I've had this happen to me a few weeks ago...car stalled out and died and once i got it started again the fp was only at 10psi@ idle. I did use the fuel INJECTION line which has the plastic inner liner (Goodyear hose is what i used). The fuel inj. line was bubbled and deteriorated on the outside when it split. I replaced it w/a different brand of fuel injection line and we'll see what happens...I think SS braided line or the Aeroquip kevlar wrapped(very expensive) fuel line would be the right fix!
Well i did the bottleneck fix to my car and im styll having the same problems as before i have doubled checked all the lines and the pump i have been thru everything.When i get to about 4500 rpm it wont rise and leans out really bad.I cant possibly think wat else it is its really starting to get aggrevating. Does anybody have any idea on what it could be.Thanks Edwin
I have the same problem. Best I can figure the pump is running out of fuel somehow. I monitor FP on my e-01, and it rises nicely to 65 psi, then rapidly falls off at about 4000 rpm. All boost leaks are fixed, same problem exists.
I also had the fuel line rupture from the pump to the outside of the tank. When I replaced it, this problem popped up. I need to drop the tank again and see what's going on in the pump area. I have a fear the rubber seal from the bottom of the pump isn't sitting right. Perhaps that is leading to this problem.
Has anyone metioned that the stock filter on the bottom of the canister [b]CANNOT[b]keep up with how much fuel you are pumping. If you have your return line going back to the canister this should not be a problem for you... But if you are like me and got an agp return line they said to put the return in the filler neck.
To test my therioy I took a 5 gallon bucked and filled it with gas (dont smoke when you do this) then, took the canister completly off so the pump was not in there, and submerged the canister (like when you were a kid playing in the bath tub with a lg cup) you will see that the stock fillter on the bottom of the canister will not allow it to fill fast enough to support the fuel flow increase.
The fix: removal of the fillter on the bottom of the canister. Now you will need to somehow (still have not done this yet) put a hose on the bottom of the pump and get it lower to the bottom of the tank, or at like 1/4 tank you will start running out of fuel.
Let me know if this helped!
__________________
12.26 @ 116mph...412whp 444tq...So far
@5860ft elevation
Has anyone metioned that the stock filter on the bottom of the canister [b]CANNOT[b]keep up with how much fuel you are pumping. If you have your return line going back to the canister this should not be a problem for you... But if you are like me and got an agp return line they said to put the return in the filler neck.
To test my therioy I took a 5 gallon bucked and filled it with gas (dont smoke when you do this) then, took the canister completly off so the pump was not in there, and submerged the canister (like when you were a kid playing in the bath tub with a lg cup) you will see that the stock fillter on the bottom of the canister will not allow it to fill fast enough to support the fuel flow increase.
The fix: removal of the fillter on the bottom of the canister. Now you will need to somehow (still have not done this yet) put a hose on the bottom of the pump and get it lower to the bottom of the tank, or at like 1/4 tank you will start running out of fuel.
Let me know if this helped!
the stock filter on the bottom of the canister aka the sock is a OK up to around 580@ the wheels
in trying to build this mod but i dont want to use the braided hose cus i dont like having the blingy hose leading into the engine bay. is there a way to use AN to barb fittings instead. and if so... which parts from your list do i NOT need to order and instead order AN to Barb fittings? thanks!
And would a 3/8th fuel rail input be enough for a 20G?
EDIT: Nevermind.... i figured it out by looking at the diagram... Any ways whats the point of the inline Fuel filter? does this mod bypass the stock fuel filter? And is 3/8ths hose the same as -6AN? I cant seem to find a -6AN (male) to -6AN Barbed...just -6AN to 3/8ths NPT^
__________________
Quote: Originally Posted by Mighty Whitey
I read your post and was gonna say some stupid shit about you, or your car, or whatever I could gather from your post. Last resort grammer. But by the time I got to the bottom a funny thing happend. You convinced me.
Last edited by ibnzmonkey : 10-01-2006 at 07:13 PM.
you don't have to use the SS braided line as Aeroquip has some very expensive Kevlar (black) braided line that is much stronger and lighter than the SS stuff...
If -6 AN is 3/8ths then why do you use 5/16ths in the diagram to go from the pump to the push fitting?
bc the nipple on the pump is for a 5/16 rather than a 3/8's or a -6an like the push fitting. basically it's either you use a 3/8" hose and it fits very loosly over the nipple on the pump and leaks or you use 5/16" hose and it fits very very tight over the push fitting and fits perfectly over the nipple on the pump. getting the hose on the push fitting can be tricky. i've done a few bottleneck fixes and i found the best way to get the hose over the push fitting is to boil some water, submerge the end of the hose in the boiling water for 20-30 seconds. then take the hose right out of the water and push it onto the push fitting. the first time i did the bottleneck fix it took me about an hour to get the hose on the fitting all the way, but now after heating up the hose it only takes a minute or two.
So does this work in the same way the AGP does. R they pretty much doing the same thing. Or does this have another purpose. I was plannig on buying the AGP set up.
AutoForums.com is the premier network of enthusiast-owned
enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
We operate more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share
experiences and opinions as a community.
11.9@121 Bithlo
Linear Mode
