I started this thread in the ignition section but what I have figured out so far is this is possibly a problem with the cams and/or the magnet that tells the cam position sensor where the cam is at in it's rotation.
I bought some Crane 16s that are 2.0L cams and was told they would work fine. The only problem I am having so far is the car throws this P0016 code "camshaft/crankshaft misalignment" every time the car gets warmed up. It makes me think the timing is close to right but just a little off. I have found 30-50 threads where other people have thrown this code and besides the people that had obvious timing issues like jumped timing no one ever really says how they fixed it.
I know my timing is dead on.
I know my cam position sensor is fine because I swapped it and it still throws the code.
I doubt the crank position sensor just happened to go bad when I switched the cams.
I have seen 3 possible fixes and need opinions.
1. Cut the pins off the cam magnet and move it around til I don't get the code anymore.
2. Adjust the cam gears until I don't get the code anymore.
3. A friend of mine said that on the non SRT-4 Neons you can do a cam/crank relearn sequence. Is this possible on a SRT4?
It really sucks having a new head, clutch, cams, 50 trim, ported intake mani/TB etc and not being able to play with it because your car is stuck in limp mode. Someone help me out!
Just tried to drive it. All is ok until it gets to operating temperature. Then it throws the code. Also if you reset the PCM and start it while it's hot it immediately throws the code. It has to have something to do with open/closed loop.
did you compare the new cams with the old, to make sure that the pins that ride in the cam gears is in the correct position? Some 2.0 dohc require that 1 cam is 180 degrees from the stock srt4 specs. Also note, that the cam magnet, may be the same issue. There should be 2 holes at the cam magnet end, 180 degrees off from each other. you either have the cams out of phase, or the magnet is out of phase.
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I got's a fuel cell......................what you got?
did you compare the new cams with the old, to make sure that the pins that ride in the cam gears is in the correct position? Some 2.0 dohc require that 1 cam is 180 degrees from the stock srt4 specs. Also note, that the cam magnet, may be the same issue. There should be 2 holes at the cam magnet end, 180 degrees off from each other. you either have the cams out of phase, or the magnet is out of phase.
I pointed the holes that are in the cam itself up in the air to know which way way was up for sure making the intake cam's index pin go up and the exhaust cams pin go down when at TDC. That's what Aaronneon told me to do. As far as the magnet goes, it only goes one way. Those 2 alignment pins on the back of it are off center so you can only put it in one way. The only way to be able to move it around is to shave those off as far as I can tell. I saw someone else claim they had theirs upside down and thought this was gonna be an easy fix but I now think they were full of shit. They only go one way so how can you flip it?
I pointed the holes that are in the cam itself up in the air to know which way way was up for sure making the intake cam's index pin go up and the exhaust cams pin go down when at TDC. That's what Aaronneon told me to do. As far as the magnet goes, it only goes one way. Those 2 alignment pins on the back of it are off center so you can only put it in one way. The only way to be able to move it around is to shave those off as far as I can tell. I saw someone else claim they had theirs upside down and thought this was gonna be an easy fix but I now think they were full of shit. They only go one way so how can you flip it?
on 2.0 dohc the intake cam the pin points upward, so that's correct.
Wrong, the cam magnet has 2 setting. You need to have the engine at TDC, and the little mark in the cam magnet needs to be at around 4-5 pm if you look at it when installed on intake cam. Trust me, your cam magnet slit needs to be around 5 o'clock. Go look, I bet it's off.
on 2.0 dohc the intake cam the pin points upward, so that's correct.
Wrong, the cam magnet has 2 setting. You need to have the engine at TDC, and the little mark in the cam magnet needs to be at around 4-5 pm if you look at it when installed on intake cam. Trust me, your cam magnet slit needs to be around 5 o'clock. Go look, I bet it's off.
So I fixed it I think. Now on to the next problem. A 50 trim that doesn't boost...
The fix was:
I sawed off the tabs/pins/keys/nipples whatever you want to call them on the back of the cam magnet. I then just started it out about 1/2 a turn counter-clockwise from where it was supposed to be. Started the car and threw some code about the coil that made the car not start again. I went to rotate it a little clockwise and the screw that holds it in grabbed on the magnet and made it spin a lot farther than I wanted. Not believing this was gonna work I went ahead and tightened it down where it was. Got back in the car, turned the key and it started and sounded like a SRT-4 instead of a tractor for the first time in almost a month now. No more P0016 code for now anyway. Drove it for about an hour and still no code.
Now my problem is no boost. The car feels like a car with the interccoler hose blown off yet it isn't. Guess it's time for a new thread.
So I fixed it I think. Now on to the next problem. A 50 trim that doesn't boost...
The fix was:
I sawed off the tabs/pins/keys/nipples whatever you want to call them on the back of the cam magnet. I then just started it out about 1/2 a turn counter-clockwise from where it was supposed to be. Started the car and threw some code about the coil that made the car not start again. I went to rotate it a little clockwise and the screw that holds it in grabbed on the magnet and made it spin a lot farther than I wanted. Not believing this was gonna work I went ahead and tightened it down where it was. Got back in the car, turned the key and it started and sounded like a SRT-4 instead of a tractor for the first time in almost a month now. No more P0016 code for now anyway. Drove it for about an hour and still no code.
Now my problem is no boost. The car feels like a car with the interccoler hose blown off yet it isn't. Guess it's time for a new thread.
double check all vacuum lines. especially the one going to compressor housing.
double check all vacuum lines. especially the one going to compressor housing.
The one going to the compressor housing only goes to the bottom nipple on the wastegate I thought. I tried hooking that directly, putting a bleed on it, tying it into the nipple on top, leaving it off...none of it made any boost. I just had the wife rev the car while I had my hand on the dump tube to see if all the exhaust was getting vented and there was nothing coming out of it.
The one going to the compressor housing only goes to the bottom nipple on the wastegate I thought. I tried hooking that directly, putting a bleed on it, tying it into the nipple on top, leaving it off...none of it made any boost. I just had the wife rev the car while I had my hand on the dump tube to see if all the exhaust was getting vented and there was nothing coming out of it.
what spring are you running in wastegate? shouldn't be building that much boost at idle or any venting reving on it. this doesn't sound like a wastegate problem. what pipes do you have upper where blow off valve is?
what spring are you running in wastegate? shouldn't be building that much boost at idle or any venting reving on it. this doesn't sound like a wastegate problem. what pipes do you have upper where blow off valve is?
Yeah it wasn't a wastegate problem. I guess one of the 20-30 times I had to jack up the motor I pulled the hotside pipe off the intercooler. Good lookin out though!
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P0016 Code Crane 16 problems
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