I'm about to do the install today and I had another qustion, can the boost switch for my standard trunkmount be relocated? I need to know how much line I'll need for the boost. Thanks!
I'm about to do the install today and I had another qustion, can the boost switch for my standard trunkmount be relocated? I need to know how much line I'll need for the boost. Thanks!
You can separate the boost switch for the pump and install it where you want. For example, in my first setup I installed the tank into the trunk and the boost switch was connected with a "T" fitting to the boost line that goes to the factory boost gauge (you can reach the hose at the left of the clutch pedal, under the dashboard, it's a white line). Then, all you need to do is use enough wire to go from the switch to your tank. IMO, I prefer this than having a boost line that goes through all the length of the car.
Last edited by Drachonyx : 07-22-2009 at 04:51 PM.
Reason: Typo
I've been working on my install again yesterday, and it seems like the best physical configuration I can work out is:
pump>flow valve>solenoid>nozzle
All of the hoses are very short this way, and the install is pretty clean (by my hack standards anyway).
So, my question is whether there will be any significant problems from having the flow valve closer to the pump rather than closer to the nozzle. Obviously it adds two hose to solenoid fittings after the flow valve, but if one of them was to start leaking a lot, the flow valve would show an abnormally high amount of flow. Am I missing anything?
if you put the flow sensor at the pump instead of next to the injector you will need to calibrate it as the flow display will be off. You will have to flow it into a bucket for a minute and count the CC, then change the pulses per liter (defaults to 220) in the config setup and test until you get an accurate reading.
Why is that, because the flow through the solenoid will diminish the flow at the nozzle?
Is the recalibrating hard, or will I understand it when I do it? By the way, you mean to flow it into the measuring vessel through the solenoid and nozzle, or just through the solenoid and open tubing (no nozzle)?
I would put the flow sensor at the nozzle, but if you want to move it you need to do the following (just fill in the blanks).
Remove your nozzle from the pipe but leave it on the hose.
give power to the system and make it inject
with the flow sensor where you want it, just flow for 1 minute in a container
measure the cc/m.
Flow it again but look at the gauge this time to see what the cc/m is. If its close to what you counted in the bucket you are fine. Otherwise....
the gauge allows you to change the pulses per liter. Its set at 220, you can adjust as low as 170. You need to change the 220 number to a new number, save the configuration and repeat the test until you get the expected flow rate.
Once you get it right, you do not need to re-calibrate unless you move the flow sensor again.
I would put the flow sensor at the nozzle, but if you want to move it you need to do the following (just fill in the blanks).
Remove your nozzle from the pipe but leave it on the hose.
give power to the system and make it inject
with the flow sensor where you want it, just flow for 1 minute in a container
measure the cc/m.
Flow it again but look at the gauge this time to see what the cc/m is. If its close to what you counted in the bucket you are fine. Otherwise....
the gauge allows you to change the pulses per liter. Its set at 220, you can adjust as low as 170. You need to change the 220 number to a new number, save the configuration and repeat the test until you get the expected flow rate.
Once you get it right, you do not need to re-calibrate unless you move the flow sensor again.
CM
Okay, thanks David. So what's the slickest way to make it inject? Can you turn it down to zero or something and just make is go full blast at atmospheric pressure?
Okay, thanks David. So what's the slickest way to make it inject? Can you turn it down to zero or something and just make is go full blast at atmospheric pressure?
ground the pump wire with the key turned or run boost into with air compressor.
One other thing, what are the tapped holes for in the trunkmount tank? At first I thought they would be for mounting the VC2 controller to the tank but they aren't spaced correctly. Would it be practical to mount the VC2 on the tank?
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