So as the summer months cook....i was thinking a small...35 shot with a purge to a custom intercooler bar....would keep things exciting for the summer.
Really looing for the cooling effect and the little bump...i could drop my boost in 3rd and 4th have a first gear lockout and a 3k to 6k window.
What risks do i run I'm @ 11.2 max till redline at 80 % dutycycle..(approx) i'm about at injector limit to be safe...(630 instead of 650 or 750)
just curious. HP and basic specs below.
Put down your thoughts. i'm looking for a healthier powerband not peak hp.
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SRT4 2004 Black , blacked out. 425whp
3076/CAMS/ complete suspension, brakes.
.RAGE BUILT.
GTO 2004 H/c/h . Auto/Pedders 1 suspension/3500 Vig Stall /75 dry/ LS1
GTO 2006 H/c/h M6/Pedders 2 with drop susp. /3.91 w Harrop rear/100 wet. LS2 + a few more "bolt ons"
Nitrous is a separate power. Meaning that it is an add on to you tune. You only tune with the jets provided in the kit. So YES, you can be safe at 11.2s and a 35 shot for the cooling/power. Go for it.
but you are on stock block and even with a 35 you probably will still make at least 50whp. that would put you at 475 or more. if you are going to spray only spray with race gas or have a way to log timing. i saw your timing from the post on the bg flash and it was fairly high for pump and spray. do you have wi? if you dont then wi and a little more boost should be better for you. because i asume you have a return line and with nitrous you will get rich spikes and the only way to tune them out is a progressive. personaly i would rather spend the money on building the motor for alot more boost if you want a kick in the pants.
here look at this post i explained why you need a progressive and how to help you tune it when you get everything going. bottom of page1 and most of page two will relate to you and your set up. need some info..thanks
I'm almost always running octane. i don't need more power...not pk anyway.
i'd like a stronger crisper,v8 like low end repsonse... I don't have LAG..
but i'd like it to have a broader POWER band.
then you could run a 50shot with a normally closed hobbs switch and set it to turn off at say 15psi. you could get the wet kit and then hobbs switch from a wi vendor. i think they are only like 21bucks. that would be what i would do if you just want a broader powerband. because you wouldnt have to worry about poping the motor because you wouldnt be at full boost but you will have to find the fuel jet that will work ok. it probably will have to run rich as you are comming to the 15psi mark but will run fine at vac and lower boost. just as i explained in the other thread i just doesnt seam the fuel jet reacts exacly pedicably to the raise in pressure so fast.
I thought I would use a 35shot to cool, and add pep to the car in HOM. While the car was a beast on it, when it held, I decided to run a decent shot off HOM. A 50 or 75 you will feel, but a 35 is just a tickle. If you do decide to spray, run alittle less boost, and timming. Then just hold on, because a decent shot is safe on my stg3, car loves the stuff. My only advice to you is, your not ready, because nitrous is a hit. When I mean hit, I mean hit, instant torque the second the solenoid is opened. That with a big turbo watch out, instant spool on the spray. You'll love the fact that on a decent shot of spray on lower boost will run circles around your big boost, race gas tune. How, the instant spool and torque created from the nitrous hit.
I use race gas when I adjust or lean out a kit, but 90% of spraying time is on pump. -136 degrees will cool the intake charge better then W\I 10fold baby.
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OK, stg3 toys, Mpx3", MaxxFab 3"02, Samco's, Injen Ntake, Tbolts, Mp Clutch, Bov, STS, NX Nitrous kit, Ported intake & head, forged JE .020 8-1, Eagle Rods, No Balance Shafts, ARP fasteners, UD pulley.......Almost as fast as Drastic!!
But like i said your big turbo will react diff than his s3. If you are going to spray you should have it kick off before full boost. If you dont i hope your motor will last long enough at close to 500whp.
Your bottom end is more likely to have problems from increased torque in the lower rpm range. At higher RPMS the extra power wont be as much of a problem as the higher torque at lower rpms. I would not worry about the exact hp at high rpms although the extra boost from the nitrous may make you want to cut the nitrous, or better yet have a backwards activation. What I mean is having a progressive controller and have the nitrous go from high to low as the rpms/boost increase. Say have a 50 shot at 3000 and dwindle to nothing at around 6000. This is the opposite of what most people need. But I am never in favor of dropping that much power all of a sudden. You are happy with the high end power correct? I mean you dont want anymore right now correct? What you want is to have the power instant with no waiting on the boost? But you wouldnt want to feel a sudden loss of 50 to 75 hp at 5000 to 6000 rpms. So having the nitrous ramp down would make it where you never feel a loss of power. The increasing boost would make it feel like there was never a loss, just a steady relaible increase. This way you wouldnt have to mess with the boost, or anything else for that matter.
that is basically what i said but my way is alot cheaper than a progressive. with the hobbs switch and the gt30 with it switching off at 15psi. will be almost seamless because from 15 to 22psi is very quick with that turbo.
I thought I would use a 35shot to cool, and add pep to the car in HOM. While the car was a beast on it, when it held, I decided to run a decent shot off HOM. A 50 or 75 you will feel, but a 35 is just a tickle. If you do decide to spray, run alittle less boost, and timming. Then just hold on, because a decent shot is safe on my stg3, car loves the stuff. My only advice to you is, your not ready, because nitrous is a hit. When I mean hit, I mean hit, instant torque the second the solenoid is opened. That with a big turbo watch out, instant spool on the spray. You'll love the fact that on a decent shot of spray on lower boost will run circles around your big boost, race gas tune. How, the instant spool and torque created from the nitrous hit.
I use race gas when I adjust or lean out a kit, but 90% of spraying time is on pump. -136 degrees will cool the intake charge better then W\I 10fold baby.
What RPM are you spraying at and using what method? (Manual, TPS, window switch?)
that is basically what i said but my way is alot cheaper than a progressive. with the hobbs switch and the gt30 with it switching off at 15psi. will be almost seamless because from 15 to 22psi is very quick with that turbo.
Will the sudden decrease in intake volume, and thus exaust volume not slow the spool down for a moment? I dont have an aftermarket turbo, and all my other cars were either all motor or supercharged so I have never tried it on my own car. I am just passing on what other cars around here have done, but then again these guys had no concern for money.
well alot of drifters run a just a wet kit and a hobbs switch. yes it will slow down the spool for a moment but really a gt30 isnt that big of a turbo for a 2.4li motor. true a progressive would be the best and i recamended that in the 3rd post but a hobbs switch will work just fine but it will take some tuning as far as when to have it switch off. i think 15psi will be good because the gt30 should hit 15psi at about 3k from a bog so with a real punch say a 40roll it will spool very fast. i think he is mainly looking to take away the initial lag that he has and a small 50shot will do that. and you wont feel the drop off as much because with a big turbo at about 15psi is when you feel the swelling of trq and thats when most of them are just starting to make really good power.
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