Who all had degreed there cams when putting them in? - SRT Forums

turbo666 · 05-14-2008, 11:31 AM

I'm going to finish up my Crane 14 cam install tonight and I have a buddy from work who is coming over to help me degree them in. He's done this on several engines so I trust him, even though it's all been on OHV engines.

I did some research on here and I couldn't really find anyone who does this. Why not? I understand not every one has the tools, I don't. But if you do, or know someone who does or can help you I figure it's worth the extra bit of time to do. I'm know plenty of guys on here have made plenty of power without doing so, so obviously I'm not saying this is something mandetory.

Another reason I think this could be a good thing is because it will save you time and $$$ on the dyno. You'll know the cams are dialed in perfect and the only adjustments needed would be to shift your powerband if you desire it to be moved. (If I'm wrong on this PLEASE correct me. I'm learning here and I don't want to spread misinformation by any means.)

Any experts or even those with plenty of cam installs and dyno tuning cams under there belt chime in. Thanks!

HCCAFan · 05-14-2008, 11:41 AM

Never heard of it.

turbo666 · 05-14-2008, 11:44 AM

Google it. Lots of info.

onthedwnlow · 05-14-2008, 11:47 AM

as far as i know dcr is the only one that does it and i know what there settings are for crane 14's

bluerocket · 05-14-2008, 12:22 PM

I have asked the same question last week and havent gotten any replies.

turbo666 · 05-14-2008, 07:27 PM

Well plans didn't go as I thought they would. Couldn't get the tools to operate correctly and I had to get the car back together tonight. So as of now cams are still set at 0.

But I think this thread should spur some information to those for future cam installs. It seems to be limited, but if anybody has any post it up. Thanks!

Edgehold · 05-14-2008, 08:57 PM

I thought degreeing the cams meant that you zeroed them. No cam is perfect, so the grind could be off or the down pins could be just a little off. This would mean that the cams aren't truly at 0 degrees. You should always use adjustable cam gears, and tune the cams on the dyno, so that makes the process less critical since the variation is so small.

turbo666 · 05-14-2008, 09:04 PM

But if you tune the cams into there perfect location by using a degree wheel in dial indicator you are placing the cams exactly where they should be in reference to the crank. You still use adjustable cam gears to help set this. By doing this you save dyno time because your cams will already be in there most desirable location and horsepower gains will most likely be minimal. But you'll still have the option of moving your powerband around with the adjustable gears.

When I went to the DCR meet a few months back I was telly Darrell I was afraid if I got 14's that they would drop off up top. He mentioned that tuned correctly this won't be an issue and that they ALWAYS degree the cams when they install them.

turbo666 · 05-15-2008, 10:28 AM

Bump for info!

HCCAFan · 05-15-2008, 11:19 AM

What do you mean wouldn't operate correctly? I was looking at Cranes website for info on it. Considering purchasing the equipment to do it at this point just don't know where yet.

HCCAFan · 05-15-2008, 11:29 AM

Seems you can buy the Crane Tune-A-Cam kit from a number of places for 185 dollars. That's about what it would cost to get them tuned on a dyno. Seems like a sound investment if you are going to do a number of cams.

turbo666 · 05-15-2008, 12:26 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by HCCAFan

What do you mean wouldn't operate correctly? I was looking at Cranes website for info on it. Considering purchasing the equipment to do it at this point just don't know where yet.

Well I didn't have the puller to get my crank pully off. So the bolt we where using to thread into the crank kept coming loose whenever we'd turn the crank counter clockwise.

I will probably get one eventually just to have it. Your correct for sure about it being able to equal out to dyno cost. But with dynoing you have to worry about heat soak effecting numbers. Obviously you want to let it cool down inbetween pulls. But the longer you sit between pulls the more money you spend on time. I just would have preferred this method for myself, and I really think others should consider it. Maybe you and some friends can go in on the cost of the kit and you'll all get out cheaper both on the dyno and on the kit.

SpeedEuphoria · 05-15-2008, 01:09 PM

just buy a degree wheel from summit and the piston stop/indicator that someone else mentioned on here recently and a good dial indicator, posibly make a mount and arm for the dial indicator

this is from an older sohc dodge, but you can see the mount, ect..
Turbo Mopar Forums - Degreeing a cam

CNCPORT.COM · 05-15-2008, 04:26 PM

The main issue most guys are going to have is:
Your working with a hydraulic lifter, which relies on oil pressure to stay pumped up and bleed off. When you degree any cam in (domestic or Sport Compact) you need to calculate the crank degrees in relation to the (Intake or Exhaust valve)opening and closing locations (sometimes at 0 lash, sometimes with 0.050 lash/opening).
With a lifter that collapses without the motor pumping oil thru it, its going to be tough to degree a cam in without a lifter thats been converted so it doesn't collapse.
Thats why most guys shy away from degreeing the SRT or Mitsu 4G motors.

Finding these numbers will help you calculate Overlap, and Centerline(sometimes known as high Lift) of the Intake Cam or Exhaust Cam. And Lobe Seperation.
When your building the same motor over and over again like DCR would, you learn where the sweat spot is for a specific cam. But there is so much that can effect that optimal location, IE Back Pressure, and Turbo Efficiency, What RPM you want to make peak HP/Torque, etc.
Its always nice to know tho where the cam is and what the motor likes. This will often tell you if you can go to a different style cam and gain more power.

turbo666 · 05-15-2008, 09:06 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by SpeedEuphoria

just buy a degree wheel from summit and the piston stop/indicator that someone else mentioned on here recently and a good dial indicator, posibly make a mount and arm for the dial indicator

this is from an older sohc dodge, but you can see the mount, ect..
Turbo Mopar Forums - Degreeing a cam

Thanks man. I'll check it out, and hopefully others will as well.

Quote: Originally Posted by CNCPORT.COM

The main issue most guys are going to have is:
Your working with a hydraulic lifter, which relies on oil pressure to stay pumped up and bleed off. When you degree any cam in (domestic or Sport Compact) you need to calculate the crank degrees in relation to the (Intake or Exhaust valve)opening and closing locations (sometimes at 0 lash, sometimes with 0.050 lash/opening).
With a lifter that collapses without the motor pumping oil thru it, its going to be tough to degree a cam in without a lifter thats been converted so it doesn't collapse.
Thats why most guys shy away from degreeing the SRT or Mitsu 4G motors.

Finding these numbers will help you calculate Overlap, and Centerline(sometimes known as high Lift) of the Intake Cam or Exhaust Cam. And Lobe Seperation.
When your building the same motor over and over again like DCR would, you learn where the sweat spot is for a specific cam. But there is so much that can effect that optimal location, IE Back Pressure, and Turbo Efficiency, What RPM you want to make peak HP/Torque, etc.
Its always nice to know tho where the cam is and what the motor likes. This will often tell you if you can go to a different style cam and gain more power.

This is GREAT info! I'm glad I read this. Thanks guys!