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Fic 1100s @ 95% DC with only around 400whp?? Datalogs available

1K views 15 replies 6 participants last post by  Gizmodo 
#1 · (Edited)
OK.. So after the e85 swap

walbro 450 intank
pump rewire
bottleneck fix
fuelab 828 series 6 micron filter
-8 PTFE feed
-6 PTFE return
Boomba rail
FIC 1100s

I have been taking logs constantly and Email tuning Nigel back and forth , but can't figure out an issue as to why its running such a high DC. I was under the assumption that 1100s would top out around 525 ( ish ) WHP..

At the moment I do not have a Fuel Pressure gauge, so I cant see whats going on at wot. So Until I get that setup, I will be doing a boost leak test, compression test ( just to doublw check everything ) .. Then I will drop the tank , pull canister, clean tank ( again ) , change fuel sock, then possibly put the canister into a bucket of water or fuel, then turn it on to see if any lines are kinking, or something looks weird..

SO yea.. I have no idea what would make the injectors run at such a high duty cycle ( around 20100us @ 6200 rpm ) so any help or other places to look would be great


Base pressure is 50 psi, on a vacuum sounre and is 1:1..

cncport race head +1 +2
bc s3 cams
mpx 62 mm TB
Agp log mani
gt30r ( 3076 ) currently on 25 psi
turbonetics evo 38mm gate
cai
3" turbo back
 
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#2 ·
I would check the fuel filter element. I'm not sure the Fuelab paper element is E85 safe. They have a stainless steel filter element, but they only go down to 40 microns.
 
#4 ·
Is not paper. The fuelab 6micron is fiberglass.
 
#5 ·
I'll pull the element when I pull the tank. It's all brand new tho, maybe 500 miles on everything? The fiberglass element was rated for e85, and the tank was clean when the canister mods/ pump was done.
 
#6 ·
Yeah, I misread and assumed it was the paper element, which also happens tp be E85 compatible. A fuel pressure gauge is a must.
 
#7 ·
#9 ·
Any idea on where I'm losing pressure? Bad fuel pump?
 
#10 ·
Verify the pressure is much lower than it should be and then find out what's causing it.

or just spend a few hundred dollars & countless hours throwing random parts at it.


It could be anything from the gauge(see attached) to fuel line leak, regulator, poor boost line routing, pump,,,who knows?
Knowing what the fuel rail pressure is doing will point in the right direction.
 

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#11 ·
SO what do you think? Spend $200 on a aem gauge for the inside, or buy a $50 FP tester from sears , tape it to my windshield and do a wot pull, tapped of the regulator or the rail...


Also if it matters, my aero fpr is in the same location as it would be for the agp return setup. right next to the passenger strut tower. So about 2-3 feet off of the boomba rail ( from the drivers side )
 
#12 ·
50 dollars to test the theory, fix and locate whatever is wrong with your car, retest, remove funny tester and add bling gauge later. :)
 
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#13 ·
Not gonna lie .. feels good to have a OG respond.. but.. already ordered the the aem FP gauge. :)
 
#14 ·
Lol im not really an OG. I bought the car in 06 with 11,400 miles. I wamted a mustang but my brother tslked me out of it. Duster is the true og backed by knowledge and hands on experience.
 
#15 ·
i know this :)

Dave has been more than helpful to me since 2012, and have learned from him from threads many years prior..

Giz and Duster have always argued but have been fun to listen too, just based on both of their iown beliefs and ways of doing things


And thanks again Dave for tuning my last srt when you were in Duluth.. Gonna be tough to match what that car was....
 
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