As I have pretty much all the major mods (other than exhaust and suspension) that are out for our cars, I was looking for little things I could do to enhance the ones I have or just improve performance in general. I was looking to doing the gearing change next, but that looks like it fell thru for now. I'm also really looking for ways to cool underhood temps as this is our cars cryptonite. My currrent mods
Needswings Intake
LET pulley kit
LET HE & Johnson pump
LET tune
LET thermostat (finally arrived!)
LET phenolic spacers
NGK +1 colder plugs
Magnecor wires
Sprint booster A2
Thanks in advance.
Last edited by bluemdsrt6 : 06-15-2008 at 01:13 PM.
I think exhaust should be next, suspension is allready really good on these cars. Your probably at 400+hp at the crank now. The next big step is meth or N2O. Unless you want to get into engine work?
mods-ported and polished supercharger.intake.heads- cai, 181mm pulley kit,3"stainless exhaust w/cat and resonator delete,hoosier drags,nx pro fogger system with all options,intercooler upgrades,datalogger,widebands,johnson cm30,ignition work,custom tune,piggyback,touchscreen mgmt system.
Your definitely right, for my next major mod I need to do something with the exhaust. My purpose for this thread is to pick peoples brains for small DIY type mods and enhancements. For example heat wrapping a certain line or hose. Little tricks that work on any car.
I was thinking of adding fans to my HE (heat exchanger) before I got the larger HE, but now that I have the larger HE I can't install fans behind it because of clearance issues. Would putting push fans in the front of the HE work well instead of using pull fans that would fit behind it? I know they would be blocking some air if not turned on, but would it be a significant blockage or would the benefit of them being on make up for it?
These are the fans (two side by side) I was thinking of going with:
I was thinking of adding fans to my HE (heat exchanger) before I got the larger HE, but now that I have the larger HE I can't install fans behind it because of clearance issues. Would putting push fans in the front of the HE work well instead of using pull fans that would fit behind it? I know they would be blocking some air if not turned on, but would it be a significant blockage or would the benefit of them being on make up for it?
These are the fans (two side by side) I was thinking of going with:
I wouldn't worry about air blockage at 55mph it will get through and when parked waiting on a run or just cooling down you can pop the hood, this would work. If just chilling at idle or waiting inline for a run/stuck in traffic, moving that hot air around would be good to reduce heat soak,I say go for it,
Which way do you think would be better, attaching the fans straight onto the face of the HE (therefore pushing all the air thru the cooling fins, but covering some of the surface space for natural dissipation), or attaching the fans so they have a few inches between the fan and the HE (this way it wouldn't impede some of the HE's natural dissipation, but still blow air onto the face of the HE and thru the fins) ? I was also going to wire the HE pump to run with the key in the on position. This should have a great cooling effect with the larger HE.
Here's the setup I am currently putting together. 20x10 tranmission cooler in series with the factory heat exchanger, 2 7.5" SPAL 450CFM fans, CM30, RCI 1 gallon fuel cell and DEKA 11lb battery(stock is aprox 45lbs). I should have it finished this weekend, if I can get my brackets made.
SRTpowa whats up man?! I like the setup with the double h/e's. Good idea to loop them in series,I think thats better than one new chiller tank with ice that does not give you the extra volume- imo, This is probably the best answer yet to our heat soaking situation, the more coolant the more heat it can dissipate. good job! Make me a kit too. + you dropped some weight/or atleast didn't add any.
Here's your exhaust mod. Still the dyno results are a little confusing because no baseline, but someone else will have some on soon. They are in production according to the thread.
They are 3/8", but the tubing is at least a 1/2" and the 3/8" ends could be chopped off and replaced with 1/2" barbs with some welding skill. I don't think it will really restric flow that much. I say this because on my first prototype intercooler system I had over 30 feet of 1/2" aluminum line running to the trunk where my Johnson pump was located, and it could pump a gallon of water through the entire system in a matter of seconds. Here is video of my original design. YouTube - SRT-6 Remote intercooler setup
It was ghetto but it was cheap and allowed me to experiment. It worked but it looked like ass and people kept thinking they were nitrous lines. The new setup looks better and the fans should help keep the air moving across the fins. I really don't know how it's going to turn out, afterall I'm just an electrician and by no means an auto engineer/mechanic.
If this doesn't keep the IAT's down Ive got a little something else tucked away in the trunk that will.
SRTpowa whats up man?! I like the setup with the double h/e's. Good idea to loop them in series,I think thats better than one new chiller tank with ice that does not give you the extra volume- imo, This is probably the best answer yet to our heat soaking situation, the more coolant the more heat it can dissipate. good job! Make me a kit too. + you dropped some weight/or atleast didn't add any.
Thanks man! You are an inspiration for all SRT-6 owners. I just don't have the balls or the money to push the car where you are and where we all would like to be. You are paving the way. Keep up the great work! BTW I estimate about 30lbs weight saved from this modc compared to my old setup. I also found out the passenger seat weighs 50lbsThere is a lot of heavy replaceable/removeable stuff on these cars, IE., doors, trunk, hood. If someone wanted to make an all out race car, some carbon fiber replacements would help drop quite a bit of weight. Tires and wheels are another area. I just got the new Hoosier Drag radials, they are 20lbs each, compared to my 26lbs 19's and the 17x9Voxx wheels are about 5lbs lighter a piece.
White letters look gangster!
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Little mods and tweaks that make a difference
There is a lot of heavy replaceable/removeable stuff on these cars, IE., doors, trunk, hood. If someone wanted to make an all out race car, some carbon fiber replacements would help drop quite a bit of weight. Tires and wheels are another area. I just got the new Hoosier Drag radials, they are 20lbs each, compared to my 26lbs 19's and the 17x9Voxx wheels are about 5lbs lighter a piece.
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