Starting to build my motor

[nomotivgirl]

So I bought a used block and had it cleaned up bored .20 over here's alist of parts I have currently
Je pistons
Eagle rods
Cometic headgasket
Arp headstuds
Knife edged crank
All new gaskets and seals
Oil pump
Water pump
Oil pan
Ported head
Cams
Fidanza cam gears
Return line kit
650 injectors
Valve cover
Oil squirters
Belts


I know I'm probably missing some things and will add as it comes up

What I need;
Crank strap kit
Clutch
Lifters

If anyone has any suggestions on to what else I need and what might make the swap easier please post up
Ill be posting pics and dyno results when things are done so folks get an idea what kind of numbers a built motor will put down

Thanks for your help

[turbojack]

You mentioned not having lifters but you did not mention anything about rockers. I would think you can use the stock lifters for anything thats not dedicated to racing at the track.

Talk to DCR to see how much to mod the pistons and pins. After sending them the rods and pistons you will get back the pistons installed on the rods with the rings ready to drop in. You may want to just call them to get the details why to do this. You may also want to get the their nuts and washers to use with the ARP head studs that you have.

Get a tapered piston installation tool sized for the bore. Getting rod bolt extensions compliments the tapered piston installation tool to make the install really really easy and fool proof.

Get a rod bolt stretch tool and use it instead of a torque wrench for the rod bolts.

Get crank scraper/windage tray and new oil pickup and a big filter kit and remove the balance shafts. Contact Aaron for a dipstick that will read correctly for 6 qts oil.

Timing belt and water pump and depending on the cams get the DCR tensioner.

Get the Mopar Green bedplate sealant and the Mopar black RTV. Use the bedplate sealant for the cam caps as well as the bedplate.

Get new bolts for the flexplate to the crank, and for the flexplate to the clutch. Get a New release fork. You may even want to take the tranny apart a little and at least inspect and maybe replace replace the 3-4 shift fork in the trans and the replace the syncro clip.

If the injectors being used have some miles on them send them to Deatschwerks (SP) to be checked and cleaned while the car is down for the engine swap.

[nomotivgirl]

Thanks for the help definitely removing the balanace shafts have a pick up tube

[JhSrt4]

i would get some bigger injectors.
unless your running a smaller turbo?

[babykat]

Quote: Originally Posted by turbojack

You mentioned not having lifters but you did not mention anything about rockers. I would think you can use the stock lifters for anything thats not dedicated to racing at the track.

Talk to DCR to see how much to mod the pistons and pins. After sending them the rods and pistons you will get back the pistons installed on the rods with the rings ready to drop in. You may want to just call them to get the details why to do this. You may also want to get the their nuts and washers to use with the ARP head studs that you have.

Get a tapered piston installation tool sized for the bore. Getting rod bolt extensions compliments the tapered piston installation tool to make the install really really easy and fool proof.

Get a rod bolt stretch tool and use it instead of a torque wrench for the rod bolts.
Get crank scraper/windage tray and new oil pickup and a big filter kit and remove the balance shafts. Contact Aaron for a dipstick that will read correctly for 6 qts oil.

Timing belt and water pump and depending on the cams get the DCR tensioner.

Get the Mopar Green bedplate sealant and the Mopar black RTV. Use the bedplate sealant for the cam caps as well as the bedplate.

Get new bolts for the flexplate to the crank, and for the flexplate to the clutch. Get a New release fork. You may even want to take the tranny apart a little and at least inspect and maybe replace replace the 3-4 shift fork in the trans and the replace the syncro clip.

If the injectors being used have some miles on them send them to Deatschwerks (SP) to be checked and cleaned while the car is down for the engine swap.

Use both of them. Instructions form eagle (rods I used) called for the bolts to be torqued down then measured with a bolt stretch tool.

[DDogsrt461BLK 3.0]

they tell you to torque them down, and either use a 1\4 turn of extra. The truth is on my build the engine builder did that. I got it back just crank, rods, piston, and block bolted together. You must use the green bedplate sealant on the bedplate, and all new hardware. There's 20 bolts that hold the pieces together, and then 4 bolts that hold the balance shafts on. When I built my engine, I used the same piece you did JE's & Eagle rod ESP's 4340. I installed the balance shafts, but I cut the chain. You don't need to do a windage, scrapper, or different pickup tube. Just reinstalll the balance shaft assembly minus the chain and you'll be golden.

[DDogsrt461BLK 3.0]

Get ready it's alot of work & money, I know.................

Breakdown Journey - Video

[nomotivgirl]

This week I'm going to see if I can get a local machine shop to do a crank strap kit and order a clutch

[kevinwarren240]

why run eagle rods when the brian crowers are the same price and alot better quality.

[rico's-srt]

visually, both eagle and briancrower are exactly the same