why is my head welded? - Dodge SRT Forum
 
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-06-2013, 10:18 PM Thread Starter
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why is my head welded?



Yeah, that's about it, what is it? Backround is like always, my car was owned by a shop as their race car, so I always find random shit like this.
Thanks guys!
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-06-2013, 11:16 PM
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looks like they welded and drilled to change the orifice size for oil flow. That hole (with the camp cap in place) channels over to the hole right next to it, that feeds all the HLA's with oil. Most "oil restrictors" are installed here, looks like they choose to weld and drill to do the same.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-06-2013, 11:16 PM
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Have you tried calling the shop to ask
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-06-2013, 11:53 PM
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Re: why is my head welded?

Bob is correct that's the correct hole where the oil restrictor would go.

no, im not on FB
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-07-2013, 08:13 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by khaoSrt4 View Post
Have you tried calling the shop to ask
The shop sold it to a friend of mine for 9k. The car had so many problems that he was forced to sell it. I bought it for 3k and spent 3k undoing what the shop had done. I'm still finding shit, like welded rear control arm adjustments ect. So no. I don't call the shop for anything because I would just yell at them.
Some delights were, rear suspension rattle, it had a brake pad inside both rear drums, yes, a brake pad, they just threw one in each to try to get him to come back for diagnosis.
Overboost issues, why? they didn't have any solinoids hooked up. It ran 25psi like it was possesed by the devil.

I still get angry about how badly they modified this car, so any changes I see, I automatically fear.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-07-2013, 08:28 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by a853rox View Post
looks like they welded and drilled to change the orifice size for oil flow. That hole (with the camp cap in place) channels over to the hole right next to it, that feeds all the HLA's with oil. Most "oil restrictors" are installed here, looks like they choose to weld and drill to do the same.
Oh, so its just a dcr oil flow mod, cheaply. I can deal with that. The welds good and I've never had a problem all summer.


Question my oil pressure guage is bolted to the rear of the head, does this mod effect what my pressure readings are at? It currently says about 25 at idle.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-07-2013, 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by boostingbackwards View Post
Oh, so its just a dcr oil flow mod, cheaply. I can deal with that. The welds good and I've never had a problem all summer.


Question my oil pressure guage is bolted to the rear of the head, does this mod effect what my pressure readings are at? It currently says about 25 at idle.
Oil temp and weight of oil will impact the reading you will get. Thinner oil will show lower pressure readings, and thicker oil will show higher.

What's important is not so much what pressure it shows at idle, normally anything above 10-12psi is fine, but what it is at higher revs, say above 3500. If it plateaus and is below say 35-45psi, I don't anticipate any issues with lilfter over pump, but if you are seeing pressures above that, then you still may have some. Even if it is a higher reading, it won't hurt your motor perse, but you may have some valve bounce in the upper PRMs because of it, resulting in "choppy" dyno graphs up top. Does that make sense?

If that is the case, and you wanted to fix it, it would require you to resize that orifice to get the pressures you are after. What we do here is drill and tap the hole that is welded in your head (***Disclaimer, we do this on heads that are OUT of the car and can be cleaned throughly, do NOT do this in the car***) for 1/8NPT, take a 1/8NPT plug and drill an orifice through it (3/32 to 1/8 depending on the setup) and then install the plug in the tapped hole. This now becomes a perfectly regulated orifice, and will cost you at most $1.00 for the set screw, and be under $10 if you don't have the tap too.

-Bob
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-14-2013, 07:46 AM
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The setting is a mental office. JM is recorded for every one of the 13 scenes. I break down some other district it is like House not tallying supportive issues it has mental ones.
what?

go ahead...change yours too now; again
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-14-2013, 09:54 AM
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what?
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-16-2013, 12:40 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by a853rox View Post
Oil temp and weight of oil will impact the reading you will get. Thinner oil will show lower pressure readings, and thicker oil will show higher.

What's important is not so much what pressure it shows at idle, normally anything above 10-12psi is fine, but what it is at higher revs, say above 3500. If it plateaus and is below say 35-45psi, I don't anticipate any issues with lilfter over pump, but if you are seeing pressures above that, then you still may have some. Even if it is a higher reading, it won't hurt your motor perse, but you may have some valve bounce in the upper PRMs because of it, resulting in "choppy" dyno graphs up top. Does that make sense?

If that is the case, and you wanted to fix it, it would require you to resize that orifice to get the pressures you are after. What we do here is drill and tap the hole that is welded in your head (***Disclaimer, we do this on heads that are OUT of the car and can be cleaned throughly, do NOT do this in the car***) for 1/8NPT, take a 1/8NPT plug and drill an orifice through it (3/32 to 1/8 depending on the setup) and then install the plug in the tapped hole. This now becomes a perfectly regulated orifice, and will cost you at most $1.00 for the set screw, and be under $10 if you don't have the tap too.

-Bob
well my area of concern is not that it is to little for my needs, but to help explain an issue i had with the car, not so much an issue but a weird occurance, when i would rev, my oil pressure would go up normally, but stop at 35psi abouts. Is that because of the restrictor? I never took a bottom end reading, just from the back of the head.
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-16-2013, 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by boostingbackwards View Post
well my area of concern is not that it is to little for my needs, but to help explain an issue i had with the car, not so much an issue but a weird occurance, when i would rev, my oil pressure would go up normally, but stop at 35psi abouts. Is that because of the restrictor? I never took a bottom end reading, just from the back of the head.
Yes, a restrictor installed would work as you described.
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-17-2013, 06:33 PM
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personally i think the best place for monitoring oil pressue is the block not the head.
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-17-2013, 07:48 PM
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Is that a crack coming from the weld ,downward?

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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-18-2013, 11:15 PM
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Originally Posted by 1stneonrt View Post
personally i think the best place for monitoring oil pressue is the block not the head.
It would depend on what you were trying to gauge wouldn't it?

If you wanted overall oil pressure at the pump, then sure the block would be great. If you wanted to see what the oil pressure in the head was to measure what the HLA's were seeing for pressure, and to monitor them so they don't over pump with excessive oil pressure and cause valve bounce issues..... then you should have it in the head, and you should have read the whole thread too....
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-19-2013, 07:22 PM
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It would depend on what you were trying to gauge wouldn't it?

If you wanted overall oil pressure at the pump, then sure the block would be great. If you wanted to see what the oil pressure in the head was to measure what the HLA's were seeing for pressure, and to monitor them so they don't over pump with excessive oil pressure and cause valve bounce issues..... then you should have it in the head, and you should have read the whole thread too....
what does reading the whole thread have to do with me giving MY opinion with were the oil should be measured?
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