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Old 10-26-2009, 04:00 PM   #106 (permalink)
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bump....updates
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Old 10-27-2009, 03:40 PM   #107 (permalink)
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^^^x2
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Old 10-27-2009, 04:24 PM   #108 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by joshiepoogoose View Post
to my understanding that is how it is run. how do you plan on getting the oil back into the block? Buschur runs theirs through the oil dipstick tube

True, Buschur's Evo setup has a modified dipstick tube. But it would be the same just running the line from the bottom of the catch can, to the oil pan.

Buschur also SUGGESTS taking the filter off the top of their catch can, and running a tube from the top of the catch can, to the intake pipe pre-turbo.

And here are just my thoughts on what I have been able to read in this thread...

How much loss would there honestly be because of "oil vapors" getting back into the intake, engine, etc? I think miniscule.

I honestly don't know how much oil would be getting out of the catch can and going into the intake pipe. But, there's gotta be some crankcase pressure forces pulling most (if not all) of the oil back into the oil pan. Or else why would they suggest running a tube from the top of the catch can, to the intake pre-turbo? Maybe I'm confused here. Would a PCV valve be needed in the line from the catch can to the intake pipe pre-turbo?

The diagram created is what Buschurs setup consists of. But it's not really rocket science what they came up with. A friend of mine had the same setup in his 700+hp DSM well before Buschur came to the market with their offering.

But I'm gathering that you guys just want to get rid of the vapors, etc. So then I guess a setup plumbed to the exhaust would be the only way to do that. But, if Buschur has put their setup (which has proven to free up horsepower) on multiple 600+hp Evo's... then why make the setup more complicated?

I know there are people on here with more knowledge than myself, so I just gave my opinion. I will leave it at that.
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Old 10-27-2009, 10:05 PM   #109 (permalink)
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Just got a nipple welded onto my 4" AGP intake pipe, going to run that to a catch can, then back to the VC nipple.

Then have my PCV ran with a catch can in line.

My question is, where, if any, does a check valve need to go?
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Old 10-28-2009, 01:26 AM   #110 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by SY04SRT4 View Post
Sorry for the crappy pics, my camera sucks and the nice one is broke now thanks to my GF... Don't have $ for a new one now.

This is the first one I mocked up from a new spare one thanks to Ke (UAL_Kingpin). I may end up re-doing it, but I will know this weekend. The fittings are aluminum and just tigged on the cheap. No cleanup on anything yet etc. Welding on the cast VC tends to bring out all the black imperfections etc. The one on the PCV side is -10 and the other is -6. The side where the nipple was is a major PITA to get a fitting in and even worse to weld. I had to have the AN fitting's base lathed smaller to fit in the first ridge. The nipple does just pull out BTW for those wondering. I originally measured based on trying to tap and thread fittings in and it just wouldn't work. Would have cost way more to buy appropriate bits and taps and would have left very little metal in places. If you want to stay stock locations welding is your only option with this VC.






I know I'm commenting on an old post here and didn't read the rest of this thread yet, but you can run in the stock location without welding. I went to the shop and had them pull the nipple out for me. Sandblasted the valve cover to get it all cleaned up and then used a 1/4" npt tap for it. Worked perfectly
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Old 10-29-2009, 08:19 PM   #111 (permalink)
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Any more info on the exhaust route?
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Old 11-01-2009, 06:11 AM   #112 (permalink)
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Im a little bit concerned about the pass side -10 fitting. Is it going to clear the hood???

I already have a dent in my hood from a fuel line now i dont want another.
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