Update... Here are the pics of the downpipe with the nipple welded in. The stainless DP is from Scott. Just popped in a 1/2" hole and oval-ed it out with a carbide. Went through the SS tubing like a hot knife through butter! Evac nipple is just past last 02 bung off angle. This puts the check valve right above the cross-member on the driver side where there is plenty of dead space. Used a second nipple (pictured) just to get the correct angle. Ignore the O2 it was just there for mockup and seeing where everything ended up inside the pipe. Just waiting on some stuff to show up from Summit and it will be running!! [fingers crossed!!]
nice, dude i am freaking stokes to see the results
do you think its OK to have the check valve that close (heat problems)?
are those "off the shelf parts" no special slash cuts or anything you did ??
are you going to try to put a vac gauge on it (please do) ?
are you using 1 or 2 evac's?
what R U using for the plumbing?
Question, what if you ran a SS line off that pipe, then installed that oval piece?
Also, where does that line run to? I skimed over this thread and im trying to piece a set up like this together.
Out of left field, what if you were to add a port on the block(near the oil pan) for ventilation as well?? I had a thread a while back about running the oil return from the turbo to the oil pan, and then running a AN line from the stock oil return on the block to a catch can / breather. Just some ideas.
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The purpose of ignition advance is to account for the lag time following spark ignition for combustion pressure to peak at 15 degrees AFTER TOP DEAD CENTER. A little fyi !
my buddy built an engine last week and he has the valve cover tapped too...
he hasnt answered message yet, so im waiting to hear why he did it. but i think it has a lot to do with what everyone is saying about running higher boost and wanting vacuum to keep the oil vapors lower.
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BC Stage 2 Cams BC Springs and Retainers Fidanza Cam Gears Msd Coil Msd Wires Agp Hard Pipes Agp WGA Perrin SRI Mpx TBE Single Exit Mpx FMIC Mpx Heat Shield Turbo XS Rfl BOV Eibach SportLine Springs 17" Tenzo R DC 6.... Internal Motor Work Done By Turbo666
my buddy built an engine last week and he has the valve cover tapped too...
he hasnt answered message yet, so im waiting to hear why he did it. but i think it has a lot to do with what everyone is saying about running higher boost and wanting vacuum to keep the oil vapors lower.
yea fully built b18c... his last project car got him over 600whp. he ran low 9's if im not mistaken... im still curious about the valve cover being tapped though. ill post it up as soon as he tells me.
Yea, I'm sure it will put some power down. I used to have a built H2B hatch and I traded it for my SRT 4. The tapped valve cover wouldn't be a bad idea, I'm sure it will allow it to vent better than the factory setup. Really all you would have to do is do 2 10n ran to a oil catch can and be done, you don't have to have vacuum on the bottom end, but it would benefit you.
Quote: Originally Posted by wowwowweewhoa
yea fully built b18c... his last project car got him over 600whp. he ran low 9's if im not mistaken... im still curious about the valve cover being tapped though. ill post it up as soon as he tells me.
Thank's for the comments guys. I am excited to see how it works out too.
nutz...
- I thought about remote mounting the check valve and may end up doing that. I have a spare one so we'll see. The way it's mounted now is how 99.9% of the cars I have seen with this setup do it. It's also how Moroso/Mr. Gasket/Summit say to mount it. The check valve is specific to this application so it should be ok for the heat, we'll see!
- All off the shelf parts, stock 45 deg slash etc. You can buy these parts as a kit for $40 or individually. Edelbrock even makes a SS nipple. I went on the cheap! Check here: Search Results for crankcase evacuation - SummitRacing.com
- I plan on somehow testing it with a gauge for sure!
- 1 Evac nipple in the downpipe will go to 2 fittings on the valve cover...In factory spots utilizing stock baffles. You could use 2 I guess but would be another big oval hole in the downpipe.
- For plumping I have had a hard time deciding on what to do. It needs to be able to take the heat and I want it all easy to connect with AN fittings. Stainless would just take to much heat and make the inside rubber hose mush! Probably wouldn't last long IMO. I am going to use 5/8" silicone heater hose with -10 AN pushlock fittings. It should work great! Did a similar thing with my turbo water lines, 3/8" silicone heater hose and -6 pushlocks!
Supermech...
- I think you mean remote mount the check valve? I may end up trying that we'll see.
- The line will run to a Y or T adapter somewhere and then to the 2 ports welded on the valve cover.
- Idea's out of left field are never bad man!!! I have never seen anyone try this though for evacuation. Maybe it's been done. Most engines I have seen where anyone goes that nuts is most likely going to be dry sumped or something...
wowwowweewhoa...
Nice...that's a big snail! Most of the Honda guys just use a breather tank from what I have seen. That's probably what he is doing. Looks like he just used a brass hose barb from the hardware store though. I have seen a few drag Honda's using exhaust.
Thank's for the comments guys. I am excited to see how it works out too.
nutz...
- I thought about remote mounting the check valve and may end up doing that. I have a spare one so we'll see. The way it's mounted now is how 99.9% of the cars I have seen with this setup do it. It's also how Moroso/Mr. Gasket/Summit say to mount it. The check valve is specific to this application so it should be ok for the heat, we'll see!
- All off the shelf parts, stock 45 deg slash etc. You can buy these parts as a kit for $40 or individually. Edelbrock even makes a SS nipple. I went on the cheap! Check here: Search Results for crankcase evacuation - SummitRacing.com
- I plan on somehow testing it with a gauge for sure!
- 1 Evac nipple in the downpipe will go to 2 fittings on the valve cover...In factory spots utilizing stock baffles. You could use 2 I guess but would be another big oval hole in the downpipe.
- For plumping I have had a hard time deciding on what to do. It needs to be able to take the heat and I want it all easy to connect with AN fittings. Stainless would just take to much heat and make the inside rubber hose mush! Probably wouldn't last long IMO. I am going to use 5/8" silicone heater hose with -10 AN pushlock fittings. It should work great! Did a similar thing with my turbo water lines, 3/8" silicone heater hose and -6 pushlocks!
Supermech...
- I think you mean remote mount the check valve? I may end up trying that we'll see.
- The line will run to a Y or T adapter somewhere and then to the 2 ports welded on the valve cover.
- Idea's out of left field are never bad man!!! I have never seen anyone try this though for evacuation. Maybe it's been done. Most engines I have seen where anyone goes that nuts is most likely going to be dry sumped or something...
wowwowweewhoa...
Nice...that's a big snail! Most of the Honda guys just use a breather tank from what I have seen. That's probably what he is doing. Looks like he just used a brass hose barb from the hardware store though. I have seen a few drag Honda's using exhaust.
so chad,
the taps on the valve cover will go to the check valve on the dp?
Yeah exactly!!! Super simple. Here is a VERY simplified pic of it on a Super Comp RED...The angle is not correct on this pic though...but it shows the whole setup simplified.
Yeah exactly!!! Super simple. Here is a VERY simplified pic of it on a Super Comp RED...The angle is not correct on this pic though...but it shows the whole setup simplified.
thats fucking pimp. i have my built motor out on the crate so i was thinking about doing this before i put her in. thanks for the pic's because now i have a clear idea on things.
so are you going to end up going from the valve cover to a Y fitting then to the dp?
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etc...
, it should put down some nice numbers.
New turbo setup and transmission setup
Linear Mode
