Quote: Originally Posted by redsled
Yeah, purge is not a necessary item to remove nitrous from the lines. You can do that by shutting the bottle off and hitting the nitrous until it fades out under wot. A window switch is just a plus to guarantee nitrous isn't coming on before 3000 RPM, but it isn't a "must have" item either.
To remove nitrous from the lines no, you dont have to have a purge valve to remove nitrous from your system when you shut it off provided you unplug your coil or remove the ignition wire to your coil if you have a distributor and crank the car for a few seconds to vent any gasses out of the motor before starting it again. Anyone who has started a motor with nitrous purged into it knows you get a nice rev when it finally fires up. There is a chance you might get a pressure build up and shoot your intake manifold or if you have them, pushrods through the hood of your car. I only know of this happening once and I've seen the aftermath. As for using a purge valve to remove any air from the system before you make a run on spray, hell yes you should have a purge solinoid. On a purpose built race car thats built for spray eh ok you can get away with purging it into the motor, but 98.9% of us here on the forums drive our srt-4's on the street daily and dont have motors specifically built to spray nitrous so to have a purge solinoid is highly reccomended to avoid any unnecessary strain on the motor that its not designed to handle. Having air in your lines and going from that transition from nitrous - air - nitrous can be violent and break shit.
As for the torch, its simply science. You heat a metal and it becomes soft and plyable. A pressurized system distributes its pressure equally through out its container. Any one point that becomes weak, whether its the size of a silver dollar or the size of a pin hole will be vulnerable to a blow out. Does it happen often no, actually it is a rare occurance, but its murphy's law.
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