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CEL pulled codes P0300 and P0315

7K views 5 replies 3 participants last post by  mrgray03 
#1 ·
CEL went on today for the second time in 3 weeks and a few min later, I felt a loss of power and the light started to blink. Pulled over, and a friend of mine came over and pulled those two codes P0300 and P0315

He suspected that if I replace the Position Sensor that it will take care of the P0300 code. With your expertise, is a normal fix is to just replace the CrankShaft Position Sensor or do you think there are other things going on?

Currently have 113K mi and Timing Belt replaced at 97k.

Also, while Im here, and its a side note...

I had the radiator replaced last year and Im in San Diego, and noticed on hot days the radiator temp goes to 220F It never did that prior to the new radiator. A friend of mine said it could be something as simple as air and if I open up the radiator cam and run the engine, the air bubbles will come out fixing the problem. Of course I dont believe him so I havent done it. Is that just replacing the thermometer?

Thanks in advance and have a Happy Easter.

Javier
 
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#3 ·
with those 2 codes that points you to cam shaft sensor. Make sure to use legit mopar parts and get both the sensor and the magnet. Pretty easy fix. If it doesn't fix it then you may have an issue in the wiring or in the PCM itself. I'm assuming you already pulled the connector out and inspected it and re-attached

As far as air in your system, what you do is with car cooled down open your coolant cap and top it off. Next give the radiator hose a couple of squeezes until you don't see air bubbles coming out. Make sure you have some coolant in your coolant overflow and tighten cap. Idle your car until it warms to operating temp. Check around coolant lines for leaks, there may be a small leak that is allowing air in your system-especially check the hose connection from the Tstat body going to the overflow, I've had small leaks there before. Turn car off and let it cool down-when it does this it will pull the coolant from your overflow and re-fill your system. The system is self-bleeding, as long as you have coolant in your reservoir and there are no leaks.
 
#4 ·
Both Camshaft and Crankshaft position sensors were replaced, the codes were cleared and no other problems so far.

As far as the air in the radiator, Ill try that and see how that works, but could this be a cause of my water temp being so high? The Radiator was replaced and when the outside temp is hot, the needle varies from 200f to 230f. It rises to 220-230f when I am at high RPMs, then comes back down when low RPMs.
 
#6 ·
Overheating issues: start with air in your system which includes checking for leaks. Make sure you have some coolant in your overflow. You can try thermostat, and even go with 180 degree thermostat, this may be a band-aid fix. If that don't work you can try and replace the water pump, and while you are doing that get the timing belt kit from Modern. That may or may not fix the issue and if it doesn't you may have a slightly leaking head gasket. I had this issue and did all the above before realizing it was a head gasket issue.. one way to tell was that I had an AGP overflow bottle which had coolant stains on it. What I mean by that is coolant must have shot out of the overflow and dried, leaving a very tell-tale sign that it was inducing air into the system. Another thing to check is your oil level: if your level is too low you will slightly overheat your system due to friction
 
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