valve seals?? smoke? - Page 2 - Dodge SRT Forum
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post #16 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-20-2013, 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by brettlongmore View Post
Mine was doing the exact same thing after I threw on a salvage yard head. The exhaust ports were covered in oil. It was the valve seals.
Smoking at decel coming to a stop and cruising when getting back on gas? You saw smoke?
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post #17 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-20-2013, 10:44 PM
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yes....leaving long stoplights
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Originally Posted by gunner133 View Post
Smoking at decel coming to a stop and cruising when getting back on gas? You saw smoke?
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post #18 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-20-2013, 10:55 PM
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When I come to a stop a big cloud of Smoke rolls past me...not when I take off really just when I stop
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post #19 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-20-2013, 11:10 PM
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sounds like turbo....what about if you have been driving for a while and sit at a long stoplight then take off?
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post #20 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-21-2013, 10:46 AM
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No it smoke as I come to a stop or if I tap gas while cruising. Not at wot. Also smokes if I rev it at idle....
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post #21 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-21-2013, 01:32 PM
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got much shaft play?
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post #22 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-21-2013, 09:38 PM
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Tiny in and out like a razor blade might fit in and same up Down left right

also.. I just noticed today... I sat at a light for a bit and when I went through the inter section it was fine no smoke but then I hit it wot and a big cloud of smoke came out..very dark cloud, like oil is puddling up in exhaust and when I hit it it blows it out...cause it is very abrupt and doesnt continue...only when i wot it...waited a few mins at light and when it happened was only for sec and it was gone I put it in 3rd hit wot nothing clear skys lol...gotta be pooling in exhaust I think...
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post #23 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-21-2013, 09:41 PM
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Sitting still must let it pool up...I also just rebuilt turbo chra but did not fix the problem..it continues to drive me nuts lol..
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post #24 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-21-2013, 09:46 PM
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I'm betting oil rings. Didn't read it all, but is compression good?

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post #25 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-21-2013, 11:05 PM
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Compression test 150 all cylinders
10% loss on leak down all cylinders
(oversized pistons forged)
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post #26 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-31-2013, 10:57 PM
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figure anything out yet?
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post #27 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-01-2013, 01:31 PM
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all signs point to valve seals... I've got replacements but I can't pull the motor to reset timing belt properly after I replace the seals... Any tips on how to do this with engine in car?
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post #28 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-03-2013, 01:15 PM
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are you replacing the belt/tensioner/idler? If you dont need to replace any of those there is no need to tear anything apart.
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post #29 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-03-2013, 01:17 PM
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If you do need to replace one or all of those.... I'm pretty sure second gen is the same basic procedure as first gen. Manual says to pull the exhaust but I never do. Pull the crank pulley, Pull power steering pump loose. Put a jack under the motor, pull the side mount off, raise the motor as high as it will go to pull two of the three motor mount bracket bolts, then drop it down as far as it will go to pull the bottom bolt out. Pull the timing covers. Thats the condensed version.
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post #30 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-03-2013, 01:25 PM
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Should add that you will need to rent a few tools from the part store if you dont have them. Specific kind of balancer puller, attachment to hook an air compressor hose to thread into the spark plug hole to hold the valves in place, and specific kind of valve spring compressor (old school kind won't fit). I don't think I have ever tried to replace valve seals on one of these with the head on but I'm sure its a real PITA because its not that much fun doing it even with the head off.
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