man a guy asks a question three times and no answer as of yet?
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s1, stock turbo, power paq, needswings dp, custom intake, custom cold side pipes, agp wga, ngk plugs, magnacore wires, direct port 100 shot, aem wb a/f of 11.5-11.8, custom intake mani, direct port water injection, 255 pump, second fuel system for nitrous with return line and fpr, 12.3@116 2005 pt cruiser
Painless makes a fuel pump relay kit... Weather proof #30131 $43.99 Standard #50102 $29.99... I know these are universal vs yours. What makes your kit so special that you charge 90 bucks for it? Not trying to be an ass, but that's huge difference. I understand that yours is "plug and play"... With the painless kit you might have to do a little work.
Our kit is the weather proof so lets go through this.... again. We have an install and go kit, no need to cut, crimp, or mulitiple wires to solder. We use only crimp and solder connectors, not cheap ass crimp ons. Every wire gets heat shrinked to make sure you have a long life of it. We use only ROHS compliant connectors and wire.
So lets see, if I take the $20+ dollars for the PNP part alone that would mean the Painless kit would be $65 (give or take) now we are only looking at a $24 difference. Now lets take the fact that the Painless kit is only 12 gauge, uses crimp on connectors, you have to cut and fit it to your car and blah blah blah. I hope that your time is worth money because mine is and it takes time to put these kits together.
So what you are getting is a kit that comes with all the connetors soldered on, better connectors (if you don't know the difference between non ROHS and ROHS compliant applications google it), heat shrink on every solder joint, 10 gauge wire feeding the pump (not 12 gauge like the painless kit), PNP harness, extra relay (extra $4), self drilling screws for the install of the ground and relay, zip ties for holding the wires up and out of the way, no reason to cut, splice, fit, then fit again (our kit is already to go with all the ends installed and you just have to get under the car one time not many) and best of all color directions for the install that lists every tool you will need for the instal. Hell, the 5 color copy pages are $4, it all adds up and makes for a kit that anyone can install. I hope you can see that there is a difference not only in the kit but the install as well. Yes one you can save money with but it is not "built" they way it should have been and some peoples time is worth more then $20 for an install that might take up to an hour or more vs our kit which only takes 20 to 30 minutes to install.
This is just another choice for those that want one and it seems that a bunch of people wanted that choice, thanks for buying.
Hi John I am interested in this kit, no more money to spend for extras right now though, I just had a 3" TBE installed. Are these going to be available at this price for a few months?
There are more then just one person that owns a gt cruiser and looks towards srt4 forums for upgrades and performance parts. And since you replied in a pm would you be kind to share to the rest of the ptgt crowd
Let's see if I can help answer some of the concerns on this thread ... I re-wired my fuel pump back in July of 2004 , after measuring the voltage at the fuel pump to be only 10.8 volts at idle , and even lessas the wire heats up with more current passing through it at WOT.
After finding this out , I called Walbro to ask them about what the fuel pump is doing at lesser voltages. They told me ALL the electronic fuel pumps are spec'd to give their flow ratings at approx 13.5 volts !And that at ANY less voltage , the fuel pump is putting out less than it is rated to do !!
*** They told me my 255 lpi fuel pump would only be putting out approx 170 lpi with only getting 8 to 9 volts under WOT at the higher RPMS ***
This means that when the car is at WOT under a heavy engine load at higher RPMs , where we NEED the fuel the most , we are getting less fuel with the damned voltage drop !!!!!!!!!!!!!! Can you say recipe for a possible BOOM ?
Why did DCX do this ?
#1 - Simple engineering oversight ( a poor choice for wire guage )
#2 - Not taking into consideration the SRT-4 would be pushed to levels of more than 100 whp more than stock.
Bottom line : If you haven't re-wired your fuel pump , you ARE NOT getting the fuel pump's advertised flow rate !!!!! Why'd you buy that aftermarket Walbro again ? LOL
Regardless , this is a VERY , VERY smart mod that WILL make your car run smoother and better , and WILL help protect your investment. The quality of John's kits, along with the amount of labor involved, easily justifies the price.
There are more then just one person that owns a gt cruiser and looks towards srt4 forums for upgrades and performance parts. And since you replied in a pm would you be kind to share to the rest of the ptgt crowd
If the wire to the fuel pump is the same 18 guage that is used on the SRT-4 , then YES it will work the exact same.
Hi John I am interested in this kit, no more money to spend for extras right now though, I just had a 3" TBE installed. Are these going to be available at this price for a few months?
Yes, I want to keep this sale up till the 1st of Nov.
There are more then just one person that owns a gt cruiser and looks towards srt4 forums for upgrades and performance parts. And since you replied in a pm would you be kind to share to the rest of the ptgt crowd
I think I said I don't know (sorry if I didn't post that). I need pictures of the connector and I am not sure if the length of the B+ wire needs to be longer. When I get a picture of the connector I will need a test vehicle to see if in fact it work or if we need to go longer with the kit wires. I will keep you guys posted on this.
255 lpi fuel pump would only be putting out approx 170 lpi with only getting 8 to 9 volts under WOT at the higher RPMS ***
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what does lpi stand for...im familiar with lph
I think he wanted to type LPH but got LPI. Or it could be something that I am missing as well.
cp980fps thank you. I didn't get the 13.5 from them in the email that I sent they stated 12.6 for there 255 pump but I also didn't ask for the SRT4 in specific so that is where I might have had an oversite on my part. No matter what the rewire is a complete necessity for our car, no questions about it.
The thing that kills me is the time that goes in to one kit. I am lucky if I can get a 2/3 an hour done when building these. The amount of time that goes into the doesn't even come close to justifing the price but I am doing this at this price because its a "needed mod". Just like the check valve, if your not running one you have boost leaks.
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