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Completely upgraded fuel system info, shopping list/pics!

23K views 59 replies 21 participants last post by  eblue_903 
#1 · (Edited)
I've been digging through this forum for quite a while doing research on fuel systems. Each "how-to" thread was a good start, but rapidly became cluttered and did not seem to offer a complete approach to a better fuel system. I was frustrated with attempts to find fittings or "fixes" to reuse any part of the stock fuel system.

just [want to] make a point for the readers of this thread - it burns my ass to have someone say "you can do that for XX.XX cheaper" when really you can get parts that may work the same 80% of the time for XX.XX cheaper.
NachO


Here goes:

Design goals:
-6 AN FEED
-6 AN RETURN
1:1 Rising Rate Regulator, after the rail
"Bottle neck fix"
Injectors to support GT3076R (with 100% methanol injection)
aftermarket rail with proper fittings
walbro 255 pump

Here's what I came up with:


Design Concept:
A completely -6 AN system with bulkhead fittings installed in the fuel canister assembly cover. Fuel lines will be installed directly from the bulkhead fittings to the fuel filter (on the rail inlet) and the regulator return port (on the rail outlet). Fuel lines will be supported in engine bay and underneath chassis with insulated 5/8" clamps secured with short self-tapping hardware and/or ziptied in place.

Description of hose to be used (not pictured):
All -6 AN lines are AQP Socketless hose. This hose is rated to SAE 100R6, which covers a sufficient operating temperature range, operating pressure range, and weather/petroleum resistance. The AQP lines are also much cheaper than braided stainless and much easier to assemble. A short section of -6 AN line secured via O-Rings, gasoline safe sealant, and 2x hose clamps was used to connect the pump outlet to bulkhead fitting. Outdated text: A short section of 5/16 line will be used to connect the fuel pump outlet to the -6 AN feed line bulkhead fitting. Hose clamps are NOT required and their use is specifically NOT recommended by the manufacturer for the AQP Socketless fittings.

Parts list:
AEI-13109 Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator -1@135.95 ea
AEI-15633 Aeromotive 0-100 Fuel Pressure Gauges -1@29.95 ea
AER-FBM1512 -6AN to AQP barb, straight -4@5.95 ea
AER-FBM1532 -6AN to AQP barb, 90* -2@14.25 ea
AER-FBM2072 -6AN bulkhead fitting -2@4.25 ea
AER-FCN0615 15' AQP socketless hose, black -2@51.88 ea
EAR-178009ERL 9/16 Stat-O-Seal, pair -2@7.39 pack
EAR-985068ERL -6 AN to -8 AN O-RING -1@9.95 ea
RUS-650133 Fuel Filter -1@24.25 ea
SUM-220166 -6 AN O-RING to -6 AN -1@7.88 ea
SUM-220639 -6 AN bulkhead nut -2@1.95 ea
SUM-G1883 5/8" insulated clamp 10 pack -2@8.95 pack

Boomba Fuel Rail -1@155.00 ea
625 CC (655 cc/min at 43.5 psi actual) injectors, 4 pack -1@288.00 pack
Walbro 255 fuel pump -1@125.00 ea


Special Assembly Notes:
1. Utilize one Stat-O-Seal between the regulator and -8/-6 reducer on the end of the rail.
2. Re-use -6 AN plug supplied with Boomba rail for second inlet on regulator
3. Salvage 1x -6 AN o-ring from factory fuel line adapter and place on outlet end of fuel filter prior to installing on rail inlet
4. Remove white plastic factory regulator adapter from top of Walbro pump and connect with 5/16 fuel line (price/part number not specified). Secure pump within canister
5. 1x Stat-O-Seal, 1x -8AN plug from fuel rail, and 1x stock fuel line adapter will remain unused, all other parts/fittings are utilized

Total Cost/Cost Analysis:
1. Cost of all of my fittings/lines: 409.12
Cost of AGP returnline: 365.00
Cost of PTP bottleneck fix: 99.50
Cost of PTP Queasy: 62.49
(these items were selected because they best represent available aftermarket solutions for the same problems resolved in my setup)
Difference: My setup includes a -6 feed AND return line for $117 less, but requires an aftermarket rail.

2. Cost of all parts: 977.12
Cost of DCR Bottleneck fix w/ 255 pump: 350.00
Cost of DCR Returnline: 440.00
(these items were selected because they best represent available aftermarket solutions for the same problems resolved in my setup)
Difference: My pump does not have the hard soldered connections, but my setup does cost 187.12 more. However, my setup includes the injectors, new rail, and -6 feed and return line for the minimal additional cost.

Fuel Injector Calculations/Results:
Deatschwerks

655 cc/min @ 43.5 PSI= 800 cc/min at 65 PSI
40 PSI base pressure, 25 psi of boost to raise to 65 by 1:1 regulator

Theoretical Max HP: 470
Injectors: 4
BSFC: .55 (assumed)
Max Duty Cycle: 85%

(interestingly, 750 cc injectors would support 540 horse by those calculations)

Disclaimer:
I'm not responsible nor can I be held liable for anything you do on your car. Furthermore, I do not intend to market, sell, or profit from the distribution of this "list" and "instructions."

Remarks:
So there y'all go... a fun novel about fuel. I feel that this is the most comprehensive and exhaustive approach to a "big" fuel system. The price tag may seem frightening, but when it's broken down, it is very economical. This system should be able to support the theoretical maximum of your selected injectors and/or the Walbro 255 pump. This system should also be compatible with E-85.

I'll be installing it soon and taking pictures of the entire install process.
 
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1
#2 · (Edited)
Critical tool list:
-Large strap wrench!!
-11/16 and 13/16 ratcheting wrenches and/or sockets

1: Preparation work/removal of stock parts in engine bay:
1.1: Depressurize fuel lines and remove stock flexible line
__1.1.1: remove fuel pump relay from engine bay fuse box
__1.1.2: start car and allow to run until it dies. continue cranking 3-5 seconds every 30 seconds 5 times
__1.1.3: wrap plenty of rags around stock fuel line at the rail, and remove by depressing both white tabs and pulling the fitting up and off the rail
__1.1.4: remove braided stock fuel line from hardline near firewall
1.2: Remove rail and injectors
__1.2.1: unplug all injectors and MAP sensor, place wires up and out of the way
__1.2.2: remove both fuel rail pawns
__1.2.3: carefully clean away any debris around the base of the fuel injectors
__1.2.4: remove fuel rail with injectors attached




2: Installation of new parts in engine bay:
2.1: Install new injectors and rail
__2.1.1: lightly lube new injector o-rings (top and bottom) with clean motor oil and insert into intake manifold



__2.1.2: mark hoses "supply" and "return" with tape
___2.1.2a: attach one barbed AQP fitting to one end of the AQP 15' "Return" hose (helps to apply a swipe of oil on the barb)
___2.1.2b: attach one barbed AQP fitting to one end of the AQP 15' "Supply" hose (helps to apply a swipe of oil on the barb)
__2.1.3: secure Return hose to bottom of regulator (may need to rotate regulator just a tad) and route hose under intake
__2.1.4: fasten rail in place with supplied allen head hardware
__2.1.5: secure Supply hose to rail inlet



2.2: Mount and plumb fuel filter
__2.2.1: utilize one clamp and self tapping screw to attach filter near passenger shock mount/torque strut mount



__2.2.2: mock up hose placement for filter --> fuel rail inlet to determine length
__2.2.3: trim "supply" hose to length and attach barbed end
__2.2.4: securely fasten hose to filter outlet
__2.2.5: attach barbed end to "Supply" hose, secure to filter inlet



2.3: Route hoses
__2.3.1: route hoses down firewall
__2.3.2: remove all kinks and ensure all bends are gently radiused
__2.3.3: zip tie Return line to Supply line between rail and filter



3: Fuel canister removal/modification/installation
Check this thread out for info/schematic: http://www.srtforums.com/forums/f187/fuel-system-bottleneck-fix-feed-line-mod-149071/
3.1: Remove fuel canister
__3.1.1: lift and properly support vehicle
__3.1.2: remove fuel pump/sender harness from fuel tank
__3.1.3: remove stock fuel line from FPR/Filter
__3.1.4: loosen emissions box/carbon box (proper nomenclature?) near rear passenger wheel
__3.1.5: remove bolt on passenger side tank strap, loosen bolt on drivers side (do not remove without supporting fuel tank)
__3.1.6: utilize strap wrench to remove large plastic ring from gas tank and set aside



__3.1.7: pull tank down slightly (mind the fuel) and remove canister assembly
3.2: Install new pump/fittings
__3.2.1: remove existing parts
___3.2.1a: utilize disassembly tool (provided with pump kit) to pop open canister, remove existing fuel pump, blue grommet beneath pump, and existing sock
___3.2.1b: gently pry electrical connector from top of old pump, connect to new pump



___3.2.1c: slip new blue grommet on bottom of new fuel pump
__3.2.2: modify canister/plumb (see link above)
___3.2.2a: drill four holes in side of canister to wrap zipties around pump detailed schematics coming soon
___3.2.2b: drill two holes in top of canister for the fuel lines (NOT the fuel hat, yet) Be careful, this plastic is extremely brittle and likely to fracture, drill one directly above pump
___3.2.2c: cut a 12" section off one of the hoses and insert it on the pump outlet (sealant, hose clamps, and o-rings may be necessary if your pump has a 5/16 outlet)
___3.2.2d: run the line attached to the pump up through the canister lid
___3.2.2e: secure pump firmly with zip ties
__3.2.3: modify fuel hat
___3.2.3a: remove factory FPR, seal with JB water-weld and replace, or seal mounting location with 2 3/16" freeze plug and gasoline-safe adhesive/sealant (JB Water Weld)
___3.2.3b: drill 7/16" hole in fuel hat directly above fuel line outlet from pump, drill 7/16" hole for return in suitable location
___3.2.3c: place a bulkhead fitting in each hole (slight reaming may be necessary), secure with stat-o-seal and bulkhead nut


NOTE: Supply fitting (bottom blue fitting) was relocated to "Walbro" logo cast in fuel hat. Freeze plug not shown

___3.2.3d: mock up canister/hat together, attach one straight hose end to supply bulkhead fitting, trim hose to length (VERY CRITICAL that it's not too long/short)
___3.2.3e: remove hose end from bulkhead fitting, install on hose from fuel pump, securely fasten to bulkhead fitting
___3.2.3f: trim 6" from longest hose under chassis, attach hose end and secure to return bulkhead fitting, route hose into canister
3.3: Reassemble fuel canister/reinstall fuel assembly
__3.3.1: reattach canister to hat, making sure all three tabs engage securely
__3.3.2: place new large o-ring in tank, reinsert entire assembly in to fuel tank
__3.3.3: gently thread large white ring onto fuel tank, being careful not to crossthread
__3.3.4: tighten white ring with strap wrench, do NOT over tighten!

4: Final Assembly
4.1: Connect hoses
__4.1.1: Attach 90* fittings to bulkhead fittings finger-tight only
__4.1.2: route hoses along framerail, secure with clamps and self tapping hardware



__4.1.3: determine length of hose necessary to reach tank fittings, trim excess
__4.1.4: remove finger-tight fittings, install in hose ends, and connect hoses to bulkhead fittings



__4.1.5: secure any sags in hose with zipties and clamps



4.2: Vacuum lines
__4.2.1: attach a suitable diameter vacuum line to boost-only source, such as compressor cover
__4.2.2: attach vacuum line to reference port on fuel regulator
4.3: Prime and check for leaks
__4.3.1: add 1-2 gallons of fuel to tank
__4.3.2: prime car by placing key in "on" position for 5 seconds, and then turn off. Repeat until gauge shows fuel pressure in rail
__4.3.3: once fuel pressure is shown on rail-mounted gauge, thoroughly check all fittings for leaks and repair as needed
4.4: Set static pressure
__4.4.1: after sufficient priming, start engine
__4.4.2: loosen/tighten allen head bolt on regulator to achieve desired pressure
__4.4.3: tighten nut while holding allen head bolt with allen wrench
__4.4.4: verify that fuel pressure is at desired PSI



5: Enjoy your new fuel!

-- UPDATE --

Tried doing a few WOT runs (on 10 psi spring in WGA) just to do some "light" runs on the system. Base pressure of 40 PSI nets a (scary) 12.4 at WOT in third. Hooked up 1/8" vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator and did another run... 10.3 at WOT in third. A drop of 1.9 on the AFR scale shows the benefit of having a "rising rate" regulator!
 
#6 ·
You're welcome!

finish anything yet?
Not yet, it's all boxed up and waiting for install with the GT3076R kit. I don't have a garage anymore and need to wait until I'm not TDY or our workload drops so I can take some leave and do it at the auto hobby shop.

I'm interested! Whats the deal with the line you found? Pretty easy to work with? With the braided return lines I've seen so far, they are a bitch to install the compression fittings on...
The AQP line is a breeze to work with. I've farted around with it and it's pretty easy to slip onto a fitting, even without lube. Just get a good grip and twist a quarter turn as you push it on and it's golden.

The AQP line is essentially the same (inside) as the braided steel, but with a synthetic rubberized fabric wrap on the outside.
 
#4 ·
finish anything yet?
 
#17 · (Edited)
The queasy (if i'm not mistaken) is basically a machined "bit" that fits in place of the stock filter/FPR that allows easy installation of a return line. It doesn't affect anything in the can, where the bigtime bottleneck is.

You should have gotten 3 of these for you reulator (jegs) 361-985006
You could have bought this and saved on the fuel rail (jegs) 361-985006
You could have put the regulator before the fuel rail and saved on the fittings attaching it to the rail.
Just a thought, nice setup though. Seems to be a little over kill for the size of injectors, better to big than to small.
I did get items similar to the first number you have listed... not sure if the second number was supposed to be a different one?

Yes, it would have been possible to put the regulator before the rail or even use adapters to avoid needing a new fuel rail. However, I wanted an uninterrupted 3/8" (-6AN) feed from the pump (ended up using 3/8 line from the pump to hat instead of the 5/16 spec'd above) all the way to the injector itself. And call me hard headed, but I'd rather have the regulator "pinch" the line after the fuel rail. Granted, that's all purely my personal preference.

Larger injectors tend to be more "sloppy" down on the idle end of things, that's why I want a tad smaller than most do. I'm also keeping the option open of running E85 in the future, and with a simple injector swap this fuel setup will be sufficient.

//Install complete// photos and write up will be posted soon! Total work time including an oil change/tranny fluid, lunch, and smoke breaks was 6 hours working by myself. Not a single leaked drop on initial pressurization! Car idled and ran home just fine at 40 psi.
 
#15 ·
You should have gotten 3 of these for you reulator (jegs) 361-985006
You could have bought this and saved on the fuel rail (jegs) 361-985006
You could have put the regulator before the fuel rail and saved on the fittings attaching it to the rail.
Just a thought, nice setup though. Seems to be a little over kill for the size of injectors, better to big than to small.
 
#18 ·
awesome. looking forward to the pics. a buddy followed your parts list and we had no trouble at all. but ill be doing this one on my own so me likey pics. ordering everything all the fittings tonight
 
#20 ·
how much power are looking to make? I guess I am curious to the small injectors with that turbo, and only a single fuel pump. (guessing you arent looking to max the turbo out or anything?)

I am running a complete fuel system as well, but I actually kept my stock fuel rail.

I am looking to make around 500whp and decided to add a bosche 044 inline to my set-up..

I am running
750cc injectors
1:1 rising rate after the rail
-6 an feed
-6 an return
both feed and return are braided steel
bottleneck fix
walbro 255 fuel pump.
and a fuel pump rewire
lots of lil an fittings and what not as well to make it all work of course :thumbsup:

I am actually hoping the 750cc will be big enough, so I just decided to get an additional fuel pump like I stated above. Just to make sure the walbro doesnt go out. after around 450-475whp.
 
#21 ·
^^ im almost in the same boat as far as fuel. im gonna have the same as you minus the inline (im actually selling an inline walbro 255) and rewire, but i have a boomba rail. i wanna see how far this setup will get me as ill probably go with a full blown intank setup around the end of this year. and im on a d60hta
 
#23 ·
Actually I'm using it to connect the -6 line to the stock fuel rail. And using a full -6 feed with a -4 return. Will find out how good it is today. Plus it is half the price of what AGP sells their fittings for, and does not require an addition fitting to attach the -6 line coming off the regulator.
 
#24 ·
Well I'd encourage you to post up a parts list in a new thread (****** Fuel?) so that people can follow your foot steps. I was contemplating adapting things to some of the stock parts but decided "sod it all" and build a new fuel system.
 
#27 ·
That's a good point! I should have listed it in the design goals... I am planning on running a solid state relay and lower gauge wire to the pump. I'm waiting on my Boost Box to arrive in the mail before doing a big "electronics" day (fix headlight halos/leds, wire up boost box, wire up fuel pump, route vacuum lines to solenoid/regulator/wga).
 
#30 ·
kool the main thing im interested in is the canister and what you do with the stock fpr and bnf. ive heard a couple ways of doing it but im curious to see your method and pics
 
#31 ·
#32 · (Edited)
Photos and draft of how-to complete. No fussin' about the dirty car! Please let me know if you run across any issues and I will amend/clarify the how to or parts list.

Fuel pump rewire parts list coming soon... expect it to come in around $75 tops with 10 gauge wire, fuse, protective loom, zipties, ring fitting for alt/ground, and solid state relay :clap:
 
#34 · (Edited)
You can:


Go cheap on the Rewire and use a non-solid state Relay, and you can skip the "in line fuse" cause we all want to die in a fire. With those corners cut you can do a rewire for around 15-20 bucks.


OR

You could do a small risk assessment and weigh the pro's of saving 40.00 versus the reliability of your fuel delivery system - Fair place to save 40.00, cause engines are CHEAP!


/Sarcasim off.


Really, are we reduced to this?

The formula still is:
Cheap or Fast or Reliable: You can have 2, pick wisely.


Cliff notes: You cheap fucks need to figure out where your going to save a buck, and I'd suggest you DIDNT do it on the fuel system. For fucks sake.


FYI: Completely Military specification parts + Mil spec wire = a Rewire kit with a retail of ~70.00, A cracked ringland average repair bill is 900.00, whats cheap now?


NachO
 
#35 ·
First of all i have an inline fuse on mine. I'm not stupid when installing electronics on my car without overcurrent protection. As far as the relay goes by the time i need to replace the non solid state relay I will have a completely new fuel system with no in tank pump and on a toggle switch.
 
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