Who all had degreed there cams when putting them in?

[HCCAFan]

Quote: Originally Posted by CNCPORT.COM

The main issue most guys are going to have is:
Your working with a hydraulic lifter, which relies on oil pressure to stay pumped up and bleed off. When you degree any cam in (domestic or Sport Compact) you need to calculate the crank degrees in relation to the (Intake or Exhaust valve)opening and closing locations (sometimes at 0 lash, sometimes with 0.050 lash/opening).
With a lifter that collapses without the motor pumping oil thru it, its going to be tough to degree a cam in without a lifter thats been converted so it doesn't collapse.
Thats why most guys shy away from degreeing the SRT or Mitsu 4G motors.

Finding these numbers will help you calculate Overlap, and Centerline(sometimes known as high Lift) of the Intake Cam or Exhaust Cam. And Lobe Seperation.
When your building the same motor over and over again like DCR would, you learn where the sweat spot is for a specific cam. But there is so much that can effect that optimal location, IE Back Pressure, and Turbo Efficiency, What RPM you want to make peak HP/Torque, etc.
Its always nice to know tho where the cam is and what the motor likes. This will often tell you if you can go to a different style cam and gain more power.

When I was reading into how to do it I started seeing stuff about this and my head began to spin as I became dis-interested meaning I was getting lost. It did seem too hard to figure out with the lifters and stuff. Pulus I got to wondering if the thing you stick in the spark plug hole might vary depending on where you got it on the piston since we have the kinda trangle tops to our stock pistons.

[never2muchboost]

Quote: Originally Posted by HCCAFan

When I was reading into how to do it I started seeing stuff about this and my head began to spin as I became dis-interested meaning I was getting lost. It did seem too hard to figure out with the lifters and stuff. Pulus I got to wondering if the thing you stick in the spark plug hole might vary depending on where you got it on the piston since we have the kinda trangle tops to our stock pistons.

it doesnt matter where you measure on the top of the piston as long as it doesnt move from its spot.the limit of travel is the limit of travel regardless where you measure from

cnc brought up alot of valid info.one thing that is the same on every cam is the dowel holes that are on top of the cam at tdc.if you make a tool that holds those holes at a perfect 90* in relation to the deck you can set your cam timing to true tdc every time.

but like cnc said there are alot more variables involved and depending on what you do with the car is most important.a drag racer is going to want a different cam profile than an auto cross or road racer.the guys making turns will want to sacrifice a little top end for a gain in midrange ,even then it comes down to the driver as well..some guys are faster out turn than others and may need to advance exhaust a little more to make up for the slower transition out and lower rpm .same goes for a guy that drives his car on the street.he will want more midrange and the guy that just drag races will want to push the powerband way up top sacrificing the low and midrange.

bottom line is if you want to tune your cams for optimal performance then start at 0 and adjust according to what you feel is right.what is good for the goose is not always good for the gander

[HCCAFan]

I know it doesn't matter as long as you measure from the same spot on top of the piston but it was just another variable that scared me away from doing it. I'd go in with a friend and buy the kit and give it a try but they would have to be more knowledgeable than me.