Hey Folks, "MODERARTORS, THIS NEEDS TO BE A STICKY!"
I just installed my Aeromotive External Fuel System yesterday and I took some photos and want to share this with you. The total install time was about 9 hours. It would have went faster, but we took great care with the install especially with modifiying the tank with a pick-up.
Big turbo guys, this is the system for you. No more maxing out them injectors and time to get into the 30lbs or more range.
Parts included were the Aeromotive A1000 800hp pump, Aeromotive 10 micron aluminum filter assembly, Aeromotive Fuel Controller, -8 (1/2") steel braided fuel line, -6 (3/8") steel braided return line and the fittings. Listed below are the fittings you'll need to get the system online:
1. 4 -8AN 90 degree swivel hose end fittings
2. 1 -8AN straight hose end fitting
3. 1 -6AN straight hose end fitting
4. 1 -8 Bulkhead fitting w/nut and 2 -8 nylon washers
5. 1 -6 Bulkhead fitting w/nut and 2 -6 nylon washers
6. 2 -10 o-ring to -10 AN fittings
7. 1 -10 to -10 female union
8. 4 -10 o-ring to -8 reducers
9. 25 ft 1/2" aluminum tubing
10. 20 ft -8 steel braided line
11. 15 ft -6 steel braided line
12. -6 90 degree swivel hose end fitting
13. 1 pack zip ties
14. 2 -8 nuts and sleeves
15. 1 fitting for the FRP and Fuel Rail (this may be challenging for some with different rails and FPRs)
Note: I bought everything minus the tube bender, flare kit, master arm switch and cutter from
www.jegs.com The rest you can buy from autozone or sears.
Note: you will also need a hard line bender kit and a double flare kit and tube cutter.
Options: I installed a master arm switch hooked inline between the external fuel system and the factory system so I can have a redundant fuel system if Either were to go down. More on this later.
Now then, I took basic install picture of items of most importance. Some of the electrical items are common sense to those with experience, but I will explain briefly on how to do this yourself. All the these item concerning the fuel pump and controller are explained in detail with a schematic.
So here we go!
1st ensure before you do this install that you run your tank as empty as possible. I ran mine until the low warning fuel light started flashing. I then put the car on a lift, removed the passenger side tire, and took off the evac canister and lines. There is 2 10 mm bolts holding this canster in place. You'll need to remove the filler tube and vent hose from the tank and there is 2 other vent tubes to be removed. Then remove your return line if you have one, the electrical fuel pump connectors, and ground from the fuel filter. Then there are 2 13mm bolts that need to be removed from the 2 fuel tank straps that secure the tank in place. Then carefully remove the tank by pulling it back and then down.
Once the tank is out, you'll need some sort of device to remove the fuel system assembly ring. It's a large ring about 9 inches in diameter. It's on there tight but if you get the right tool, it will come off.
Next: take the fuel assembly out and have a fuel pan ready because the plastic fuel pump collector will be full of fuel. Dump it out and set it aside. Now you can pour out the excess fuel out of the tank.
Next: Remove your old retun line bulkhead fitting if yours is mounted in the cartridge face. I had a -4 on mine and I drilled the opening bigger to accomodate the bigger -6 bulkhead fitting. Make sure that you don't drill the hole to big. You don't want any leaks. Also, make sure you have those -6 nylon washers for extra sealment. Once the bulkhead fitting is installed, set the fuel assembly aside.
Next: Now it's time to drill the hole for the -8 bulhead fitting. I chose the corner just below and to the left of the main fuel assembly opening. You'll see there is a seam in the middle around the tank. Drill your hole just below the seam. Here is a pic
Note: Once again ensure that you drilled the hole smaller. I used a unibit for this. Once I got the hole where I wanted it, I took a socket and began screwing in the bulkhead fitting until it was flush with the tank. Don't forget them -8 nylon washers. Then take the -8 bulkhead nut and tightly secure the nut in place.
Next: Now it's time to make the pick tube and attach the low profile pick-up. I used 1/2" aluminum tubing for the pick up tube. Unfortunitally you have to buy 25ft of the stuff. It's sad since you'll only need about 3ft of it.
I then went to
www.fuelsafe.com and purchased there low profile pick up. This is an awesome piece and is designed to pick up off the bottom of the tank 360 degrees under high pressure. I'd venture to say under normal driving conditions, you'll be able to drive until the low warning light begins to flash.
WARNING: BECAUSE OUR TANK DOES NOT HAVE ANY BAFFLES OR FOAM, THE CHANCE OF FUEL STARVATION IS HIGH WHEN TANK IS LOW ON FUEL. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO DRAG RACE OR DO ROAD COURSE WORK WITH ANYTHING LOWER THAN A 1/4 TANK OF GAS.
Normal driving it should be fine, why? Because if you do starve, you won't be stressing the engine and it will just studder or run out of gas. So folks keep the fuel in there.
Now then, this low profile pick up comes with a -8 or -10 option. I got the -8 because that is enough for what we need. It will come with a -8 male AN fitting. So now you are ready to make the pick up tube. I cut about 4 ft to have extra, straightened it out and slid a -8 sleeve and nut on the tube. I then made a clean cut with the tube cutter and took the flare kit and made a nice double flare. Now before you do the other end, it's time to find out where in the tank you want to mount it.
There is a vent module mid way in the tank. I mount the pick up towards the rear and just behind the vent module. It is important to do this otherwise the factory fuel pump assmebly pick up will be your way. Here are some pics
In this pic, I just layed the pick up inside with the tube laying in the hole for reference and view
In this pick the pick up is positioned in place. See the vent module to the right. The pick up is mounted just behind it
Now then before you drill the hole for the low profile pick-up, it is important that you make the flare on the other end of the tube and connect it to the bulkhead fitting. Now, I had a special 90 degree air drill to get inside of the tank to ensure I got the hole drilled in the right place. THIS IS SO IMPORTANT BECAUSE THIS IS A ONE SHOT DEAL. SO MEASURE CORRECTLY OR DO WHAT I DID. Once you have your tube connected and your hole drilled, take some fuel resistant seal all and put some on the threads. Once again drill the hole smaller.
Here a picture of the low profile pick-up. It a perfect fit. Oh yea tighten the
-8 nut on the low profile pick up before you put it in the tank. That way it doesn't twist on you. Plus it's easier that way. Just make sure you get you angle right.
Now tighten the -8 nut on the bulkhead fitting. You'll need a 7/8 or 22mm wrench for this. Put a socket on the outside so it doesn't spin
This pic I put some really good epoxy to ensure more seal and weather protection from rust
Next: now that your done with the pick-up install, you can reinstall the factory fuel pump assembly. Ensure the cartridge ring is really tight. Note: the fuel pump assmebly only goes in one way. Now lets go and and install the pump, filter, fuel controller, master arm switch, and fuel/return lines
I chose the undercarrage where the spare sits to mount the pump. As you will see in the pics, you want the fuel filter to be situated in such a way that have a direct shot when installing the fuel line.
In this pic, I drilled a hole in the cross beam to allow easy access to the fuel line coming from the tank. Unfortunitaly, I didn't recieve the right fittings to show you the fuel line from the pump to the tank. You can make this hole with the unibit as well
Here is how you going to cut the stubborn steel braided line. Buy a wide headed all purpose chissel and take a large hammer to cut through the line. Take some duct tape and make a tight wrap around th line and take the chissel and cut in the middle of the duct tabe. It takes about 4 good swats and it will cut right through. Here's the pic
Now then, you are ready to install the straight and 90 degree hose end fittings. First unscrew the nut from the fitting and screw the nut on the end of the hose. There is a ridge line that you need to but the hose up against. It takes some effort and it may be neccessary to remove some tape to get it on. DO NOT REMOVE ALL OF THE TAPE BECAUSE THE STEEL BRAIDED LINE ENDS WILL CAUSE YOU ALL KIND OF PROBLEMS. Once the nut is on, then take some vasiline and coat the fitting end for easy entry and carefully screw in the fitting inside. It's flared and will take some effort. Once that is done then take 2 wrenches and tighten the nut and the fitting together. Make sure when doing this that the hose doesn't back out. Take a pen and make mark on the tape for reference. I have a pic of the nut but forgot to take a pic of the fitting.
Next: Now that now know how to install hose ends it's time to run the lines under the car. Take an do the -6 return line 1st. I started at the front of the car and ran the lines on from the toip and down under the car on the passenger side. If you have a Aermotive Fuel Pressure Regulator, you will need a -6 o-ring straight to -6 AN male fitting to screw under the FPR. I ran my return line under the intake runners for a clean look. Then lift the car and zip tie the line along the factory fuel line assembly about half way down the car and let it hang there. Don't zip tie it all the way just yet, because you'll need to measure the line, cut it, and install the -6 90 degree swivel hose end fitting to the line. Once that fitting is in place, you can zip-tie it in place.
Now depending on what fuel rail you have, you'll need to get the right fitting to fit in your rail with a -8 male. I have the Boomba so it was easy. This may become challenge with other rails but anything is possible.
Now do the same with the -8 main fuel line. Start from the front and work your way back.
Next: Here is where my ingenuity and thought process comes in play. Because I like having plan "A" and plan "B", I decided to install a bypass switch to have 2 redundant fuel systems. I did this by cutting the thicker green power wire on the connector that connects to the factory fuel pump assembly and cut it. I then connected the PCM end to one side of the switch and the connector end to other end of the switch.
The Aeromotive fuel controller will need a 12v ignition source from the PCM as well. So when you wire in one end of the master arm switch, ensure that you tie in the 12v source from the controller along with it. That way the controller will have the PCM and fuel relay to work from.
Now then, if for some reason my Aeromotive system goes tits-up, I can simply change the fitting from the fuel rail and hook the fuel line from the fuel rail to the factory fuel line, flip the switch , and pull the pump wire off the controller and I can be back on the road using the factory fuel system or visa versa. It's really up to you but here is the pic. The switch is just on the inside of the spare tire well towards the right rear of the car.
Now its time to put the tank back in and connect the return line, main fuel line and ziptie everything. Now you can put the EVAC canister, filler neck hose and all other hoses. Then replace the rear wheel and return the fuel to the tank. Oh yea make sure you have the master arm switch to the off position. That way you don't spew fuel out the factory hard line all over your motor. I taped mine shut so there is no accidental arming of the switch.
I jumped ahead on this, but you need to find a place for the fuel controller. I mounted mine on my 7 quart WI resevoir. It worked out perfect. I drilled a hole and placed a grommet to run the wires from the controller under the car. All directions are explained in detail with a diagram and schematic..So I won't go into detail...Here is a pic of the controller. I think it's clean and from the directions, the controller needs to be located no farther than 3ft from the pump.
Once you have mounted the controller, just hook up all the wires and you are ready to go. Because of the shortage of fittings on my behalf, I haven't had a chance to test the fuel system. More on that later. However, I have included in this how-to everything you need to get going. So when it is time to test the system, take a gas can and put the end of the main fuel line at the front of the car and test the system. It may be required to apply 12v direct to the pump. Here's the pic
Well that took 2 hours and I hope that this how-to was helpfull. If there are any questions, please feel free to PM or call me. I have a everything you need to know about the install. Enjoy
Super Steve
"Aeromotive External Fuel System Install" How-to by "Super Steve"
, hey super steve why did u buy pickup tube lol, u could have just made ur own 
"straight clownin" 
This is not Photoshop
Build it!!! Photo=Suzq044
Wood Frog's where the NW gets fast!!
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