which is better, DVC-30 or CMGS-FS

[4drsportscar]

Im looking for a kit. I like the price of the Devilsown DVC-30 but the Coolingmist CMGS-FS does more. Which one is better?

[Monster]

Trying to start a vendor war? lol

[Coolingmist]

Quote: Originally Posted by 4drsportscar

Im looking for a kit. I like the price of the Devilsown DVC-30 but the Coolingmist CMGS-FS does more. Which one is better?

There is no comparison between these 2 products and there should not be based on the price difference. The other kit is a lower price, but the CMGS-FS is a better value (by a long shot).

you should base your decision on one question...Can you afford the CMGS-FS? Answer yes to that question and you should not even be considering the other kit. Answer NO to that question and you should settle for the other kit.

The CMGS-FS offers a complete system that actually tells you what is wrong and has a failsafe feature that could save your engine should you choose to use it. You will always see the flow rate with the CMGS-FS. You will always know exactly how much it flows, when it flows, you know when you are low on fluid, flowing too much and flowing too little. you can inject based on boost or boost and TPS. You can set the curve, as well as the failsafe windows. The enclosure for the CMGS-FS is entirely CNC aluminum and is truely a work of art. CMGS FS and VC2 systems have a digital display so you can set the start boost in .1 increments. No guessing like on other systems on the market.

In addition to all of that the CMGS-FS is a boost gauge. Our system is very clean and easy to install. My post is meant to be respectful as possible to the competing system but its not in the same class. We are not going to compete with that kit in terms of price, they are not going to compete with ours based on value. I would look long and hard to see what you need as a system and what your budget allows.

Looking at the entire picture makes the CMGS-FS difficult to ignore. I will be glad to answer any questions concerning any of our systems. Just ask away.


BTW, you will not be dissapointed in the customer service of either company you are looking at. You should base your decision on what features you want and how much you want to spend.







Lastly, if the $599.95 is too much to swing, compare the VC2 FS for only $499.95. or the stage 1 VC2 for $370 (no failsafe or flow feature).


CMGS FS only $599.95
CMGS FS






VC2 FS only $499.95
VC2 FS

[lyncoo]

devils own hands down. chance is awsome. call both companies you tell me who you would buy from.

[volkgt06]

I'm a fan of my aquamist kit.

[4drsportscar]

So how does the failsafe feature work?

[Coolingmist]

Quote: Originally Posted by 4drsportscar

So how does the failsafe feature work?

Its simple. you choose between boost, dutycycle or voltage as the threshold. In your case you may use boost. Lets say for example you set the boost threshold at 12.2 PSI (you can set it anywhere up to 30). Then you need to set the flow window. You set the MIN flow and the MAX flow. This means after 12 PSI you know you should be flowing within that range. lastly you set the failsafe output wire to normally open or normally closed. Normally open means the failsafe wire will be off until there is a problem, if there is a problem it turns on. Normally Closed means the failsafe wire is always on until there is a problem and it turns off.

even if you dont need to save your engine, the CMGS FS will tell you if the system is working correctly. That is something that cannot be stressed enough. It makes troubleshooting much easier and you know when things are working. Its like driving blind vs being able to see.

The failsafe will trip under the following conditions:

1) Low flow
2) High flow
3) Low fluid in the tank.

In addition, the CMGS FS/VC2 FS will flash on the screen "000" for low fluid, "001" for low flow, "002" for high flow. The high flow is important, for example if the hose pops off after the flow sensor the failsafe will catch it.

Some customers can interface with an ECU to put in limp mode, others can reduce timing, others will connect an electronic boost controller to the CMGS and when there is flow problem it turns it off and you go to wastegate pressure. Others use the CMGS to manipulate the wastegate solenoid. Some do nothing other than watch the screen for any error codes.

CM.

[hercfe]

coolingmist all the way! i've bought 2 kits from them now, and i would never choose another option.

[4drsportscar]

Looks and sounds cool! I have to get home to see the vid.

[lyncoo]

$500 for a meth kit lol

[chance@devilsown]

DevilsOwn does not sell flow sensor. I think they are a waste of money and more of a gimmick item. When is the last time you saw a flow sensor for the fuel system of a car. Injectors in cars get clogged too.... I think its a good idea but IMO sub 50 dollar flow sensors just are not accurate enough. I have $1,000 sucker for some of our in-house testing and boy its accurate. Can do some really cool stuff with it. But no ones going to want it once i mark it up and resell it.

There is flow sensor that sold that you can blow threw and trigger. I just quit messing with the idea of making this device awhile back and spend time on other items. We both have our own options on whats important and whats going to sell. Cm tends to spend more time on electronic items and gizmos. DevilsOwn tends to spend more time on hard parts and cnc items. I have a cad/cam background and i belive he has a programing background. Look at his website i believe he did that all from scratch.

With our DVC-30 if you can't tell we like to keep things simple. More complex things get the more issues you can have. Turn on point, Max progression knob. Float level sensor input. Thats about it for features. Just hook up a few wires and set it and go. Nothing complicated and easy to tune.

But with my background i have made parts like our nozzles. Notice the recessed dome that improves its performance and also the wrench flat for easy removal.


The filter on this is actually a protype. Should be out standard shortly.
Purpose built items like this to provide a leak free seal.


But a strong point for us is we race cars and we can help you tune your car and answer most anything you can throw at us. If you or anyone else have any questions feel free to call us. If anyone local or running threw stop by our new shop. We are here to help anyone out.

[lyncoo]

^^ ^^^^^^

[Coolingmist]

FYI,

For anyone interested in the facts about our flow sensor. Our flow sensor is very accurate. Its more accurate than what it needs to be. Its not a $50 flow sensor. Our flow sensor costs us far more than that even at 1,000 pieces at a time. Accuracy is within 3% of high reading. Anyone can flow test it and you will see how accurate it is. You can pay $1,000 for a more accurate flow sensor, but its over kill for what we do.

Also, while I am a programmer or ateast was for 10 years in silicon valley in the the late 90s, (thanks Chance for the kudos on the website) we dont focus on "GIMMICKS". There is no Gimmick with a flow sensor to show you your flow. We believe that function is most important. Every part of the kit is designed to be simple and all of the readings are important.

If you dont have a flow sensor based kit, you dont know if its working or not. Its a simple fact.

Also, We focus on designing our own products as much as possible. Our CMGS enclosures are all CNC machined and is our own design. Our trunkmount tank is also our specific tank that we designed as well as our CMGS/VC2/Vari-Cool/Smart controllers.

If someone decides they dont want a kit that has a flow sensor thats fine, but dont do it because someone implies that its not accurate, because ours is very accurate.

CM

[Coolingmist]

For those that want to see a quick overview here is a plot of the CMGS.

[dvldoc]

Here's a few questions you can ask yourself. How long does it take you go get into boost. Will one make measurable amount of HP over another? Will it make you faster in the 1/4? Do they do basically the same thing? How much flow difference over 3 to 5 seconds will one have vs the other and will it have any measurable effect? Is it more important to know if you have pressure or flow? is showing flow at 8gph 50cc/m x 10 bars 16gph 100cc/m X 10 bars or 200cc/m x 10 bars 32gph beneficial if your running 7gph or less? Or knowing your putting out at least 150psi of pressure at max boost? These are question just to ask yourself and make up your own mind.

Do you have any studies or testing done to show you that the fail safe is fast enough to stop you from popping a piston if your system stops working or should you tune safely enough that you won't grenade your engine if your kit is not on.

We also include a fault light and low level indicator, Plus you can adjust our on the fly without much distraction off the road. simply turn the knobs no sequences to mess with.

Our controller specs

Then the unit will read the dial settings and calculate the slope of the progressive control.

Map voltage is read and converted to a boost value
Pump duty cycle is calculated based on dial settings and slope

When boost PSI reaches the START setting the pump will come on with a 15% duty cycle
It will ramp up to 100% as boost approaches FULL setting.
The pump voltage percentage will increase with a 0.2 pound increase in boost.
This means the voltage will step up 5 times over an increase of 1 PSI making a very linear response curve

For ease of adjustment, each dial has 21 settings that are incremental
There is a setting for every hash mark and another setting in between each
Having the arrow close to a setting will provide the exact setting.

For example the 12 o'clock position on the START dial of a 2 BAR unit is a PSI setting of 7
It will also be a 7 if the arrow is 6 degrees to right (or left) of 12 o'clock
once it is beyond half way to the middle the setting will be 7.5PSI
This allows the user to easily set the unit to exact values without having to be fussy with the dial

For reference the Dial settings for each version are as follows:
If the FULL setting is set to a lower PSI than the START setting, the start setting will be ignored and the pump will switch on to 100% when PSI is above FULL setting and will switch off when it is below the FULL setting.

The controller will go into fault mode if the fault light will show within .01 seconds of any of these issues.

- excessive current draw
- fault in the pump circuit
- controller overheat
- pump wired incorrectly


It's all about personal choice so whatever price and options works best for you and how you vehicle is set up is what you should go with no matter which brand you go with.

That's just me.