I was wondering what a good cam would be for the agp s200 turbo. I will build my block and head down the road. I was looking at either the BC stage 2 or stage 3.
weill if you're forsure doing biggervalves/portwork on the head, id do the bc3's...or else youd just end up w/ unnecessary added lag and cams that cant be used to their full potential on the stock head.
I wanted to do cams on my engine rebuild. I just couldn't find what I was looking for. The bottomline is I did cam on my 1st gen neon, used nitrous grind crane cams, with the .364 lift on both side. The truth is I want a .345 lift intake cam & a .285 -.290 lift on the exhaust. I'm limited to a 6500rpms with my stg3, and those cams with the right lobe seperation and duration should be what the doctor ordered. I wanted cams that wouldn't destroy the bottomend, but pull through 6000rpms and tapper at 6500rpm.
srt4 cams make power from 2000-5500
2.0L dohc make power from 3000-6500
nitrous grinds make power from 3500ish-7500ish
this is all the cams I have driven on in the past 10years. Cams are a true case of bigger is not always better, especially on the boosted engine.
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Stg3 toys, ported head & intake, NX 4nozzle, progresser, wide ban, egt, fuel pressure, injen, samco, Mpx3", Maxxfab02,Greddy CC, Boomba's, AIS intercooler, STS, billet SS, .020 8-1 JE's, Eagle 4340 H beam rods, UDP, you name it I've done it Mopar Clutch
comparing my turbo (s258) to someone else w/ a similar setup, after comparing eachothers setups, only major difference was he was stock cams and i was crower s2 cams (basicially similar to bc3's). my full boost to his, was 300rpms slower... my gears at 0,0.
Thanks man, I guess I'll go with the BC3's and just start buying everything to build my head. Too bad they won't work with the stock springs and retainers
How hard is it to change the springs with the head still on.
It's a bit more difficult Once you remove the valve locks/retainer, the valve will just drop.
some old school guys would just stick nylon rope in the combustion chamber through the spark plug hole (leave some rope sticking out of the hole so that you can pull it out) and then move the cylinder up close to tdc.
Ive heard of compressing the cylinder with air to keep the valves closed, but I don't know how well that works in practice.
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STOCK: 233whp/248wtq (dynojet)
13.88 @ 101.1mph
STAGE 3 + bolt-ons, on 91 octane:
344whp/366wtq (dynojet)
11.9 @ 116mph (HOM with slicks)
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