I have BC stage 3 cams in my car now. Both cams are on 0 degrees. Where should I adjust them to spool faster? Or where to adjust for the most power? It does not lope that much.
I never understand this "take it to the dyno crap" not directed at anyone, but lets think for a second why there couldn't be some consistency between cars.....
Can't think of one. Turbo you might say? Well you either have a tiny turbo, a huge turbo, or something in between. But if we can say on a tiny turbo you need x amount of retard / advance, and with a big turbo you need x amount of retard /advance, can't we just interpolate the middle with a half a brain? Mechanically if one guy has a stock head and 50t, his settings will work for anyone with the same. If the power doesnt come out the same its because of a tune not because of anything else. If you argue against that, then you would be saying that a 236 duration cam with 600 lift and 112 centerline cam in a 350 chevy will be completely different in one block to the next...can't say i agree.
I mean when people are picking out cams, no one says "you should put it on the dyno to pick the right cam" there is a consistency between overlap, duration, and lift with each type of setup, surely there is the same between cam settings, which effectively change the duration and overlap. So whats the big friggin problem?
Guaranteed if everyone who has cams posted up their setup and where they setup their cams to, there will be a definite pattern.
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that being said, there is always going to be some tuneing you can do but "take it to the dyno" is just BS tuneing on a dyno will usuall net some top end HP at the expense of a ton of power band power () most teams tune cams to deal with problems at the track (not for the novice so dont even try) some examples would be loss of traction, not enough power for out of turns, expanding the RPM range (make sence now) BUT in the age of cheap made to order custom cams this tuneing has been minimized to just a degree or two (max)
SO WHY SELL ADJUSTABLE CAM GEARS
easy when you mill the head or deck the block YOU WILL NO LONGER BE ABLE TO GET STRAIGHT UP (0/0) so we use the gears to off set this (make sence)
The reason why there is a recommended supporting mods list for some cams (free flowing exhasut, ported head, ect) is because they are talking about the motor's VE. If you have a different intercooler, ported itake manifold, headwork, turbo setup, tubular ex mani, different exhasut setups, ect, you WILL have a different VE than what the cams were set up for... Hence the IDEAL situation is to set them at 0,0 then go validate them on a dyno. 9/10 you will need at least a little tweaking.
Even if you and your buddy has 'the same' setup, don't take his settings as the best for you. God only knows how many times I have seen similarly setup cars make vastly different power....
$.02
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that being said, there is always going to be some tuneing you can do but "take it to the dyno" is just BS tuneing on a dyno will usuall net some top end HP at the expense of a ton of power band power () most teams tune cams to deal with problems at the track (not for the novice so dont even try) some examples would be loss of traction, not enough power for out of turns, expanding the RPM range (make sence now) BUT in the age of cheap made to order custom cams this tuneing has been minimized to just a degree or two (max)
SO WHY SELL ADJUSTABLE CAM GEARS
easy when you mill the head or deck the block YOU WILL NO LONGER BE ABLE TO GET STRAIGHT UP (0/0) so we use the gears to off set this (make sence)
(easy when you mill the head or deck the block YOU WILL NO LONGER BE ABLE TO GET STRAIGHT UP (0/0) so we use the gears to off set this (make sence)
Thanks for all the help guys. As for my set up. 60 trim, 750 RC injector, E-Manage, ported intake, 60mm Lfs throttle, Race port head, over size valve, the deck was milled by 30, BC springs and retainers, 3 inch exhaust, no cats, boomba fuel rail, All fuel mods done, and or course BC stage 3 cams. Theres a lot more but these are the important ones.
The reason why there is a recommended supporting mods list for some cams (free flowing exhasut, ported head, ect) is because they are talking about the motor's VE. If you have a different intercooler, ported itake manifold, headwork, turbo setup, tubular ex mani, different exhasut setups, ect, you WILL have a different VE than what the cams were set up for... Hence the IDEAL situation is to set them at 0,0 then go validate them on a dyno. 9/10 you will need at least a little tweaking.
Even if you and your buddy has 'the same' setup, don't take his settings as the best for you. God only knows how many times I have seen similarly setup cars make vastly different power....
$.02
I agree 100% for picking the proper cam for your individual set up. I understand you guys can tag along with every costomer so a dyno may net some gains (but i stick with 0/0 and a proper set up and cam selection) but with the flow modeling programs you can determine within a 99% degree of acuracy what VE changes will occure with tuneing the cam. that said, tuneing the cam should be used to increase the cars performance on a certine track NOT dyno. you will see teams change cam timing for individual tracks and weather conditions.
tuneing cams on a dyno should only be done for a dyno queen, but the knowledge gained can be priceless for a race
so I dont disagree I just see it from a different stand point
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