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Old 08-23-2009, 03:06 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default CMGS and VC2 Controller Tips and Tricks

COOLINGMIST CMGS / VC2
The CMGS/VC2 controllers were release in April of 2009 by Coolingmist. These were designed to be simple to use, high performance, cost effective and great looking. Nothing is more simple to use. The beauty of these controllers is that for the novice user you just install and go. It will inject based on boost and display boost. For the user that wants more control, you can program the controller. The best part? No laptop or computer required. Just navigate through the simple menus, make your choices and save the data to firmware. Nothing is easier.



Over the last few months we have had many customers upgrade a progressive controller from other companies to our CMGS and VC2 units. We have had some issues with improper installations. I would like to go over a few points to make clear how to integrate with an existing system.

Pump Installation:

Alot of progressive style controllers on the market have you ground the pump to the Chassis and the controller will then pulse the Positive wire of the pump (the red wire). If you have an existing system that is set up this way (either progressive or non progressive) you will need to re-wire the pump. With our Controller, we give 12 volts to the pump power and pulse the ground. This means you do not ground the pump independently of the controller. This is very important.

Solenoid Installation.

Just as important as the pump issue is the issue of installing a solenoid or checkvalve.
I have attached diagrams showing the CMGS with a solenoid as well as with a checkvalve for everyones reference. The VC2 wires identical.

Solenoid Install



checkvalve install



CONTROLLER STATUS INDICATION:

There are several manners to give you a visual indication of whats going on with your system.

1) Auxillary Input:
CMGS and VC2 have an Auxillary input wire, they also have an AUXILLARY output wire. When the input wire gets a ground signal it will light up the FAULT INPUT. Alot of customers use this input for a low fluid indication. Another thing you can do is have it light up when you reach your MIN/MAX settings. This costs nothing as its included with the kit. connect the 22 gauge green wire to the 22 gauge yellow wire and the fault will light up when you reach your MIN settings.

2) Pressure Switch Input:
If you have our status monitor or any pressure switch that can handle the pressure of our system, you can use this to ground the AUX input wire. this would be better than option #1 because it will tell you there is pressure in the line. you would have an idea whats going on. You will have a difficult time determing correct operation from a clog as pressure can exist with the absense of flow.

3) Flow sensor input.
You can order the CMGS/VC2 flow sensor. Connect the flow sensor red to power, black to ground and white to the CMGS/VC2 white wire. By default each bar on the CMGS/VC2 will represent 100 CC/M making a total of 1000 CC/M. if you are running more than that, you can change the CMGS so each bar equals 200 CC/M. lastly, you can change the 3 digit LED display to display flow instead of boost if you wish.

4) Float switch input.
If you are not going use the fault input to light up when you reach your MIN setting, you can use it to light up when you are low on fluid. Just wire according to the diagram. The 22 gauge green wire connects to one of the float switch wires and the other end of the float switch gets grounded.


BOOST GAUGE:


By default the CMGS is a boost gauge. It will display boost from 1 to 30 PSI in .1 increments. The gauge is very accurate and responds in real time. If you have a 52 MM boost gauge you can replace it with this. If you are attached to your boost gauge, you can program this controller to display dutycycle of the pump or a voltage source.

0-5V INPUT:

The CMGS/VC2 have a 0-5V input. With this you can choose to either inject based on the 0-5V source or inject based on boost or inject based on boost and 0-5V. By default the CMGS displays Boost however you can display the voltage or the multiplied value of the voltage. A video showing how we display voltage and make a multiplier and why you may or may not want to do that is here:

videos

Alot of SRT-4 will take the CMGS and make it inject based on boost and Throttle position. This will keep your computer from registering a rich condition at low throttle.

PROGRESSIVE or FIXED RATE.

For those that want the ultimate performance, you can set the MINIMUM and MAXIMUM values and inject progressively. This means your system will give more flow as your signal (boost usually) increases. This is the normal mode of operation. Some customers that are more old fashion and prefer a fixed rate system can either use a relay and allow the AUX output wire to activate the system OR they can set the MIN and MAX settings to the same and the system will turn on at 100% dutycycle.

CHANGING THE CURVE:

A nice feature is the ability to re-program the MIN and MAX dutycycles. In many cases you dont need to do this, however by changing these you can change the entire curve and lower the entire flow rate. For example, if you set the MIN dutycycle to 10% and the MAX dutycycle to 80% the controller will scale the PWM output from your 10% to the 80% over the MIN boost/MAX boost. This is great for fine tuning.

Setting the MAX dutycycle is to lower the overal flow rate as stated earlier, but the MIN dutycycle has a use as well. By default its set at 25%. Assume you are using a very large nozzle and dont like the atomization on the low end..the higher you set the MIN the more pressure the system will start with. This is never an issue with the 250 PSI pump however with a 150 PSI pump there are times setting the MIN dutycycle makes sense.

FLOW SENSOR CALIBRATION:

If you install the flow sensor at the nozzle as recommended you will not need to calibrate the CMGS. If you install the flow sensor at the pump or at another location you will need calibrate.

You can set the CMGS from 170 to 270 which represents 17,000 pulses per liter to 27,000 pulses per liter. You will have to flow test the unit for a minute and see how many CC are showing up on the screen and then compare to what is in the cup. Make adjustments on the CMGS and try again until you have it where you want it. remember, this only needs to be done if you install the flow sensor away from the inejctor and it only needs done 1 time.


10 second start up delay:

the system will not turn on during the initial 10 seconds of startup. During this time the screen is blank and the fault will flash. This is done for those that decide to inject in 0-5 volt mode. Some vehicles send an initialization voltage signal to maf/tps or other sensors when the car starts up. If we did not have this protection built in, those injecting based on voltage would notice the car would inject briefly at startup. This delay prevents that from happening.

REFERENCES:

see page 4:1-6 for programming options
http://www.coolingmist.com/instructions/cmgs.pdf

see videos of different setups here:
videos

Last edited by Coolingmist : 08-26-2009 at 06:49 PM.
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Old 08-23-2009, 06:50 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Got anything to convert a tach signal into a 0-5v output? I think it would compliment your setups nicely to have a boost vs rpm map capability.
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Old 08-23-2009, 07:01 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by guhfluh View Post
Got anything to convert a tach signal into a 0-5v output? I think it would compliment your setups nicely to have a boost vs rpm map capability.

you want it, we got it! our smart controller converts your rpm to a 0-5V. Infact there is a nice 8 X 8 grid if you want to integrate a 2nd input. If you use it with the CMGS the CMGS can send the boost to the smart controller as a 0-5V input and the smart controller can get the RPM and you can enter the data in the cells and create a nice 0-5V output to send the the CMGS.

We have had this ability for a long time.



Coolingmist Smart Controller

here is a nice RPM vs Boost MAP




Here is our technical guide:
http://www.coolingmist.com/instructi...ntechguide.pdf


If you want something with a full failsafe as part of a package we have one for only about $650. Includes smart controller, flow sensor, CMGS, injector, float switch, etc.

Coolingmist Water Injection, alcohol injection and Methanol Injection systems
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Old 08-26-2009, 09:53 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Any questions on how the CMGS/VC2 work or how they integrate into your system just let us know.

CM
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Old 08-26-2009, 09:56 PM   #5 (permalink)
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nice write up. cant wait to get mine up and running.

THANKS again for the sick kit.
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Old 08-27-2009, 09:03 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by mole' View Post
nice write up. cant wait to get mine up and running.

THANKS again for the sick kit.

No Thank you. What I have always said is that what our CUSTOMERS like you think is what matters to me. Our competitors can blast away with all the lies and mis-truths they want. At the end of the day we build our products for our customers which was built out of a passion for motorsports.

Thanks again your post made my day.

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Old 08-27-2009, 10:24 AM   #7 (permalink)
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You may want to include a write-up for those that are using the S-HSV (which you informed me is a solenoid, therefore no further solenoids/checkvalves are necessary), as the diagrams above are different from what we talked about. From what we discussed, and I hope I got correct, the wiring should be as follows:

Pump red (+) to the 12V power wire (12ga orange wire)
Pump black (-) to chassis ground
One set of S-HSV wires to the CMGS/VC2 (14ga red wire)
Other set of wires to the CMGS/VC2 (14ga green wire)
Everything else wired as shown above

That is correct, yes?

Thanks for all the assistance,
Dave

Last edited by whites97 : 08-27-2009 at 10:32 AM.
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Old 08-27-2009, 10:37 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by whites97 View Post
You may want to include a write-up for those that are using the S-HSV (which you informed me is a solenoid, therefore no further solenoids/checkvalves are necessary), as the diagrams above are different from what we talked about. From what we discussed, and I hope I got correct, the wiring should be as follows:

Pump red (+) to the 12V power wire (12ga orange wire)
Pump black (-) to chassis ground
One set of S-HSV wires to the CMGS/VC2 (14ga red wire)
Other set of wires to the CMGS/VC2 (14ga green wire)
Everything else wired as shown above

That is correct, yes?

Thanks for all the assistance,
Dave

yes. remember you take one wire from 1 S-HSV and 1 from the other when you make your sets of wire. Also, it wires identical to our original controller, there are no differences so you can look at the PDF that I sent you in the PM.

We never sold a CMGS kit with the s-hsv so its not something we made a diagram for.


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Old 08-27-2009, 10:41 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Oh, I understand, I just want anyone that purchases a used S-HSV or upgraded before installing the older components (like I did) that they get the wiring correct, that's all.
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Old 09-03-2009, 06:49 AM   #10 (permalink)
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So if I'm understanding the discussion of integrating an s-hsv into the CMGS system, you have the CMGS provide 12v to the pump that is chassis grounded (full pressure from pump at all times), and then you PWM the ground of the s-hsv at the same rate as the CMGS would have been PWM-ing the the pump ground with the standard wiring, correct?

That actually sounds like a pretty good setup, and also one that could be used with MS3 too. The CMGS could still be functioning as the boost gauge and flow gauge, and then the MS3 could be grounding the solenoid at the same rate as (albeit a different frequency than) the fuel injectors. I.e. a totally mapped, progressive system. . .

Yes, or no?

One additional question since you seem to be in the mood to type, why did you discontinue the s-hsv? Seemed like a good thing to have the competition in this segment of the market, so I'm guessing that maybe it just isn't feasible to make a long term water capable hsv for much less than what Aquamist is already doing?

And by the way, for anyone who might be wondering, I am not loyal to any brand of water injection manufacturer, but I am currently running a CMGS, and it is working great. I did a couple of runs last weekend in my full weight and stock bottome end '98 Neon ACR with spare tire and jack, etc. at 115mph traps. My plugs look perfect, with good distribution and everything. I'm satisfied!

Thad
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Old 09-03-2009, 07:33 AM   #11 (permalink)
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let me try to help.


Quote: Originally Posted by Tjabo View Post
So if I'm understanding the discussion of integrating an s-hsv into the CMGS system, you have the CMGS provide 12v to the pump that is chassis grounded (full pressure from pump at all times), and then you PWM the ground of the s-hsv at the same rate as the CMGS would have been PWM-ing the the pump ground with the standard wiring, correct?

No, thats not correct. Its important to note we have not dont much testing with running the S-HSV with the CMGS . The CMGS came out after we discontinued the S-HSV. It would wire identical to the original vari-cool s/SHV specs. Its a little complicated to go over on this thread.

Quote:

That actually sounds like a pretty good setup, and also one that could be used with MS3 too. The CMGS could still be functioning as the boost gauge and flow gauge, and then the MS3 could be grounding the solenoid at the same rate as (albeit a different frequency than) the fuel injectors. I.e. a totally mapped, progressive system. . .

Yes, or no?

You are welcome to use the CMGS as a boost/flow gauge.

Quote:

One additional question since you seem to be in the mood to type, why did you discontinue the s-hsv? Seemed like a good thing to have the competition in this segment of the market, so I'm guessing that maybe it just isn't feasible to make a long term water capable hsv for much less than what Aquamist is already doing?

The S-HSV was not profitable for us. For instance, when we sold the S-hsv as part of a kit it was $100 more. it cost us more than that for the part. Eventually we quit selling it as part of the kit and sold them individually. Since we were getting our new pump, new controllers it was time to discontinue.

The same company that made those for us (No, its NOT clippard) has a new valve that they are not selling to Clippard. This valve is interesting, it maxes at 200 PSI. Its taller than the S-HSV but thinner. It flows about 40% more. The response time however is slower. instead of 3 ms, its 10-12 MS. This still is very fast and would make a good solution. Its cost prohibitive however.

Quote:

And by the way, for anyone who might be wondering, I am not loyal to any brand of water injection manufacturer, but I am currently running a CMGS, and it is working great. I did a couple of runs last weekend in my full weight and stock bottome end '98 Neon ACR with spare tire and jack, etc. at 115mph traps. My plugs look perfect, with good distribution and everything. I'm satisfied!

Thad


Thanks Thad. Its good to see someone can enjoy the technology and be a true enthusiast. We need more people like you.

CM

Last edited by Coolingmist : 09-03-2009 at 06:11 PM.
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Old 09-03-2009, 05:09 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Thanks!

Oh, and by the way, that's a 2.0 liter. I'm not sure if everyone on here would know that! I'm getting antsy now to put the forged bottom end together and really let this turbo eat with the water/methanol injection, but so far that project keeps getting prioritized down the list. . . At least with the water/methanol I can have some fun with the stock motor (and cams) in the mean time.

Thad
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Old 09-09-2009, 01:20 PM   #13 (permalink)
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When you guys ground your flow sensor as the diagram shows we recommend you ground it to the battery directly. We have seen issues where customers ground to the chasis and have problems. Those issues were in vehicles that had battery in the trunk, but its a good standard to follow. If you have grounded the flow sensor to the chasis and are not having any issues you dont need to change your setup.

Speaking of flow sensors, starting today anyone that orders a CMGS or VC2 kit and orders the flow sensor will get a low level fluid switch and brass inline water filter free.

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Old 09-18-2009, 09:43 PM   #14 (permalink)
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prob a noob question but where do i tap for the TPS wire?

Also i would like to run a switch inline of the pump so i can know im 100% in control of the pump. Its a lighted switch so it has 3 prongs if it matters.

I have a CMGS stg2 with 250psi pump...
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Old 09-18-2009, 10:15 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by bribri View Post
prob a noob question but where do i tap for the TPS wire?

Also i would like to run a switch inline of the pump so i can know im 100% in control of the pump. Its a lighted switch so it has 3 prongs if it matters.

I have a CMGS stg2 with 250psi pump...

Connect your 0-5V TPS wire to the blue wire on cmgs. The large white plug on your Throttle body is where the TPS
wires can be found. You will want to strip shielding on the wires back a bit and locate the orange/blue wire. Splice the blue wire from the
cmgs to this and you are done. If you want to test it. Turn the key to run and connect the red lead from a multimeter to the orange/blue wire
and the black lead to a ground. Step on the gas and you should see the voltage go from near zero to around 4 volts or so. You will need to set the CMGS up to inject based on tps and boost.

To turn the system off turn the max lower than the min, the pump will never turn on. The pump is PWM, so you should not put any switch anywhere between the pump wires.

CM
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