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Old 12-31-2004, 07:46 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Nitrous FAQ

Here's a nice little article taken off of http://members.aol.com/agspeed/nos.htm Saved myself some writing, but I will however, make my own additions to this and mark them in italics. ENJOY.

How Does Nitrous Oxide Work?

There are three points. First, nitrous oxide is comprised of 2 parts nitrogen and one part oxygen (36% oxygen by weight). *This is why you will commonly see it referred to as N2O when typed out on message boards and the like* When the nitrous oxide is heated to approximately 572oF (on compression stroke), it breaks down and release extra oxygen, However, it is not this oxygen alone which creates additional power, but the ability of this oxygen to burn more fuel. By burning more fuel, higher cylinder pressures are created and this is where most of the additional power is realized. Secondly, as pressurized nitrous oxide is injected into the intake manifold, it changes from a liquid to a gas (boils). This boiling affect reduces the temperature of the nitrous to a minus .127 Degrees F. This "cooling affect" in turn significantly reduces intake charge temperatures by approximately 60-75 Degrees F. This also helps create additional power. A general rule of thumb: For every 10 Degrees F. reduction in intake charge temperature, a 1% increase in power will be realized. Example: A 350 HP engine with an intake temperature drop of 70 Degrees F, would gain approximately 25 HP on the cooling affect alone. The third point, the nitrogen that was also released during the compression stroke performs an important role. Nitrogen acts to "buff or dampen" the increased cylinder pressures leading to a controlled combustion process. *This is not to be mistaken with bottle pressure (measured in PSi) Which I will further explain later if it is not covered here*


Why Nitrous?

Nitrous oxide injection has become a very popular option for today's performance enthusiast for several reasons:

Nitrous offers you more performance per dollar spent, than any other performance modification.
Nitrous installations are relatively easy to accomplish.
Since Nitrous is used only when needed, it offers you the advantages of complete driveability and normal gas mileage while not "on the button."
Systems available for virtually any power need from 25 HP to over 500 extra HP.
One of the few performance options available for today's computer controlled, fuel injected engines.
Systems can easily be removed or transferred to another vehicle.
*Nitrous is also considered "instant torque" so to speak. When you're "on the button" the throttle response will be immediate as opposed to the lag one might encounter in turbo-charged setups*



Q: Will Nitrous affect engine reliability?

A: The key is choosing the correct H.P. for a given application. *Note that jet sizes (fuel and n2o) will vary depending on your application / car. Although some applications tend to be capable of holding a larger shot, some are not and you should always do your research prior to selecting this. See the following question for more info.* A kit that uses the correct factory calibration does not usually cause increased wear. As the energy released in the cylinder increases so do the loads on the variuos components that must handle them. If the load increases exceed the ability of the component to handle them, added wear takes place. NOS kits are designed for use on demand and only at wide open throttle. Nitrous can be extremeny advantageous i that it is only used when you want it, not all the time. All NOS kits are designed for maximum power with reliability for a given application.


Q: Can I simply bolt a nitrous kit onto my stock engine?

A: Yes, NOS/NX/ZEX/Venom manufacture systems for virtually any stock engine application. The key is to choose the correct kit for a given application; i.e., 4 cyl. engines normally allow an extra 40-60 HP*(and sometimes upto 75-100)*, 6 cyl. engines usually work great between 75-100 extra HP, small block V8's (302/350/400cid) can typically accept up to 140 extra HP, and big block V8's (427/454) might accept from 125-200 extra HP. These suggested ranges provide maximum reliability from most stock engines using cast pistons and cast crank with few or no engine modifications. *Note that when we refer to a 50 shot, or 60 shot, this is a general measurement for the amount of Wheel Horsepower (WHP) the shot will yield. In most cases, it is safe to assume that a 50 shot will yield 50WHP, a 60 shot will yield 60WHP and so on and so forth. However, in some applications (for example turbo charged applications that are ALSO running n2o) these figures may vary with the shot generally yielding more WHP than noted*


Q: What are some of the general rules for even higher H.P. gains?

A: Generally, forged aluminum pistons are one of the best modifications you can make. Retard ignition timing by 4-8 degrees (1 to 1½ degrees timing retard per 50 H.P. gain). In many cases a higher flowing fuel pump may be necessary. Higher octane (100+) racing type fuel may be required as well as spark plugs 1 to 2 heat ranges colder than normal with gaps closed to .025"-.030". *It is important to note that the best plugs said to be used for n2o applications are copper plugs. Iridium and others tend not to mix well with nitrous*For gains over 250 H.P., other important modifications could be necessary in addition to those mentioned above. These special modifications may include a forged crankshaft, a high quality race type connecting rod, a high output fuel pump dedicated to feeding the additional fuel demands of the nitrous system, and a racing fuel with high specific gravity and an octane rating of 110 or more. *Please don't ever underestimate the importance of fuel when it relates to any forced induction application. A GOOD investment would also be to attain an air fuel gauge (widebands being the absolute best) so that you may monitor whether or not your car is leaning out. Some more advanced nitrous systems (like the VENOM kit) will automatically shut off the n2o when it reads you are running lean. (This is because this system usually taps into your O2 sensor).*


Q: How much performance improvement can I expect with a nitrous system?

A: For many applications an improvement from 1 to 3 full seconds and 10 to 15 MPH in the quarter mile can be expected. Factors such as engine size, tires, jetting, gearing, etc. will effect the final results. *It is a general rule of thumb, as aforementioned, that the WHP gained will be equivalent to that of the size of "shot" of nitrous that you are using. Please refer to my other comments above*


Q: How long will the bottle last?

A: This largely depends on the type of nitrous kit and jetting used. For example, a 125 HP Power Shot kit with a standard 10 lb. capacity bottle will usually offer up to 7 to 10 full quarter-mile passes. For power levels of 250 HP, 3 to 5 full quarter-mile passes may be expected. If nitrous is only used in 2nd and 3rd gears, the number of runs will be more. *Also note that if you are running a purge kit, and using it, then you will also lose n2o this way*


Q: How long can I hold the nitrous button down?

A: It is possible to hold the button down until the bottle is empty. However 15 continuous seconds at a time, or less, is recommend. *In otherwords, no longer than 15 seconds at a time. This is particularly important, but usually never occurs since most races do not last this long. In addition to this, it must be noted that spraying in 5th Gear is also very much discouraged. 5th gear is not made to handle such large amounts of load on the motor and spraying in 5th has been known to cause many setups to "blow up". Also....try your best not to hit fuel cut (aka the rev limiter) while you are spraying. Rev limiter / Fuel cut will cut fuel to your motor and WILL make you detonate. Don't miss gears either especially if ur a power shifter.*


Q: When is the best time to use nitrous?

A: At wide open throttle only (unless a progressive controller is used). Due to the tremendous amount of increased torque, you will generally find best results, traction permitting, at early activation. Nitrous can be safely applied above 2,500 RPM under full throttle conditions. *You can, technically launch with your nitrous activated. Just be careful not to hit WOT during this time, until you have gained traction, otherwise you will not leave the "hole" and are most likely to bog out.There are products than u can get to help "idiot" proof ur n2o kit like a Window switch. MSD sells one that allows u to literally choose between how many RPM's the n2o will spray and stop spraying (for example between 3k and 6k.)*


Q: Will I have to rejet my carburetor on my car when adding nitrous?

A: No! The NOS system is independent of your carburetor and injects its own mixture of fuel and nitrous.


Q: Is nitrous oxide flammable?

A: No. Nitrous oxide by itself is non-flammable. However, the oxygen present in nitrous oxide causes combustion of fuel to take place more rapidly.


Q: Will nitrous oxide cause detonation?

A: Not directly. Detonation is the result of too little fuel present during combustion (lean) or too low of an octane of fuel. Too much ignition advance also causes detonation. In general, most kits engineered for stock type engines will work well with premium type fuels and minimal decreases of ignition timing. In racing applications where higher compression ratios are used, resulting in higher cylinder pressures, a higher fuel octane must be used as well as more ignition retard.


Q: Where can I get my bottle refilled?

A: There are many performance shops that can refill your nitrous bottle generally for around $20-$25.


Q: Is there any performance increase in using medical grade nitrous oxide?

A: None! NOS recommends and sells only the automotive grade, called Ny-trous Plus. Ny-trous Plus contains a minimal amount of sulfur dioxide (100 ppm) as a deterrent to substance abuse. The additive does not affect performance.


Q: Is it a good idea to use an aftermarket computer chip in conjunction with an NOS System?

A: Only if the chip had been designed specifically for use with nitrous oxide. Most aftermarket chips use more aggressive timing advance curves to create more power. This can lead to potential detonation. You may wish to check with the manufacturer of the chip before using it. The top manufacturers, such as Hypertech do make special chips for use with nitrous.


Q: How long does it generally take to install an NOS kit?

A: The majority of kits can be installed using common hand tools in approximately 3 to 5 hours. Instruction manuals are by far the best in the industry; and include specific installation drawings, wiring diagrams, and bottle mounting procedures as well as performance tips and a thorough trouble shooting guide. *Note that some kits (like the VENOM kit) will require much more wiring during installation. Electronic kits will more than often wire up to your injectors, and o2 sensor, thereby prolonging the process*


Q: Which type of manifold is better suited for a plate injector type of nitrous system, single or dual plane manifold?

A: As long as he manifold doesn't interfere with the spray pattern of the bars, either will work fine in most cases. The distribution is better with a single plane at high RPM. If your goal is to increase power by more than 200 HP, the single plane manifold is better.


Q: Does nitrous oxide raise cylinder pressures and temperatures?

A: Yes. Due to the ability to burn more fuel, this is exactly why nitrous makes so much power.


Q: Are there any benefits to chilling the nitrous bottle?

A: No. Chilling the bottle lowers the pressure dramatically and will also lower the flow rate of the nitrous causing a fuel rich condition and reducing power. On cold evenings you might run on the rich side. For optimal running conditions, keep bottle pressure at approximately 800-900 psi. *This is where a bottle warmer comes in handy. Note that most N2O refill stations will chill the bottle prior to filling it. Warming it up will increase the pressure. I believe the highest psi that should be used is 10000psi. You can always opt for a bottle warmer for this purpose.*NOS has a nitrous pressure gauge that allows you to monitor this. If you live or operate a nitrous system in colder climates, it may also be a good idea to purchase a bottle heater kit, part #14161. Generally, ambient temperatures of 70-90 degrees F. will allow for best power potential of NOS kits.


Q: Are there benefits to using nitrous with turbo or supercharger applications?

A: Absolutely! In turbo applications, turbo lag is completely eliminated with the addition of a nitrous system. In addition, both turbo and superchargers compress the incoming air, thus heating it. With the injection of nitrous, a tremendous intercooling effect reduces intake charge temperatures by 75 degrees or more. Boost is usually increased as well; adding to even more power.*see...told ya *


Q: What effect does nitrous have on an engine with considerable miles on it?

A: This depends largely on the actual condition of the engine components. Any performance modification to an engine that is worn out or poorly tuned will have detrimental effects. However, an engine in good condition, with good ring and head gasket sealing, should be able to use nitrous without any abnormal wear.


Q: Will the use of nitrous oxide affect the catalytic converter?

A: No. The increase in oxygen present in the exhaust may actually increase the efficiency of the converter. Since the use of nitrous is normally limited to 10-20 seconds of continuous use, there usually are no appreciable effects. Temperatures are typically well within acceptable standards.


Q: Will the percentage of performance increase be the same in a highly modified engine compared to a stock engine when using the same NOS kit and jetting?

A: Not really. In most cases the percentage of increase is greater from a stock engine because it is not as efficient as the modified engine in a normal non-nitrous mode. However, since the effects of nitrous oxide magnify the output of any engine, the total power output will be much higher in the modified engine.


Q: Can high compression engines utilize nitrous oxide?

A: Absolutely. High or low compression ratios can work quite suitably with nitrous oxide provided the proper balance of nitrous and fuel enrichment is maintained. NOS kits are used in applications from relatively low compression stock type motors to Pro-Modifieds, which often exceed 15 to 1. Generally, the higher the compression ratio, the more ignition retard, as well as higher octane fuel, is required. For more specific information talk to one of our technicians.


Q: Can service station fuel be used for street/strip nitrous oxide applications?

A: Yes. Use of a premium type leaded or unleaded fuel of 92, or greater, octance is recommended for most applications. Many NOS systems are designed for use with service station pump gas. However, when higher compression or higher horsepower levels are used, a racing fuel of 100 octane, or more, must be used.


Q: What type of cam is best suited for use with nitrous oxide?

A: Generally, cams that have more exhaust overlap and duration. However, it is best to choose a cam tailored to normal use (when nitrous is not activated) since 99% of most vehicle operation is not at full throttle. There are special cam grinds available for nitrous competition which have more aggressive exhaust profiles etc. Since cam selection depends largely on vehicle weight, gearing, etc., it is best to stick to cam manufacturer's recommendations for your particular goal.


Q: What type of nitrous system is better; a plate injection system or a direct port injection system?

A: The advantages of a plate system are ease of installation and removal, ability to transfer easily to another vehicle, ability to change jetting combinations quickly, and, in most cases, provide you with all the extra HP you will ever need (75 to 350 more HP). In some cases, such as in-line type engines with long runners, a direct port type system is advisable for maximizing distribution. *better more even fuel across the board*Also, where more than 350 HP is needed, our direct port Fogger systems will provide the ultimate in distribution and power (up to 500+ HP). Direct port injection is also desirable when the system is hidden under the manifold.


Q: Should I modify my fuel system to use nitrous oxide?

A: Most stock fuel pumps will work adequately for smaller nitrous applications. It is important to check to see if your pump can flow enough fuel to your existing fuel system (whether carburetor or fuel injected), as well as being able to supply the additional fuel required by the nitrous kit under full throttle conditions. It may be a good idea to dedicate a separate fuel pump to the nitrous kit.


Q: Which is the best position to mount a nitrous bottle?

A: N2Obottles come with siphon tubes and, in order to maintain proper nitrous pickup, it is important to mount the bottle correctly. It is recommend mounting the bottle at a 15 degree angle with the valve end higher than the bottom of the bottle. The valve end of the bottle should point to the front of the vehicle and the valve knob and label should face straight up.


Q: How important is it to use nitrous and fuel filters in a kit?

A: Some of the most important components of any nitrous system are nitrous and fuel filters that keep contaminants from attacking the solenoid or plugging up a jet. A stuck solenoid means trouble!


Q: What are the advantages of using nitrous compared to other performance options?

A: The cost of many other performance options can put you in the poorhouse. Dollar for dollar, you can't buy more performance with less money than nitrous. With a nitrous system, performance and reliability can be had for a much more reasonable price while retaining the advantages of a stock engine during normal driving. And, nitrous offers tremendous gains in torque without having to rev the engine to excessive rpm's. These factors help your engine last longer than many other methods of boosting horsepower.


Q: How do I know how much nitrous is left in the bottle?

A: The most reliable way is to weigh the bottle to determine how many pounds remain. When a bottle is near empty (about 20% or less nitrous remaining) a surging effect is normally felt.


Q: What is the function of the blow-off safety valve on the bottle?

A: It is very importent not to overfill a bottle; i.e., a 10 lb. capacity bottle should not be filled with more than 10 lb. of nitrous oxide by weight. Over-filling and/or too much heat can cause excessive bottle pressures forcing the safety seal to blow and releasing all the contents out of the bottle.


Q:Will I have to change my ignition system?

A: Most late model ignition systems are well suited for nitrous applications. In some higher HP cases, it may be advisable to look into a high quality high output ignition system.


OKieeeeee...i think that about does it. There's alot more that I can write regarding n2o accessories such as purge valves, bigger solenoids, remote bottle openers, fuel management, etc. But my fingers are kinda tired and I'll post here or edit this post later. ..........

Edit: I'm back. With a little info on some "optional" parts that you can purchase w/your N2O kits and their purpose.

Bottle Warmer/Blanket: This is a heated blanket that wraps (or rather straps, with velcro) around your bottle. When switched on it will warm up the bottle, expand the contents and thus increase the amount of PSi inside the bottle. Reason you might want to use it? Most people tend to like to run their pressure somewhere between 9 and 12 (thousand) psi. Most of these bottle warmer kits run on a relay. I've found most of these relays to become defective after a while. I find the easiest way is to bypass the relay, hook it up directly to a switch and just watch the pressure via an in cabin gauge. It can get risky though if you don't watch that pressure.

Purge System: It's how you see that famous white plume of n2o sometimes. It actually servese a purpose other than announcing you're spraying, believe it or not! LoL The purpose of a purge is to remove / clear your lines of any gaseous air from your main feed line. It does not necessarily have to be positioned somewhere where you can observe the white plume, although it is indicative that all is clear to go. Some people opt to position the purge towards the solenoids in order to cool them. A fairly cheap addition to your n2o kit.

In cabin gauges: First understand there are 2 types of gauges. Electical and mechanical. Electrical are fairly easier to install, but depend on your electric system, therefore any malfunction...well you know the rest. They are supposedly calibrated in the same fashion, but some say one is more accurate than the other. Your best bet is to research a little on this. I've always used mechanical and haven't had any issues. An in cabin gauge is mostly for convenience / tuning purposes. As in you don't have to run to your trunk to check the gauge on the bottle, and as in if you have ur warmer connected to a direct switch you can know when to shut it off w/out standing by the bottle watchin the pressure rise.

Remote bottle openers: Super convenient but have been known to not work as well the longer you have them. Remote bottle openers (obviously) hook on to the top of your bottle where you open and close it. This means, every time you take your bottle to get filled, you gotta remove it, and replace it once u put the bottle back in your car. I've noted w/alot of users that wear and tear causes it not to fully open / close the bottle at times. This could vary from person to person. It's convenient because, u don't have to run to the back of the car or reach behind ur seat to open and/or close the bottle. N2O at the flick of a switch!

Window/RPM switches: Most popular that I know of are the MSD window switches. Basically what this item allows you to do is control between what and what RPM you want to spray. For example if you would like to spray between 3500 and 7200 rpms, then you would buy the pack of "pills" that contain these rpm's. Some people worry about hitting rev limiter, etc. etc, or spraying too low in the rpm band. This would be a perfect "added safety measure" for those that worry about, for lack of a better term, going kaboom. Again, an added safety measure and you don't really NEEEEED this, unless you're scared and want some extra safety. IIRC (correct me if i'm wrong), these can be used in combination w/a throttle switch.

Hope some of that helps!
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Last edited by SRT-Fatale : 02-14-2005 at 08:09 PM.
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Old 01-01-2005, 12:04 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Thanks it helps alot
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Old 01-01-2005, 02:29 AM   #3 (permalink)
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YW

I'd like to make an addition eventually regarding the following items; bottle warmers/blankets, purge systems, in cabin gauges, remote bottle openers, and window switches. Maybe I can get to it tomorrow but anyone else can feel free to jump in.
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Old 01-01-2005, 02:28 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Great FAQ, Sticky this now plz
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Old 01-01-2005, 08:02 PM   #5 (permalink)
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nice post, here's another link with beginers tips and jet sizes for the srt, it was on the list before but is now gone, are we loosing post after we go over 2 pages long. http://community.webtv.net/nitrousgod/NITROUS101
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Old 01-01-2005, 08:21 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Here's something I wrote up for Neons.org, it showed up on a Nissan Forum too. LOL Feel free to use it if it helps...

LOTS of Nitrous (With NX Progressive Controller)

Scott Kornish wrote:
You're looking at start percent of 20-30% in 1st w/ build time of 2 seconds or so.
30-45% start percent in 2nd gear.
40-65% in 3rd gear.
50-80% in 4th gear

Start with long build times and low percentages and work your way to faster build times and higher nitrous start percentages.

NX conservatively states that a typical stock 4 cylinder engine can handle a straight 75 shot with no problems. At 3000 rpms the torque added would be 75hp*5252rpm/3000rpm = 131.3 ft-lbs. So to be conservative we'll say your engine can handle making 230ft-lbs of torque without bending a rod. (Assuming you're hitting the nitrous while already accelerating the car). You want to set up you nitrous controller so you don't exceed this torque limit. At 6000rpms a 125 shot would add 125*5252/6000 = 109.4ft-lbs. You're way safe as long as you set the time on the controller to be hitting full nitrous by the time you're at 6000rpm. I use Desktop Dragstrip to help figure out time in each gear so I know how long to set the build time for. Its kind of a guessing game, but just work your way up and input your data as you go to match your real world runs as closely as possible.

Here's a basic "How To: Not Break your Engine with Nitrous" I wrote...

"From my experience and what I've researched on the subject I believe that an engine will live a long and healthy life with nitrous use if you just don't exceed certain limits. Pretty much all common sense...
1) You can't ask the engine to make too much torque, you'll bend the rods
a)You can use more nitrous at higher rpm and in higher gears, the converse is also true.
2) You can't overrev the motor, rods will fly apart.
3) You have to have enough fuel
4) You can't have too much ignition advance or too low of octane
5) You can't run nitrous for too long with stock internals, rings will butt together and pistons may get a hole in them.
6) Any detonation with stock internals is BAD. Cast/hypereutectic pistons will crack pretty easy under these conditions.

example 1:
Neon guy decides he wants to see what nitrous does if you shoot from idle. I saw some nice pics of bent rods...

example 2:
Neon guy has a 2.4 with bolt ons, shoots a 75 shot for awhile with no problems. Moves up to a 100 shot and blows up his engine in a month. Why though? This guy was doing a couple no-no's. He had a stock fuel pump (only good to about 225hp), AFX pcm which advanced timing, no timing retard, stock internals, and raced a Mustang Cobra to over 140mph when he got a big hole in one of his pistons.

example 3:
Civic guy w/ a d16 hatch, stock internals, did everything right, had a 3 stage nitrous system and shoots a 150hp NOS shot, even 180 a few times. Never had a problem in the couple years he had it set up like that. The car was still running strong when he sold it.
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Old 02-14-2005, 08:10 PM   #7 (permalink)
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added a little info w/regards to some n2o accessories. hope that helps. feel free to chime in or let me know if anythin should be edited.
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Old 06-15-2005, 05:49 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Are we going to have some N2O help specificly for our SRT-4 . i mean that was all great information. but i still have questions
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Old 06-16-2005, 11:47 PM   #9 (permalink)
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NO2* sorry but I have a question on exactly you guys are running on your car's and your likes and dislikes. Which would you guys prefer NOS NX or it doesnt matter.
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Old 06-25-2005, 06:27 PM   #10 (permalink)
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NOS and NX are both great kits. I'd prefer NX but that's me, simply because i've used it on my previous car. And you were right the first time...it's N2O. Two nitrogen per one oxygen.
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Old 06-19-2006, 07:15 PM   #11 (permalink)
 
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can someone help me with the difference with dry, wet, and direct port kits?
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Old 10-16-2006, 03:46 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Default T-ing into fuel line for wet kit (zex part #82021)

this is how i t-ed into the fuel line instead of paying for a new fuel rail(zex part #82021) :
materials:
3 feet of 5/16 high pressure efi fuel line ( to be safe, youll have some extra)
4 efi clamps,
the tee and 90 degree fittings (included in 82021 kit)

total cost:
about $20 give or take from your local parts store

procedure:
1.) remove the stock fuel line that goes from the firewall to the fuel rail, might be hard cause of the stupid little clips, but save this incase you want to return the car to stock one day.
2.)measure the line so there is enough to go from the firewall to the top of the valve cover. cut it, and clamp it to the fuel line coming from the firewall
3.)take the T from the nitrous kit, and screw in the 90 degree fitting with sealant and then attach the 90 degree an fitting to that. clamp the hose to the inlet of the tee
4.)measure a peice of line from the tee to the fuel rail, cut it, then clamp one end to the fuel rail inlet and the other to the outlet of the tee.
5.) attach the an fuel hose to the an female fitting on the tee and then to the box.
6.)make sure its all tight, then fire it up and go for a run

step 2: hose from firewall, to tee

step 3-5 completed: tee installed, 90 degree fitting, and 90 degree an fitting

step 4: hose from tee to fuel rail

step 5: an steel braided fuel line from tee to zex brainbox
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Old 10-16-2006, 07:32 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by bigsrt4dawg
can someone help me with the difference with dry, wet, and direct port kits?

Wet you inject both fuel and nitrous. Infinitly adjustable a/f ratios

Dry you inject nitrous the MAF on the car adds the extra fuel(srt4's dont have one so it wont add fuel so you cant tune it. Get a wet kit.)

Direct port injects both nitrous and fuel into each cylinder. Recommended for much more than 75hp. This keeps the nitrous and fuel equal in all cylinders. With just a wet kit when you start spraying huge amounts of nitrous and fuel some cylinders will get more, some less. This can cause one cylinder to run lean while another runs rich. Your wideband or the dyno will show your a/f ratios are fine when they are not.

Its always a good idea to have a wideband or tune your system on a dyno. Once you have the a/f ratios right make a run. Immediatly cut the motor and check each plug. Its easy to do this on a dyno. Tune the system and just cut the engine after your last run. Make sure all cylinders are running the same. Compare all spark plugs to each other. If you dont know how to read plugs learn how, and get help in the meantime. Its a good idea to check your plugs after each run or at very least every few runs. Change your plugs often, and make sure to use a colder plug than stock. If they come out sparkling white after driving awhile you may want to go to a colder plug. Sparkling white means it is running really hot. The proper plug should be uniformly tan. NOT bright white. The heat range of the plug is what keeps the plug clean, along with keeping your engine from going bye bye to soon.

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Old 10-16-2006, 08:45 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by SRT-Fatale

Bottle Warmer/Blanket: This is a heated blanket that wraps (or rather straps, with velcro) around your bottle. When switched on it will warm up the bottle, expand the contents and thus increase the amount of PSi inside the bottle. Reason you might want to use it? Most people tend to like to run their pressure somewhere between 9 and 12 (thousand) psi. Most of these bottle warmer kits run on a relay. I've found most of these relays to become defective after a while. I find the easiest way is to bypass the relay, hook it up directly to a switch and just watch the pressure via an in cabin gauge. It can get risky though if you don't watch that pressure.

Correct me if I'm wrong but shouldn't that be hundred? Not thousand. 9000 and 12000 seems like alot of pressure.
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Old 10-17-2006, 06:23 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Yes its 900 to 1200. I like it right at 1000. Remember if you tune it at 900psi and then run it at 1200 you will be pushing more nitrous through. So it will change your a/f ratios. This isnt a problem if you have it tuned on the rich side, but if you are really trying to push the envelope and are running as lean as you can watch those psi's. It might be best to tune it at 1050 so it has equal ways to go in both directions.

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