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Old 12-22-2008, 03:46 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default SOME QUESTIONS ABOUT No2

I have had nitrous now for almost a year and love it. Well i wanna go to a 100 shot. I know i need a fuel pump which is no problem. Is there anything else that i need and if not what size are the pills for a 100 shot. Im running a wet kit. Also when i hit the nitrous in 3rd it bogs down real bad and then all of a sudden kicks in. What is that caused from. If anyone can help that would be great. Thanks!!
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Old 12-25-2008, 09:54 AM   #2 (permalink)
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When you do the pump do a fuel pump rewire and if you have the money do a bottle neck mod as well. Use race gas with the 100 shot.

Have no idea or input for the bog issue in third, but I would get this figured out before upping the shot. I would also insure the tune is safe and all the basics such as good oil and filter, plugs, filter etc.. are covered.

With a 100 shot you may want to start looking into a progressive controller to manage the hit. Some of the electronics out there such as the FJO have most everything in one box. Nitrous Outlet Product Details - Electronics & Ignition - Progressive Controllers
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Old 12-25-2008, 10:09 AM   #3 (permalink)
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lol i ran a 100 shot on my car with stock turbo with zero fuel mods and no piggyback.the car was tuned purely of the fuel jet
50 shot N33 F19
75 shot N41 F24
100 shot N47 F27
125 shot N53 F31
150 shot N58 F34
175 shot or more...make your life easier and go direct port
this is based off 43.5 fuel pressure and nitrous bottle pressure of 1100 psi

results will vary with changes in the fuel jet size. those fuel jet sizes are the suggested sizes for the corresponding nitrous jet, you can go up or down on the fuel jet to fine tune the air fuel
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Old 12-25-2008, 10:24 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Jay is much (heavy emphasis on this) more experienced at this then I am so his advice should be used.

Only thing is that I would still do the fuel pump rewire because of the cause and effect for the money and effort spent. With the bottle neck mod you would be eliminating the factory FP/filter.......so if the bottle neck mod was not done and the FP was done, I would also think about replacing the FP/Filter with new just to insure that you are not short changing things because the filter part of this is not flowing 100%.............I guess the decision to replace would be based on miles that the existing one has on it, that and the fact that you are changing the pump.

Checking the fuel pressure at WOT prior to doing anything might make the pump replacement and the other stuff dealing with fuel delivery moot.
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Old 12-25-2008, 10:46 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by never2muchboost View Post
lol i ran a 100 shot on my car with stock turbo with zero fuel mods and no piggyback.the car was tuned purely of the fuel jet
50 shot N33 F19
75 shot N41 F24
100 shot N47 F27
125 shot N53 F31
150 shot N58 F34
175 shot or more...make your life easier and go direct port
this is based off 43.5 fuel pressure and nitrous bottle pressure of 1100 psi

results will vary with changes in the fuel jet size. those fuel jet sizes are the suggested sizes for the corresponding nitrous jet, you can go up or down on the fuel jet to fine tune the air fuel


Im guessing you were running in the UICP Jay and not DP?

what kinda times you put down with it on the 100
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Old 12-25-2008, 10:52 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by NJ DSM View Post
Im guessing you were running in the UICP Jay and not DP?

what kinda times you put down with it on the 100

yep single stage efi kit with the shark nozzle. made 414whp 464wtq. best was 11.7@124 on stock turbo.i never ran a window switch or wot shifted.i had an "on" button i held in my hand while driving lmao

if i had been motivated enough to really spend time working on my own car im certain i could have went a lot faster..im just always under someone elses hood when im at the track
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Old 12-25-2008, 12:18 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by never2muchboost View Post
yep single stage efi kit with the shark nozzle. made 414whp 464wtq. best was 11.7@124 on stock turbo.i never ran a window switch or wot shifted.i had an "on" button i held in my hand while driving lmao

if i had been motivated enough to really spend time working on my own car im certain i could have went a lot faster..im just always under someone elses hood when im at the track

bad ass
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Old 12-25-2008, 07:57 PM   #8 (permalink)
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thanks guys for all the help. Just got into No2 and still learing much. That why i ask before i do. Thanks for all the input!
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Old 12-25-2008, 08:00 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by never2muchboost View Post
yep single stage efi kit with the shark nozzle. made 414whp 464wtq. best was 11.7@124 on stock turbo.i never ran a window switch or wot shifted.i had an "on" button i held in my hand while driving lmao

if i had been motivated enough to really spend time working on my own car im certain i could have went a lot faster..im just always under someone elses hood when im at the track

now that would be fun..... 11.7@124 lawlz
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Old 12-26-2008, 08:28 AM   #10 (permalink)
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What I suggest you do:

Instahl a large digital EGT gauge and with a good non-nos tune see what your EGTS are at the end of a 1/4 mile

When you instahl your nos, keep an eye on your EGTS and mke sure they don't go over the readings from earlier..or safer yet..a bit lower than those #'s.

The EGT gauge is a great tunning tool to let you know if you are going too fat...stumbling...r too lean...damage!

I have had nos on my cars since the late 80s and here are some examples of what my dailey street driven cars would do:

99 Miata MX5 / high 15s with only exhaust and CAI / 12.65 at 109 with 100 hp shot
98 SOHC Neon / 14.9s with lots of mods (no turbo) / 12.11 at 117 with 125 hp shot
85 Omni GLH / 14.0 with a few mods, stock turbo 14 psi / 11.89 at 118 with 150 hp shot

The Omni was the first one I put the juice to and it was the ONLY one to get melted parts from UNTIL I found the EGT gauge! Big and digital, not the little needle type.

On my cars a EGT that is 25 degrees hotter (leaner) than my normal numbers make the car a bit slower in the 1/4 and still safe overall....25 cooler and the car also slows from being too rich. Neither one of these conditions can be felt by the seat of the pants.
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Old 12-26-2008, 08:36 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by MoparNeonSRT4 View Post
......Also when i hit the nitrous in 3rd it bogs down real bad and then all of a sudden kicks in. What is that caused from. If anyone can help that would be great. Thanks!!

Without a EGT gauge to tel you what the temps are I would ask the following:

Are you purging your system before you use it so that the mix is ready to go?
Are you hitting it at to low an rpm....which can actually stretch head bolts and lift the head off the motor or blow out stuff from a nitrous sneeze....I had both happen on seperate times....blew the entire side of an intercooler clean apart!

With the gauge you could see if the mix was too lean or rich when it happens.

I use a single probe one from Motorsports Innovations that cost $169 and uses its own 9v batttery.

I have bracket raced fwd Mopars since 83 and have 34 NHRA/IHRA Championships to back up my words....and I ONLY drive my cars to events.
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Old 12-26-2008, 06:27 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by ATaylorRacing View Post
Without a EGT gauge to tel you what the temps are I would ask the following:

Are you purging your system before you use it so that the mix is ready to go?
Are you hitting it at to low an rpm....which can actually stretch head bolts and lift the head off the motor or blow out stuff from a nitrous sneeze....I had both happen on seperate times....blew the entire side of an intercooler clean apart!

With the gauge you could see if the mix was too lean or rich when it happens.

I use a single probe one from Motorsports Innovations that cost $169 and uses its own 9v batttery.

I have bracket raced fwd Mopars since 83 and have 34 NHRA/IHRA Championships to back up my words....and I ONLY drive my cars to events.


that my friend just convinced me to order one.

I like the idea of knowing my EGT's when I'm spraying more and more i read about it...i mean you really have an idea where to go pill wise when you see it at the end of the 1320. I dont have any tune, just DP/wga and meth basically, but the nitrous wakes everything up..and i like the idea of knowing how big a shot i can jump to by knowing my egt's. Im trapping 115 on a 35 shot, and know with the 75/100 i can get way more out of it.
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Old 12-27-2008, 04:02 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Joe, you should have bought the Zeitronix I had. You would have gotten the A/F and the EGT as well as boost TPS and another 0-5v circuit of your choice to monitor. With the warning trigger you could have had it kill boost and nitrous if any of the monitored items (EGT for example) was not within parameters you specified.

Keep an eye out for a Zeitronix set up in the F/S, you will not be disappointed.
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Old 12-28-2008, 07:41 AM   #14 (permalink)
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[quote=ATaylorRacing;6857006]What I suggest you do:

Instahl a large digital EGT gauge and with a good non-nos tune see what your EGTS are at the end of a 1/4 mile

When you instahl your nos, keep an eye on your EGTS and mke sure they don't go over the readings from earlier..or safer yet..a bit lower than those #'s.

The only problem i have is this part of your post.First off have you ever logged the egt's of a stock srt-4 or one with a "good tune" but running higher boost levels. I know if you are running much over the stock boost levels your egt's are high its the nature of the beast...the beast being the small exhaust scroll and the small manifold the turbine dumps into,you add nitrous to the mix and the egt's are going to go up i don't care how good the nitrous tune is.If you were running a turbo with a little more turbine ar or a good ported manifold and clipped turbine i would say the egt's would be good to tune off of...the situation being what it is... i say get the afr's in the mid 11's and watch for knock with a scan guage or data log with the diablosport pedator(my personal choice)but make sure the boost only tune is good and if you don't know that don't spray.
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Old 12-28-2008, 10:40 AM   #15 (permalink)
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[quote=93stang434;6862059]
Quote: Originally Posted by ATaylorRacing View Post
What I suggest you do:

Instahl a large digital EGT gauge and with a good non-nos tune see what your EGTS are at the end of a 1/4 mile

When you instahl your nos, keep an eye on your EGTS and mke sure they don't go over the readings from earlier..or safer yet..a bit lower than those #'s.

The only problem i have is this part of your post.First off have you ever logged the egt's of a stock srt-4 or one with a "good tune" but running higher boost levels. I know if you are running much over the stock boost levels your egt's are high its the nature of the beast...the beast being the small exhaust scroll and the small manifold the turbine dumps into,you add nitrous to the mix and the egt's are going to go up i don't care how good the nitrous tune is.If you were running a turbo with a little more turbine ar or a good ported manifold and clipped turbine i would say the egt's would be good to tune off of...the situation being what it is... i say get the afr's in the mid 11's and watch for knock with a scan guage or data log with the diablosport pedator(my personal choice)but make sure the boost only tune is good and if you don't know that don't spray.

hmmm. Good post I've been comtemplating a ported exhaust mani to account for the added amount of exhaust gases from spraying. This has probably made up my mind.
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