I posted this in another thread , but then thought it was probably important enough to post here fresh .....
Well , well ..... The never ending debate that changes sides rather frequently. It seems that every time I check back in the W/I section , the general concensus has changed again.
A few months ago , people were just ranting about faulty soilenoid valves failing .... seemed that a good old fashioned , simple , and almost fool proof check valve was the preferred method for safety.
Now I check back , and people are talkinga bout pressure loss with check valves , check valves leaking , going bad , ect .....
What the fuck gives ? Is this the water injection , flavor of the month subject , or what ?
do you have the valve...curious who makes it and whether it is suitable for WAI purpose
can you post the brand or any inscription on the valve body?
Yep .... It was the sloenoid valve sold by Engine Runup ( used to be a vendor here ) , and that company bought their parts from Coolingmist at the time.
While it was indeed made for WI systems , it is a man made electronics piece , and anything like that CAN fail.
subscribed... i'm installing my w/i kit this weekend and i was going to install a checkvalve .... we'll see who says what in this thread
Nate .... feel free to contact me with ANY of your WI questions Bro. I've seen it ALL , and can tell you the do's and dont's from personal, first hand , SRT experience !
Sol is about the best your going to get for the money with a hobbs switch system.
Check valve is about the best for a basic progressive.
When selecting a check valve keep in mind low cracking pressure is good. there is no vacuum before you throttle plate unless your air filter is really really clogged. So your really only holding back a couple inches of water.
If you are a kit supplier/manufacturer I would think that the pump supplied with the kit would be enough to work the components.
Check valves are not bad. They just need to matched to the pump and desired expectations.
Also the variable that is often over looked when I read about Joe/Jane testing the hypertheorical flow through the check valve is the shut off switch on the surflow pump. This thing will bounce pressures from 150 to 125 with the nozzle alone. And you can watch the flow bounce in relation.
peace
Sol is about the best your going to get for the money with a hobbs switch system.
Check valve is about the best for a basic progressive.
When selecting a check valve keep in mind low cracking pressure is good. there is no vacuum before you throttle plate unless your air filter is really really clogged. So your really only holding back a couple inches of water.
If you are a kit supplier/manufacturer I would think that the pump supplied with the kit would be enough to work the components.
Check valves are not bad. They just need to matched to the pump and desired expectations.
Also the variable that is often over looked when I read about Joe/Jane testing the hypertheorical flow through the check valve is the shut off switch on the surflow pump. This thing will bounce pressures from 150 to 125 with the nozzle alone. And you can watch the flow bounce in relation.
peace
Ok ... This is what was throwing me then. I figured the vaccuum to be considerably more than just a couple of lbs before the throttle body. It really doesn't seem the cracking pressure would matter when it comes to flow , as long as it isn't so strong it has any kind of opening issues.
For example , the Coolingmist cv has a stated 22 lbs craking pressure. Once opened though , I would think it would flow the same as a check valve with only 5 lbs of craking pressure. Literally ANY check valve in line , has the potential to reduce flow some , but to any extent that it should matter , IF the pump is working correctly , it should NOT be an issue.
What speficifcally failed in your solenoid? The electronics?
Where was it mounted? Whats the temp tolerance of the solenoid?
Manufacturing flaws usually show up real quick in products. Exceeding operating range type of issues usually take a while longer.
__________________
Quote: Originally Posted by Dole Smelly
Just for the record, the torque setting for the oil drain plug is 20 ft-lbs, not infinity.
Sol is about the best your going to get for the money with a hobbs switch system.
Check valve is about the best for a basic progressive.
shouldnt it be more so the other way around...
Yeah. I can see the arguments for what your saying here. And at first I might even tend to agree, but here's my thought.
Hobbs activated; voltage from pump in series through a bank of relays. (Hobbs switch to 86 of pump relay 85 of pump relay to 86 of sol relay. 85 to ground...) hobbs switch closes boom everything comes on full bore.
With a progressive I would think the manufacturer would have taken into account the cracking pressure of the check valve, flow rate of the pump and had the preset for min voltage or duty cycle set to compensate.
The cracking pressure of the valve could be figured in as a given not a variable.
I'm sure these kits are not just pieced together without some bench testing and figuring. At least the names that have been around for a while. AQ, CM, SP, DO.... I could be wrong here.
Now a PWM valve on a progressive. That's just nice. Yet the cost could be just out of reach of some.
Peace
Sol is about the best your going to get for the money with a hobbs switch system.
Check valve is about the best for a basic progressive.
shouldnt it be more so the other way around...
Yeah. I can see the arguments for what your saying here. And at first I might even tend to agree, but here's my thought.
Hobbs activated; voltage from pump in series through a bank of relays. (Hobbs switch to 86 of pump relay 85 of pump relay to 86 of sol relay. 85 to ground...) hobbs switch closes boom everything comes on full bore.
With a progressive I would think the manufacturer would have taken into account the cracking pressure of the check valve, flow rate of the pump and had the preset for min voltage or duty cycle set to compensate.
The cracking pressure of the valve could be figured in as a given not a variable.
I'm sure these kits are not just pieced together without some bench testing and figuring. At least the names that have been around for a while. AQ, CM, SP, DO.... I could be wrong here.
Now a PWM valve on a progressive. That's just nice. Yet the cost could be just out of reach of some.
Peace
i have a progressive controller...i'll take it apart and we'll examine together what is inside.
Sol is about the best your going to get for the money with a hobbs switch system.
Check valve is about the best for a basic progressive.
shouldnt it be more so the other way around...
Yeah. I can see the arguments for what your saying here. And at first I might even tend to agree, but here's my thought.
Hobbs activated; voltage from pump in series through a bank of relays. (Hobbs switch to 86 of pump relay 85 of pump relay to 86 of sol relay. 85 to ground...) hobbs switch closes boom everything comes on full bore.
With a progressive I would think the manufacturer would have taken into account the cracking pressure of the check valve, flow rate of the pump and had the preset for min voltage or duty cycle set to compensate.
The cracking pressure of the valve could be figured in as a given not a variable.
I'm sure these kits are not just pieced together without some bench testing and figuring. At least the names that have been around for a while. AQ, CM, SP, DO.... I could be wrong here.
Now a PWM valve on a progressive. That's just nice. Yet the cost could be just out of reach of some.
Peace
Our Vari-Cool unit starts at 25% dutycycle, cracks the checkvalve just fine. Of course, hardware and other things can change, so thats one reason the MIN and MAX dutycyle can be changed from our software.
I will not mention names, but the largest manufacturer of methanol/water injection systems (you used to have a system from them) has a controller that starts at 10% dutycycle. Sadly, the pump will not even spin at that point. Just a faint HUM (and thats without a checkvavle). If you have your old controller, you may want to try it.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
Check valve vs. Solenoid debate .....
Linear Mode
