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Old 06-22-2005, 04:40 AM   #16 (permalink)
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lunati does custom cams.

I had to use them when I had the cams reground on the volvo b234f head I swapped onto the ford 2.3 block in one of my mustangs
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Old 07-02-2005, 07:21 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Information Updated. If you guys have anymore good information that you would like me to provide in the sticky just let me know. Tex, I am still researching more information.
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Old 07-02-2005, 03:06 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I just noticed that you don't talk about valve overlap which is what we're trying to get away from with our cars.
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Old 07-06-2005, 02:09 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by Overcome
I just noticed that you don't talk about valve overlap which is what we're trying to get away from with our cars.

thanks. I am getting more information up.
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Old 07-14-2005, 04:53 PM   #20 (permalink)
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you said that w/ the crane 193-0012 you can use the valve train. how much would it help with titanium upgrade, or would it even make a difference?
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Old 07-14-2005, 08:18 PM   #21 (permalink)
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for long term use, or to see higher rpm's it is sugested to run the valve springs. but for what my car is going to see, the factory pieces are just fine! if you can swing the pricing, it never hurts to have better parts in the motor. im waiting to go through my head before replacing the valve springs, but they will come in time
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Old 09-05-2005, 08:29 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Thanks for the info and the effort. I have put about 1k miles on my s3 w/ top end performance port and valve, modern honed intake and crane 16s. I have gotten a few comments about the loping. It seems really cool, and now I know it is going to happen with this set-up. It is a daily driver and is not hard to drive. With the engine mounts and the ac on, it will shake loose change in the change holder. I could not tell you the hp and torque numbers, and it has not been on any track yet. But now that I know the loping is normal, I am a step closer to getting it on the track, and maybe even the dyno just for fun. Thanks again!
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Old 09-05-2005, 08:38 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by Tex
for long term use, or to see higher rpm's it is sugested to run the valve springs. but for what my car is going to see, the factory pieces are just fine! if you can swing the pricing, it never hurts to have better parts in the motor. im waiting to go through my head before replacing the valve springs, but they will come in time



Hey Tex, Did you get more snap crackle and pops after you installed the cams? or was It minamized.
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Old 09-23-2005, 11:35 PM   #24 (permalink)
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ive herd the stock cams work just fine and there was no need to change them just the gears mabey thats why there is no market ?
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Old 01-31-2006, 12:49 PM   #25 (permalink)
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wow!!! very good information , thanks!!
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Old 03-11-2006, 06:10 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Do you NEED to replace the valve springs. I am lookin at buying the 0014s and the fidanza gears this week.
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Old 05-31-2006, 09:13 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by acrsrtguy
ive herd the stock cams work just fine and there was no need to change them just the gears mabey thats why there is no market ?

I will be using stock cams with cam gears will see!
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Old 09-13-2006, 11:22 PM   #28 (permalink)
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tex my friend,

which cams should i get? i'm thinking of some for the mid range, would 14's be the best route for my 3147 and 8.8.1 pistons? i want a little more low end. whats a good time to call you at the shop to discuss this?
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Old 09-13-2006, 11:39 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by reed32
tex my friend,

which cams should i get? i'm thinking of some for the mid range, would 14's be the best route for my 3147 and 8.8.1 pistons? i want a little more low end. whats a good time to call you at the shop to discuss this?

why do u want more loww end just curious? some of these cams will help you get more power up top or help let you get power with a higher redline.. i know more about NA cams tho for hondas since i did regrinds on my old b20vtec but the cams if set to the right advance/retard settings help alot.. read all the info bro theres all the answers right there.. u take ur car to the track yet?

OH AND HERES THE SECTION WHICH APPLIES TO YOUR QUESTION

A stage III/50 trim isn’t enough power for you. You want HUGE power, so you’re running a monster snail. Because of this big turbo, the lag is unbearable, not spooling till 3500rpm or even higher. You need something that is going to spool that big turbo, or your going to go grey before you make boost. You are going to need the crane 193-0014 split pattern cams. The design on these cams allows for a rapid spool on big turbo's. By designing the exhaust smaller than the intake, you increase the velocity of the exhaust gasses leaving the motor. This accelerated exhaust flow helps spool quickly. The down side to this setup is that its not designed for high rpm power. As many people have realized, this cam will give a lot of torque down low, but tends to die off as the rpm’s climb. This is due to the exhaust cam becoming inefficient. Other modifications aren’t going to make that huge of a difference with this cam, because it’s designed to spool a big turbo, not really to make power on its own. The only time I recommend these cams is when you really need to spool faster. These camshafts will make a bit of noise, if you don’t clock it with cam gears, the idle will be quite rough, once clocked for maximum power, it will be noticeable but not erratic. You don’t need to worry about valve springs with this camshaft.
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Old 09-14-2006, 03:09 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by Seansurfn2
Quote: Originally Posted by reed32
tex my friend,

which cams should i get? i'm thinking of some for the mid range, would 14's be the best route for my 3147 and 8.8.1 pistons? i want a little more low end. whats a good time to call you at the shop to discuss this?

why do u want more loww end just curious? some of these cams will help you get more power up top or help let you get power with a higher redline.. i know more about NA cams tho for hondas since i did regrinds on my old b20vtec but the cams if set to the right advance/retard settings help alot.. read all the info bro theres all the answers right there.. u take ur car to the track yet?

OH AND HERES THE SECTION WHICH APPLIES TO YOUR QUESTION

A stage III/50 trim isn’t enough power for you. You want HUGE power, so you’re running a monster snail. Because of this big turbo, the lag is unbearable, not spooling till 3500rpm or even higher. You need something that is going to spool that big turbo, or your going to go grey before you make boost. You are going to need the crane 193-0014 split pattern cams. The design on these cams allows for a rapid spool on big turbo's. By designing the exhaust smaller than the intake, you increase the velocity of the exhaust gasses leaving the motor. This accelerated exhaust flow helps spool quickly. The down side to this setup is that its not designed for high rpm power. As many people have realized, this cam will give a lot of torque down low, but tends to die off as the rpm’s climb. This is due to the exhaust cam becoming inefficient. Other modifications aren’t going to make that huge of a difference with this cam, because it’s designed to spool a big turbo, not really to make power on its own. The only time I recommend these cams is when you really need to spool faster. These camshafts will make a bit of noise, if you don’t clock it with cam gears, the idle will be quite rough, once clocked for maximum power, it will be noticeable but not erratic. You don’t need to worry about valve springs with this camshaft.

yeah i already read that, i just heard 14's were not great for our car. this car won't be going to the track to the end of the semester.
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