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Old 06-08-2005, 10:27 PM   #16 (permalink)
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This is a good thread to sticky in the fuel section, Moved here to fuel section for all to see.

This thread should aid those who have huge turbos and need more volume :0

thankz Vector for doing/gathering the knowledge and throwing it in one thread.
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Old 06-08-2005, 10:34 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Umm it seems to have helped out on my stock turbo for some reason too.
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Old 06-08-2005, 11:30 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by NIVO88T
This is a good thread to sticky in the fuel section, Moved here to fuel section for all to see.

This thread should aid those who have huge turbos and need more volume :0

thankz Vector for doing/gathering the knowledge and throwing it in one thread.


haha sweet i made a sticky

happy i could help, just returning that favor for those who helped me
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Old 06-09-2005, 11:22 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Don't forget the one who pointed it all out to you!
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Old 06-09-2005, 12:14 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by Vector
I filled the stock filter /reg with JB water weld and put a cap on it its just a plug

i drilled a hole as close to inline with the top of the pump as i could. much like you would if you did a return to this location

no i never seem to ahve a camera around when i need to take pics

Nemo installed my return line system when he originaly tuned my emanage back almost a year ago. I know he put some sort of metal piece in the stock fpr to I guess bypass it. Will I need to fill it up with JB weld now too?

I will admit that I have no experience in messing with the fuel pump, etc so I'm kinda lost. If I could get a damn day off I would spend it under the car to see how this shit works.

Vector, what I plan on doing is replacing the walbro thats in there now with a new walbro (I think mine is failing), doing this mod to remove the bottle neck, and re-wiring it.
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Old 06-09-2005, 12:39 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by silverscooby
Nemo installed my return line system when he originaly tuned my emanage back almost a year ago. I know he put some sort of metal piece in the stock fpr to I guess bypass it. Will I need to fill it up with JB weld now too?

I will admit that I have no experience in messing with the fuel pump, etc so I'm kinda lost. If I could get a damn day off I would spend it under the car to see how this shit works.

Vector, what I plan on doing is replacing the walbro thats in there now with a new walbro (I think mine is failing), doing this mod to remove the bottle neck, and re-wiring it.


what nemo did was bypass your FPR/stock filter fuel is flowing in and out of it.

i filled the exit of it where the stock line hooks to. just making the hole filter/regulator a pluge for its hole.

you could remove it all together. and pluge that hole if you like

my plain was like your this mod and a rewire. i got tired of working on it. and started testing things out without the rewire and found this was more then enough of a fix for me. so i havnt rewired
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Old 06-19-2005, 11:58 PM   #22 (permalink)
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On the return do you suggest it being like the spoolboy mod or putting it somewhere else? They have it going back into the canister on the spoolboy mod. I seen nemo's kit just dumps it into the filler tube and someone else the same. It's hard to understand where psi-fi's is going but it's back to the tank somewhere but not into the canister. Trying to get all the fittings for this and have no idea if I should take it back to the tank or just dump it to the canister. I can do either just wondered what's better. I figured the -4an bulk head fitting will work in either place so just going to order it anyways. But wanted to get my pump back together and get the fuel system part finished for my car. Well if anyone has a idea please get back to me e-mail me if possible. ldecaria@comcast.net
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Old 06-20-2005, 08:05 PM   #23 (permalink)
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For those who don't know here is a link of the spool boy mod
http://www.fwdmopar.com/sites/dennis/plfuelmods.html

And here is the link using the fittings to what vector said. Also some pics as well as someone that used braided line instead.
http://www.neons.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=188969

The spool boy mod link has tons of good info on it and alot of help on how to do the mod to the pump.
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Old 07-09-2005, 09:41 AM   #24 (permalink)
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I would think running it back into the canister would help when the tank is getting low. I did this one mod on my Cavalier and it would get fuel cut below a 1/4 tank from the fuel sloshing around. So putting it back into the canister I would reccomend and will do. I do agree on some kind of over-flow vent because that canister will probably fill up quick especially on a full tank.Vented towards the top.
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Old 07-11-2005, 06:43 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Why is there 3 feet of braided line going to the filter. Isnt that alot of line to be running such a short distance?
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Old 07-12-2005, 07:09 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by SpecJ
Why is there 3 feet of braided line going to the filter. Isnt that alot of line to be running such a short distance?


Can you please show me wher it says anywhere that you have to use the intire 3 feet of line..? or anything about useing 3 feet of line?

use your head a little they sell it in a box that happens to have 3 feet in it. yes your allowed to cut it i know of no laws that say you cant

i used about 18 inch's

I do remeber saying

"you will need a dremel tool
a drill
zip tie's
sanding drums for the dremel
and a little imagination" <-----------

see the last part there you may have to use yours
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Old 07-15-2005, 05:11 PM   #27 (permalink)
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where do you connect the line coming from the filter to the factory fuel line??
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Old 07-15-2005, 08:42 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by turbonick1
where do you connect the line coming from the filter to the factory fuel line??


I want to know this as well please.
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Old 07-15-2005, 10:28 PM   #29 (permalink)
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You have a few choices first is to cut the stock line with a pipe cutting tool that plumbers use this way you have a nice flush cut. You can then flare the end of the 5/16 line and use a 5/16 tubing to -6 connector they sell them at a few places I think it was like 5-6 bucks for this connector worst part is getting a flare tool to do 37 degree flares but some fittings don't require you to flare so you will be fine. Just make sure you know when you buy the fittings ask the person if you are unsure. Second would be to run a entire new line up to the fuel rail and don't use the stock line. This is what I did. It was much easier to do it this way and didn't cost much more money as I used the black push lock style hose instead of braided line. Paid like 2 bucks or so a foot. I got 15 feet and had plenty extra. I used just over 13 feet of -4an line for my return so getting 14 feet would be plenty. I mounted my regulator on the driver side near the headlight area. The hardest part was the spool boy mod. It took some time to do it but I am glad I did. Works flawlessly as well. Here is a few shots of my engine bay now. The car is running great now just have to tune it Vector PLEASE get ahold of me. I wouldn't mind metting up with ya to tune the dtec for me and show me a few things on it. But anyways it does take some work to figure out and design the system. It's impossible for anyone to have a complete setup for sale as people have things mounted in different area's so different fittings and different line lengths are used.

Imagination is the key and trust me it's something you will have to think out and just do. I planned it out on paper with what I needed and I still had to order more fittings for it afterwards as I forgot about a few fittings.

I am only showing 2 pics but have more pics of the car just as links.
I didn't take any from under the car if I can get the car on a hoist sometime soon I can take some better shots of the fuel pump mod etc...
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Old 07-16-2005, 12:03 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Lorenzo, could I still do this on the stock fuel rail with schrader valve or would I have to get an aftermarket rail?
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