i've posted up time and time again about the same shit!! I've tried eveything to prevent this problem from happening!! I don't know how some people are just fine and never have this happen to them?? I went to -6AN SS braided Aeroquip hose after 4x's of the F.I. line splitting, cracking, ballooning, etc... I use a F.I. clamp to seal it on the pump and have NO problems w/start up, FP, etc..
You have to use the SS braided hose and even better is the Teflon hose. We will have a bottle neck mod sale happening here very soon after we get all the bugs worked out. It comes with filter and everything to go to 6 or 8 AN line. Teflon SS braided hose is the only way to go if you are going to be doing it "right".
i've posted up time and time again about the same shit!! I've tried eveything to prevent this problem from happening!! I don't know how some people are just fine and never have this happen to them?? I went to -6AN SS braided Aeroquip hose after 4x's of the F.I. line splitting, cracking, ballooning, etc... I use a F.I. clamp to seal it on the pump and have NO problems w/start up, FP, etc..
How long have you been running with the SS braided line? And wasn't it really loose on the pump itself?
The 6 AN line is very tight fitting over the hose if you use the Teflon stuff. Not to sure about the rubber hose? It should be the same.
i've posted up time and time again about the same shit!! I've tried eveything to prevent this problem from happening!! I don't know how some people are just fine and never have this happen to them?? I went to -6AN SS braided Aeroquip hose after 4x's of the F.I. line splitting, cracking, ballooning, etc... I use a F.I. clamp to seal it on the pump and have NO problems w/start up, FP, etc..
How long have you been running with the SS braided line? And wasn't it really loose on the pump itself?
The 6 AN line is very tight fitting over the hose if you use the Teflon stuff. Not to sure about the rubber hose? It should be the same.
John, do you mean the "black braided" hose? I could've used that too, but I know that the SS braided works so I went w/the "sure thing"...rubber F.I. line just doesn't hold up when submerged in gas!
I have had the bottle neck fix on my car for about a week. Well last friday i was running at the track and the fuel line i have coming off the pump popped inside the tank.
I used 5/16 Goodyear Fuel Injection hose with the blue nylon in it. And it still popped. So i pulled the tnk out yesterday to see what happened and i found the hose split in 3 places on the push lock fitting right on the bulkhead of the pump. So after close inspection i realized that I'm stretching the shit out of the hose on the fitting. Pulling the nylon out. So i decide to step up to a 3/8's fuel injection hose. It slide right on to the fitting and i clamp it down no problems. Put it on the nipple on the pump and tighten it down with a clamp(yes i know i had to crush it pretty good to get it to seal) So i do on a test drive all is good. Well im on my way back from a test drive and the damn thing blew again. Nothing like cruising down 285 and not being able to accelerate or barely maintain speed because the engine is starving for fuel. I know the hose in the tank blew again.
So my question is this. What brand of line are you using in the tank, and what kind of clamp are you using. I'm using the regular worm gear style. Gonna upgrade to some t-bolt clamps when i do the repair again. Also should i go back to the 5/16ths hose and just force it on the fitting then clamp it down? Or stick with the 3/8 and clamp the shit out of it on the pump.
don't use a worm style clamp!!! thats whats most likely the start of the problem.. Use fuel line clamps,they look like a minature band clamp almost
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dansrt4
For a shop thats so behind maybe you should catch up on orders before you catch up to me.
OK, i redid the lines last night. I wound up using some 5/16 fuel injection hose from Napa. Its rated for 90psi and seems to be a lot better quality than the Goodyear F.I. hose. Also used some 5/16 F.I. hose clamps. So far everything seems to be ok. Although my Fuel Pressure still drops to 0 after 30 mins or so and fluctuates at idle.
Im wondering if my setup has something to do with it. basically i have the bottle neck fix on the pump. ran to the boomba rail, from there to the aeromotive FPR then a return line that i setup to return back to the inside of the fuel pump canister. The line i have running back to the canister from the bulkhead is starting to kink from the fuel causing the line to balloon.
John: So your recommending the -6an Teflon line?
RoostBoost: With your -6an line your using does your fuel pressure still drop to zero after a little time?
Sorry for all the questions, im just trying to figure out why im running into these issues when other people aren't. Its blowing my mind.
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2005 - Flame Red SRT-4 317hp/367tq
P.M. Me for details on installs, maintenance, and repair work in the North Georgia Area.
yes it drops to 0 after a little bit as the pressure is bleeding off through the return line and regulator...I have 0 problems w/my setup and reliability is 10000x's better than ANY rubber F.I. line
If I wanted to run -6 steel braided from the filter to the fuel rail does anyone no how many feet that would be?..and also would fitting would I use on that end of the filter for the -6 line to stay on?
Also, Ive had the Bottleneck fix on my car since August with the Goodyear plastic hose and have NOT had any problems. Clamps on tight. Ive read that the symtops to this is the car just not getting any gas and sputtering or whatnot, so I have not had those symptoms.
If there are any other symptoms, please tell me cuz my car isnt running 100% at WOT, but Im waiting for warm weather to install my DW650cc injectors.
So you cut off the bottleneck off the plastic white tube coming up off the fuel pump? I just replaced my pump the other day and there was the white tube that flows the fuel (i'm guessing thats the bottleneck) and the white piece that keeps the pump lined up. Do you cut the white "bottlenecked" piece or does it unclip from the pump? What about the piece that lines up the pump? Thanx.
Also, I see vector that you are using a straight bulkhead fitting and then a 90 degree fitting, couldn't you just use a 90' bulkhead fitting??? It'd save some money. Or is there not enough room that way as the straight bulkhead and then the 90' fitting puts the end out away from the lid a ways. Thanx.
did u just add 30 degree fitting to other end of bulk head on bottle neck fix..
where can u order fuel line clamps.. been using worm clamps.. they suck monkey balls..
i got fuel leak from stock fpr/fuel filter..
about to order parts to try and do this.. im a novice.. beginner..
so im still workin out details..
guessing this is what i need for bottle neck fix and run SS braided line to fuel rail.. AER-FBM1012
Fitting, Hose End, Straight, -6 AN Hose to Female -6 AN, Aluminum, Red/Blue, 3 Each $6.95
$20.85
AER-FBM1512
Fitting, Hose End, Straight, -6 AN Socketless Hose Barb to Female -6 AN, Aluminum, Red/Blue, Each $5.95
$5.95
AER-FBM2072
Fitting, Straight, Bulkhead Union, -6 AN, Aluminum, Blue, Each $7.88
$7.88
AER-FBM2100
Fitting, Bulkhead Nut, -6 AN, Aluminum, Blue Anodized, Pair $5.25
$5.25
AER-FBM4022
Fitting, Hose End, 45 Degree, -6 AN Hose to Female -6 AN, Aluminum, Red/Blue, Each $17.88
$17.88
AER-FBM4032
Fitting, Hose End, 90 Degree, -6 AN Hose to Female -6 AN, Aluminum, Red/Blue, Each $19.88
$19.88
EAR-178009ERL
Washers, Stat-O-Seal, 9/16 in. I.D., Fit -6 AN, Aluminum with O-Ring, Pair $7.69
$7.69
EAR-230206ERL
Fuel Filter, Inline Mount, Blue, 85 Microns, -6 AN Male Inlet/Outlet, Each $37.39
$37.39
SUM-230615
Hose, Braided Stainless Steel, -6 AN, 15 ft. Length, Each $52.95
$52.95
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