No, I cannot see the gauge when re-applying pressure, but my AFR's immediately jump to 16.00 (max on my gauge) and the engine chokes and then comes back to life. So far, if onlt does it at the low throttle positions i described earlier. I will be doing the bottleneck fix for sure.
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GT3076R, and everything to make it work. Full suspension set up. Still looking for more!
No, I cannot see the gauge when re-applying pressure, but my AFR's immediately jump to 16.00 (max on my gauge) and the engine chokes and then comes back to life. So far, if onlt does it at the low throttle positions i described earlier. I will be doing the bottleneck fix for sure.
No, I cannot see the gauge when re-applying pressure, but my AFR's immediately jump to 16.00 (max on my gauge) and the engine chokes and then comes back to life. So far, if onlt does it at the low throttle positions i described earlier. I will be doing the bottleneck fix for sure.
haha, just installed my fuel return line kit and im having the same problems. i get that lean spike. what i read from other posts is people were running pretty low pressures, some of them bumped it up to at least 58 psi.(stock right?) and they said that lean spike goes away,
anyone know if while the car is idiling that the fuel pressure gauge is supposed to jump cray? i hold good on the prime, but when car is on then my gauge goes besurk between 60psi and 70. i set it to 60 on prime though. any thoughts?
No, I have RC 750's and I am big turbo. I am guessing that it is the stock fpr still trying to work. I will be doing the bottleneck fix once I figure out how to do it. As of right now, I am just frustrated. What would happen if I just diconnected the black wire (ground?) that goes to the fpr? I am guessing that grounds the fuel pump, so is not a good idea, but damn, this sucks. BTW, I have it set for 40psi at prime/idle with the vac line off. Also, my jumps around a bit to when Idleing, about 5 psi worth.
but, when you rev your car a little do your af's get rich and then lean out right before the actual idle? i sometimes turn on the car and my wideband goes completely lean intill i rev the car then it goes to 17+ then settles to 14/15, weird though.
that problem is much different than mine. Mine idles fine, with 20% removed on the safc, it idles at about 14.6 at 40 psi. It will occasionally stumble at a red light, I will see 16.00, then back to the 14.6. The only other time it stumbles is when I am in gear and I let off the throttle for a few seconds, then re-apply. It chokes for a bit, then returns to normal. It also does it when I shift gears, If I am shifting slow, like you do in normal driving. While throttle is continuously applied, it is fine.
OK i have a question here lately my car is hard to start it used to start on the first try but now you have to try 2 times. Yesterday i was driving it in NC it was pretty hot when i stopped i smelled a little gas smell coming through the ac vents and when i got out i could here like a hissing sound car was running ok i guess. Any help would be appreciated.
I hate my car, same fuel problem....wish I never installed a return line. Nothing but problems ever since. I have even done the bottleneck fix. Lean spike between almost every shift and the fuel trims are everywhere. No consistency anywhere, suppose I can try going back to 58pi, and take the 1:1 off, who knows
I hate my car, same fuel problem....wish I never installed a return line. Nothing but problems ever since. I have even done the bottleneck fix. Lean spike between almost every shift and the fuel trims are everywhere. No consistency anywhere, suppose I can try going back to 58pi, and take the 1:1 off, who knows
I hate my car, same fuel problem....wish I never installed a return line. Nothing but problems ever since. I have even done the bottleneck fix. Lean spike between almost every shift and the fuel trims are everywhere. No consistency anywhere, suppose I can try going back to 58pi, and take the 1:1 off, who knows
When you shift, you take your foot off the gas, right? Providing less fuel to the motor while the rpm's come down which will cause a "lean spike." Should be that big of a deal. As for the flucutations, is it while you are driving normally, less than WOT? If so, it's supposed to flucuate. If it's not somewhat steady at WOT, then you may have a problem. Mine still moves in WOT...get's leaner as the rpm's go up but not by too much.
When you shift, you take your foot off the gas, right? Providing less fuel to the motor while the rpm's come down which will cause a "lean spike." Should be that big of a deal. As for the flucutations, is it while you are driving normally, less than WOT? If so, it's supposed to flucuate. If it's not somewhat steady at WOT, then you may have a problem. Mine still moves in WOT...get's leaner as the rpm's go up but not by too much.
i get no codes. I have stage 1pcm. My car, when warm, idles right aroun 15.1ish +/- a couple tenths. When cruising, it sits at 14.0. Eats up the gas mileage. I'm changing the upstream O2 sensor soon.
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