Straightedge and feeler gauges. Do the straightedge diagonal from the lower left corner of the head to the upper right, then upper left to lower right, then straight down the middle. At each position try to wiggle a feeler gauge under the straightedge.
Most machine shops should be able to check it also
Straightedge and feeler gauges. Do the straightedge diagonal from the lower left corner of the head to the upper right, then upper left to lower right, then straight down the middle. At each position try to wiggle a feeler gauge under the straightedge.
Most machine shops should be able to check it also
Ok thanks.
What about valves guides? Do I need some?
Last edited by 99dohcneon : 07-01-2009 at 11:38 PM.
was there any bent valves? the valve guides should be just fine. if you want a machine shop to check them and if needed de-burr them im sure they will, but i don't see valve guides really getting replaced much.
How did you bend the valves, and where did they bend? If ANY valve STEM was bent about 1/4" above the valve, get the head checked by a machine shop, as some of the guides may need replacing. Also, if any of the valves had to be forcibly removed, get the guides checked
To check the valve stem, roll them on the edge of a flat surface by hand.
Last edited by BDCarrillo : 07-02-2009 at 07:16 AM.
How did you bend the valves, and where did they bend? If ANY valve STEM was bent about 1/4" above the valve, get the head checked by a machine shop, as some of the guides may need replacing. Also, if any of the valves had to be forcibly removed, get the guides checked
To check the valve stem, roll them on the edge of a flat surface by hand.
Timing belt broke. Ill have to look and see. They are barely bent. I think they bent towards the bottem. Compression was 0, 150, 160, 160. They came out easy no force was needed.
Timing belt broke. Ill have to look and see. They are barely bent. I think they bent towards the bottem. Compression was 0, 150, 160, 160. They came out easy no force was needed.
Then you OUGHT to be good. As a test, lightly lube a new valve stem and stick it in the guide from the top, without the seal in place. Make sure it's all the way in the guide, and try gently wiggling it in all directions. If all the guides have the same amount of "wiggle" room (if any) then they should be good.
Also, use a bright light and look for scoring or evidence of abrasion in the guide itself.
Since the valves bent towards the bottom, you can also look for small chamfers worn in the guide from the bent stem, looking at it from the combustion chamber side.
If all of those tests come out OK, then they should be just fine.
Last edited by BDCarrillo : 07-02-2009 at 11:58 AM.
Then you OUGHT to be good. As a test, lightly lube a new valve stem and stick it in the guide from the top, without the seal in place. Make sure it's all the way in the guide, and try gently wiggling it in all directions. If all the guides have the same amount of "wiggle" room (if any) then they should be good.
Also, use a bright light and look for scoring or evidence of abrasion in the guide itself.
Since the valves bent towards the bottom, you can also look for small chamfers worn in the guide from the bent stem, looking at it from the combustion chamber side.
If all of those tests come out OK, then they should be just fine.
Alright thanks.
What kind of valve spring compressors do you use on these heads?
lucky i had a friend who was a dodge tech he let me use thier valve spring compressor. it was made specifically for our heads.. im sure a machine shop would have a valve spring compressor to help you remove the springs.
lucky i had a friend who was a dodge tech he let me use thier valve spring compressor. it was made specifically for our heads.. im sure a machine shop would have a valve spring compressor to help you remove the springs.
I got the springs out. I just have to get them in. (hammer) I seen people use a $20 craftsman one and they added a socked with a window in it. It works good from what I hear. I was seeing if there was another way.
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