesterday, and thought I'd be installing it, but found if I'm going to put the nozzle in 1-2" before the IAT sensor, I'm in the rubber hose section. I have all stock connections there, so I'm not sure what's the best solution for this. I don't really want to have to spend approximately $200 for hard pipes at the moment...
You have other choices but putting them right before the sensor is your best bet. If you want to put it there then you'll have to tap the piping. I have hardpipes on that side but I dont see why you cudn't do the same for the stock pipe. But for the best option getting some hardpipes is the best, especially down the road with bigger applications. I dont know if the rubber can withstand it or not.
Quote: Originally Posted by RaggedEdge
...Also, for anyone else that's tapped into the windshield wiper fluid tank, what's the best way to get to it without a lift? Am I going to have to take apart my car just to see it?
The washer fluid tank is on the passenger side behind the bumper. The bumper is fairly easy but if can just jack the car up that easier. I don't have the engine mount system so I don't know how they want you to use tank.
I just got my basic kit yesterday, and thought I'd be installing it, but found if I'm going to put the nozzle in 1-2" before the IAT sensor, I'm in the rubber hose section. I have all stock connections there, so I'm not sure what's the best solution for this. I don't really want to have to spend approximately $200 for hard pipes at the moment...
I placed mine in the center hard plastic section of the stock coldside pipe. It's pretty thick plastic, I haven't had any leaks or problems. Unfortunately it's pretty much in the same location as the IAT sensor but i've still noticed a lot of gains
...Also, for anyone else that's tapped into the windshield wiper fluid tank, what's the best way to get to it without a lift? Am I going to have to take apart my car just to see it?
Just take the front bumper off..... I put my pump right above the tank and moved the horn. that way its all together. Tapping the stock tank is EASY.
Also I have my nozzle directly across from the IAT sensor. Its doing WELL. I am running a 27psi spike on a big turbo with no knock and alot of timing lol
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I just got my basic kit yesterday, and thought I'd be installing it, but found if I'm going to put the nozzle in 1-2" before the IAT sensor, I'm in the rubber hose section. I have all stock connections there, so I'm not sure what's the best solution for this. I don't really want to have to spend approximately $200 for hard pipes at the moment...
If you must use the rubber hose you can use an a silicon hose adapter or a simple 1/8th NPT threaded washer on the injector.
I would put the flow sensor at the nozzle, but if you want to move it you need to do the following (just fill in the blanks).
Remove your nozzle from the pipe but leave it on the hose.
give power to the system and make it inject
with the flow sensor where you want it, just flow for 1 minute in a container
measure the cc/m.
Flow it again but look at the gauge this time to see what the cc/m is. If its close to what you counted in the bucket you are fine. Otherwise....
the gauge allows you to change the pulses per liter. Its set at 220, you can adjust as low as 170. You need to change the 220 number to a new number, save the configuration and repeat the test until you get the expected flow rate.
Once you get it right, you do not need to re-calibrate unless you move the flow sensor again.
CM
Okay David, I got my kit pretty much installed (after spending about 3-4 hours on making a clean wiring harness), and I think it's working pretty well, but I'm still a bit lost about the conversion factor here to know how to adjust my flow gauge. . .
Currently I'm getting about 370cc/minute through the smaller nozzle, and the gauge is reading 500-600cc.
I'll look around on your website and see if I can find a reference to help me out, but if you could explain the math a little (and how to get into the function of the gauge to make the adjustment), I'd appreciate it!
Okay David, I got my kit pretty much installed (after spending about 3-4 hours on making a clean wiring harness), and I think it's working pretty well, but I'm still a bit lost about the conversion factor here to know how to adjust my flow gauge. . .
Currently I'm getting about 370cc/minute through the smaller nozzle, and the gauge is reading 500-600cc.
I'll look around on your website and see if I can find a reference to help me out, but if you could explain the math a little (and how to get into the function of the gauge to make the adjustment), I'd appreciate it!
Thanks,
Thad
Since you are not putting the flow sensor at the nozzle you need to calibrate it to get proper reading.
Turn the MIN and MAX to 1 with the power on. Watch this video.
You use the MAX to select configuration param and the MIN to set the value. if you are not going to change a value you need to go directly to the configuration setting you are going to set without stopping.
Flow Input Calibration. (6 bars)
The Flow Input Pulse/Liter parameter can be adjusted to calibrate a Flow Sensor.The Flow Input Pulse/Liter parameter can be adjusted from 170 – 270. The parameter represents 1/100 of the actual value. 170 = 17000 pulses/liter and 270 =27000 pulses/liter. The default value is 22000 pulses/liter, 220 is displayed on the 3 digit display during configuration as the default. The further from the injector the flow sensor is, the more calibration you may need.
you will have to try different numbers until you get the system calibrated.
you will need to save your settings prior to testing.
With it set to 270 I am right in the ballpark of perfect. I've got a tiny leak on the outlet side of the flow sensor, so I suppose that could be exacerbating the problem, and will probably be worse if anything when I've got actual boost in the system, but I'm not worried about it. Everything is looking GREAT!
I've got some on there, but I guess I must have been a bit too sparing in its application on that side. I'll take another crack at it, do one more test, and hopefully start buttoning this project up! I can't wait to get tuning with the water/alky flowing! ! ! !
I have another question David, do you guys have a gauge or know of a gauge that will work with the trunkmount standard. I have the kill switch and red led that works great but I was wondering if there was something more informative that I cud install.
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