i tried searching and nothing much really came up
anyways i have a agp 50trim .63ar with some crane 14's at the time i didnt have adjustable cam gears, now i do my question is how hard is the process of switching them out and does it require any special tool?
also when tunning with these cams, the more they get adjusted does it affect how it lopes? not that i care about sound just curious
Yes it will effect lope. The less the better really.
You are going to have to do all of the crap to change a timing belt. Search that. Gonna have to get the timing cover off, motor mounts off the passenger side, gonna have to get the belts off, remove the bracket from hell, remove the harmonic balancer, let the tension off the timing belt, remove and install cam gears, set the timing, set the timing belt tensioner etc.
You are going to need to jack up and lower the engine to get to the bolts in the bracket from hell. Also gonna need a pretty big torx bit for the thru fender bolt. Need a gear puller for the harmonic balancer.
Also, my tip to you is to loosen the cam sprocket bolts before removing the timing belt.
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spend the $150 on the correct Dodge 2.4L harmonic balancer puller. Mine was off in less than 5 minutes without fubaring the threads like you read from other peoples threads from having/using the wrong puller.
It is about 8 hours 4 if you are good and have done it before. You will also need a dial indicator to set the cams or the DCR cam tool
You don't "need" to set the cams like that. You can but it's not a must. Also, I have pulled my balancer 5 or 6 times at least with a rental tool from advance, no problems.
ya but you have to admit...you have read plenty of threads about guys putting a smaller bolt into the crank snout, bending the shiat out of that bolt and fubaring the balancer threads b/c of it
Yes the rentals are fine, I was just VERY happy having the right tool for the car.
I disagree a little about setting the cams to the crank. I think this is best done on the bench not the dyno, presonal preference I know.
I was just giving OP my thoughts, lots of different ways to reach the same solution
Shit, I don't see why anyone would thread anything in there other than the bolt that came out of there. I never have had to.
Your way of setting the cams is probably best if you know what you are doing. Clearly though the OP is on a budget though since he has been rolling with stock gears on after market cams!
Your way of setting the cams is probably best if you know what you are doing. Clearly though the OP is on a budget though since he has been rolling with stock gears on after market cams!
I can relate to the budget thing
BUT think about this. ***$150 for the tool. Now the cams are set to exact cam spec card. Cams and crank are perfectly lined up and you can verify this visually. ***$150 for 3 dyno pulls. You max out the HP, but you have variables. Fuel, air temp, humidity, dyno brand.
again either way but for the money the tool might be the better option
true took me forever and lots of messages to DCR and others to understand it
but once it clicks it's not so bad again it will depend on OP abilities and time and money
I would just buy the miller tools(to pull and install) from the dealership.
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The purpose of ignition advance is to account for the lag time following spark ignition for combustion pressure to peak at 15 degrees AFTER TOP DEAD CENTER. A little fyi !
I have the puller from Miller and love it. I use it on my 2.0 & my 2.4.....as have many of my friends (they are all glad I bought it). It beats trying to use other pullers. So much less hassle. Definately a worth while purchase if you are going to be doing this often or have a group of friends with the same motor/platform
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