so i decided that i'm going to make my own "homemade" return line...
so far all i have done is installed the feed portion of the return line into the canister.... opposed to making a fitting that would go in the feed tube i just drilled into the top of the canister and installed a bulkhead fitting with a -6an ontop so that the return line can run to the canister ...
also, this set-up was made for an 03 fuel rail, if you use a different rail you'll want to substitute the 18' line with a -6an to -6an line, -8an to -6an, etc. (whichever your rail uses)
so on with the pics....
stock canister, prior to drilling:
stock canister with hole for bulkhead fitting:
the key peices to the return in the canister:
fiittings installed:
another angle:
fuel line installed and clamped in:
notice, i zip tied it to keep it from moving around... which the zip ties should last in the fuel ... i've heard of others using them to secure the pump inside the canister especially with autoX where the pump can be tossed around (specifially with the bottleneck fix) ... anyways, here's the pic:
my parts list: (yes, theyre links so you can click them )
which would save you another $43.80 and would make the total $223.64
also, 1 additional item would be a fuel pressure gauge... i decided to go with an in-cabin electronic fuel pressure gauge but you can go with a mechanical gauge like this one:
here's a really simple MSPaint pic i made just to show exactly how the return-line is setup ... some people dont understand it, but i dont think it can get any simpler than this .......
FUCK, i just noticed i spelled schrader wrong ... oh well
also, you dont have to use the boost reference line ... you can run a static fuel pressure by not hooking up any line to the boost refernce nipple on the FPR - that's up to you and your setup
but if u were to use any line ideally you'd want to use the nipple off the coldside pipe bc you dont want your fuel pressure regulator (FPR) seeing any vacuum... you only want it to see boost
running the lines with the stock fuel feed line:
under the hood pics:
upclose of the fuel pressure regulator (FPR):
upclose of the fuel canister:
here's a brief explanation of what's going on under the hood:
stock fuel pressure regulator:
Last edited by uncommonŠ : 06-26-2007 at 05:10 PM.
question... will the clamp around the hose hold up in the fuel?
yes it will .... where i placed the fitting is right where you would place it if you were to do the bottlneck fix ... and you would use the same clamp there as the bottlneck fix
I think the last thread let everyone down b/c he never posted up his how to Fuel Return line length?
i'll finish up the rest of the how-to as soon as im done installing it ... i already know how to do it, i've done it before i just gotta take some pics and do a write up
the list above gives a break down on what's exactly needed to do and the pics from above is where youre gonna save the money ... if you buy any of the kits made by vendors on here you get an adapter that goes in the filler tube & "essentially" youre paying over $150-200 just for that tube ... all of the parts above can simply be ordered from jegs, summitracing or any speedshop - nothing is custom made or anything, it's just a matter of getting the right materials
post #1 is just the beginning, i'll finish up the rest of this within the next few days
if you know you gonna flow more with big injectors and want to turn down the fuel pressure to 36-40 psi, you can save a ton and buy a rising rate fpr from msd for 50 bux. its only adjustable from 36-40ish psi though. good piece, for a great low budget price. you could also substitute the steel braided line for insulated fuel injector hose. its rated from -55-like 300 degrees F and will hold 250-300 psi. combined with fittings you can actually build a good budget return line for less than 100 bux.
how important is this mod for a big turbo? aaronneon said with dtec, 650s, and 255 it wasnt too important. but i dont have an srt4 so im still learning the why's for my friends build
if you know you gonna flow more with big injectors and want to turn down the fuel pressure to 36-40 psi, you can save a ton and buy a rising rate fpr from msd for 50 bux. its only adjustable from 36-40ish psi though. good piece, for a great low budget price. you could also substitute the steel braided line for insulated fuel injector hose. its rated from -55-like 300 degrees F and will hold 250-300 psi. combined with fittings you can actually build a good budget return line for less than 100 bux.
if you know you gonna flow more with big injectors and want to turn down the fuel pressure to 36-40 psi, you can save a ton and buy a rising rate fpr from msd for 50 bux. its only adjustable from 36-40ish psi though. good piece, for a great low budget price. you could also substitute the steel braided line for insulated fuel injector hose. its rated from -55-like 300 degrees F and will hold 250-300 psi. combined with fittings you can actually build a good budget return line for less than 100 bux.
thanks for the parts put up...but what all would be different if i wanted to do the agp style return? that way i dont need to buy a fuel rail.
just by looking at the picture, the agp style is damn basic. would it be cheaper to do since there would be less fittings to buy? 400 from agp is crazy.
doing the agp return would be a little bit tricky ....
then you'd just install that T into your stock feedline ... then use the -4an to 1/8" npt fitting to run the ss braided line from the feedline to the FPR
Last edited by uncommonŠ : 04-10-2007 at 02:59 PM.
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the tale of a return line **PICS**
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