The cam removal and installation guide covers most of the details that are required for doing a complete head removal and installation but I need just a few more details. Here's what I need:
Head bolt torque pattern (pounds, pattern, and final x degree turn etc)
Intake manifold torque specs
Exhaust manifold torque specs
Three Dealerships have given me the run-around and won't tell me the specs so hopefully somebody here will help me out. I have the head on and ready for torqing so the sooner the better.
THANX A MILLION!
See below for the torque information. A detailed head removal/installation supplement to the camshaft removal/installation sticky will be added in the near future. I'm too busy actually doing a head removal/installation to do the write up on it this week but I will get to it soon (along with pictures for this and the tips below. For now, here are the spec along with a few pointers.
Quote: Originally Posted by Shifty
Head:
First: All to 34 N·m (25 ft. lbs.)
Second: All to 82 N·m (60 ft. lbs.)
Third: All to 82 N·m (60 ft. lbs.)
CAUTION: Do not use a torque wrench for the Fourth step.
Fourth: Turn all bolts an additional 1/4 Turn
Exhuast Manifold:
Gradually tighten fasteners, starting at center and progressing outward in both directions to 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.)
Intake Manifold:
No senquence Install intake manifold. Tighten fasteners to 23 N·m (200 in. lbs.).
- Turbo/Manifold Removal Tip: If you plan on removing the turbo/manifold (ie. you aren't going to take the shortcut and just unbolt it from the head) you might want to remove the axles, alternator, and oil filter adapter first. You can also unbolt the power steering fluid cooler and push it off to the side. This will make it much easier to get at all those nicely heat treated and rusted bolts holding everything together. This also provides a good opportunity to change the transmission fluid. NOTE: If you aren't going to change the tranny fluid, you can still remove the axles, but you will want to buy special plugs that you can push into the differential to stop all the fluid from coming out. Its a bit messy but if you're quick you can keep most of your fluid in. (Lisle part # 23400 is a set of these plugs of all different sizes)
- Crank Pulley Removal Tip: All you need is a 3 jaw puller and a bolt. First, remove the bolt holding the crank pulley in place (you will want to use an impact wrench to do this). Then, you will want to place a bolt slightly smaller then the crank pulley bolt, and long enough to bottom out and still stick out an inch, in the hole where the crank pulley bolt was (I will post the best length to use once I get around to measuring the one I have at home). To make it easier, you can also take a drill to the head of the bolt and make a small notch in the center so the puller stays centered on the bolt. Place the jaws of the puller through the holes in the pulley, having it grab onto the center section of the pulley (Most large pullers will not fit so make sure you have a medium to small sized puller for this to work). If you place the jaws on the outside edge of the pulley, it will bend the pulley, which is bad. Tighten the bolt on the puller, lining it up with the bolt you have placed in the crank pulley bolt hole. As you tighten the puller bolt, it will slowly pull the crank pulley off of the crankshaft. If you have the perfect sized bolt, and made a notch in the top, hold onto it, as it may come in handy the next time you feel like ripping your motor apart.
- Camshaft Removal Tip: If you have everything taken apart, you don't need to jack the engine up in order to slide the camshafts out as long as you don't mind getting rid of part of your timing belt cover. All you have to do is cut 4 straight lines from the camshafts straight to the top of the cover, making two slots in the cover that allow you to pull the camshafts straight up and off of the head. You can remove as much or as little of the cover as possible, however, making two very narrow slots, just big enough to fit the cams through, will allow you to maintain as much protection for your timing belt as possible. I personally prefer usign a dremel type tool with a soft metal polishing disc as this will still cut through plastic but wont damage the surrounding parts too much if you happen to get a little too excited.
- General Tip: If this is the first time you're taking your car apart and you're worried about doing something wrong, use these tips to help make things go smoother. First, grab a roll of masking tape and a permanent marker. Every time you take something apart that you might get confused about later, write a note on some masking tape that will remind you how to put it back together, and attatch it directly to the part (for example - into sensor on top of intake manifold). Next, grab a large piece of cardboard. Every time you take a bolt off, stick it through the cardboard and write a note on the cardboard next to it reminding you where it goes. This tip works well, even for us veterans, so that we don't misplace a bolt, although we might not need the note next to it reminding us where it goes.
__________________
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Last edited by snetphilie : 12-21-2005 at 11:55 AM.
Reason: Added content
First: All to 34 N·m (25 ft. lbs.)
Second: All to 82 N·m (60 ft. lbs.)
Third: All to 82 N·m (60 ft. lbs.)
CAUTION: Do not use a torque wrench for the Fourth step.
WOW!!! What are you, a shop manager or somethin? (and if so, did you blow off a customer for 5 minutes while you looked this up ROFL) I'll call up my friends in Denham Springs to drive over to your place and shake your hand for me
Note to all... I might just take some time this week to do a writeup on head removal/installation. I might even throw in some information on porting and polishing!!!
Well... now I gotta finish putting my baby back together. I took her apart after 72,000 miles of way too much city traffic and way too little WOT. Mobil 1 and Royal Purple have left the head components and cylinder walls looking new (no oil buildup or anything anywhere!). Not having a catch can, however, has left the throttle body, intake mani, and chamber quite dirty however. I took it apart just to clean and inspect and now I will be putting it back together with the addition of a catch can, custom CAI, UDP, and Forge WGA. WISH ME LUCK!
WOW!!! What are you, a shop manager or somethin? (and if so, did you blow off a customer for 5 minutes while you looked this up ROFL) I'll call up my friends in Denham Springs to drive over to your place and shake your hand for me
Note to all... I might just take some time this week to do a writeup on head removal/installation. I might even throw in some information on porting and polishing!!!
Well... now I gotta finish putting my baby back together. I took her apart after 72,000 miles of way too much city traffic and way too little WOT. Mobil 1 and Royal Purple have left the head components and cylinder walls looking new (no oil buildup or anything anywhere!). Not having a catch can, however, has left the throttle body, intake mani, and chamber quite dirty however. I took it apart just to clean and inspect and now I will be putting it back together with the addition of a catch can, custom CAI, UDP, and Forge WGA. WISH ME LUCK!
Just ur friendly neighborhood , ASE Ceritified Master Tech , and DCX Automotive Technician . shhh tell no one ! I heard some of the locals on the board want to burn us alive . So now i must run and hide .
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INFO: Head Bolt Torque #'s and Pattern
Linear Mode
