having some issues

[toyoguru]

i finshed my direct port install yesterday and figured i would try it out on the dyno today since everything went good last night with the 2 pulls we did last night on the street. heres the lowdown im on 24psi and droped to 20 at redline and using the safcII to tune on 110 racegas. my a/f is 11.5 all the way to 5k the drops to 11.2 at redline. i did the dyno pull in 4th gear in hom and you can see on the dyno sheet it kicks out around 4200 rpm and im not running no 93/110 mix, this was all 110 in the system. the next pulls was with a 75 shot (NO HOM) and you can look at the sheet and tell something is bad wrong with it only picking up 25 hp with a 75 shot and my a/f was 11.7 till 5k the droped to around 11.2 at redline. im thinking its pulling a ass load of timeing to just die like that..but if it was sensing knock that bad you would hear that big amount of knock..so i dunno if the knock sensor is acting up or what.any input on this will be helpful. heres a mod list.

stage3r,full 3" from turbo back,agp wastegate at 24 psi,aem cai,bfmic,ssqv, aeromotive return line, bottleneck fix, walbro 255, fuel pump rewire, granatelli wires, ngk 2 step colder irridums,zex direct port, act 6 puck,80psi static fuel pressure and tuned with the safcII, theres some more odds and ends but can think of them right now

[Rhunter]

So you are trying a 75 shot on hom? That motor is not gonna last.

Do a search for Hom + nitrous. Ddog ran a 35 + hom and now his motor is TOAST, but he was planning a rebuild anyway.

Good luck man.

[toyoguru]

the first run was on hom without nitrous, the other runs were just on nitrous...i know the bad things that could happen when sprayn on hom..advance timeing plus the juice = bad things

[COY]

could you hold HOM before the spray was put on ?

If not try all the nomal things. Retorque knock sensor or replace all together. Some with solid mounts have had no luck holding HOM and had to go back to stock mounts.
You spent the money on a direct port set up but didnt spend the cash on a simple scan gauge to monitor knock?

[toyoguru]

Quote: Originally Posted by COY

could you hold HOM before the spray was put on ?

If not try all the nomal things. Retorque knock sensor or replace all together. Some with solid mounts have had no luck holding HOM and had to go back to stock mounts.
You spent the money on a direct port set up but didnt spend the cash on a simple scan gauge to monitor knock?

it use to hold hom but have had problems with it kicking out lately, basically it did it the previous time i tried hom at the strip but i though it was due to not enough 110 in the tank. but this time it was all 110 cause i filled it up when the gas light was blinking and then drove on it for about 2 days before i dynoed it. we put it on the scanner from work and found out its pulling 20 degrees timing and got as high as 1.5 volts on knock response. i tried retorqing the sensor and it still kickes out. so i just replaced it but havent had a chance to monitor it yet since im waiting on the scan gauge to come in..i never seen the purpose of gettn a scan gauge till now since the car was a stock stage3 till i've recently started to mod it again. plus i only have 200 bucks in the direct port setup so it was a deal i couldnt pass it by

[Dojaman]

Hom and nitrous works great. But i already have a forged motor, and a wideband and a scan gauge. but also, i am not doing it every weekend at the track or around town. Also a nitrous kit with a Fuel pressure switch and a boost sensor and rpm and 1st and 2nd gear lockout....... I am very paranoid......
Let us know what you see with your wb and scan gauge. I broke my DP once and i really couldnt tell because the car was so loud anyway (it set off my knock sesnor)... but the SG and WB made me notice something was weird. and i found the problem. I really wouldn't mod any car without Either of those great tools.

What exactly are you doing with the SAFC? Pulling fuel when? You do not have the stock stage 3 fuel rail and in pump regulator??

Put it back stock to stage 3. Then spray it.

[toyoguru]

Quote: Originally Posted by Dojaman

Hom and nitrous works great. But i already have a forged motor, and a wideband and a scan gauge. but also, i am not doing it every weekend at the track or around town. Also a nitrous kit with a Fuel pressure switch and a boost sensor and rpm and 1st and 2nd gear lockout....... I am very paranoid......
Let us know what you see with your wb and scan gauge. I broke my DP once and i really couldnt tell because the car was so loud anyway (it set off my knock sesnor)... but the SG and WB made me notice something was weird. and i found the problem. I really wouldn't mod any car without Either of those great tools.

What exactly are you doing with the SAFC? Pulling fuel when? You do not have the stock stage 3 fuel rail and in pump regulator??

Put it back stock to stage 3. Then spray it.

yeah im having to pull fuel because it was going pig rich at wot, when i bought my stage 3 it didnt come if the stage 3 fuel regulator and didnt really think nothing about it till i drove it and seen afr going high 12s-13s on the test drive. so i did did the bottleneck mod and added a aeromotive fuel return. so thats why im having to pull fuel. i had the stage3 rail on there but went back to my 03 rail where i would have the room for the direct port. scan gauge will be here today that way i can see whats happening because my a/f is good, got it set up 11.7-11.8 till 5k the falls to 11.2 near redline

[Rhunter]

Quote: Originally Posted by toyoguru

yeah im having to pull fuel because it was going pig rich at wot, when i bought my stage 3 it didnt come if the stage 3 fuel regulator and didnt really think nothing about it till i drove it and seen afr going high 12s-13s on the test drive. so i did did the bottleneck mod and added a aeromotive fuel return. so thats why im having to pull fuel. i had the stage3 rail on there but went back to my 03 rail where i would have the room for the direct port. scan gauge will be here today that way i can see whats happening because my a/f is good, got it set up 11.7-11.8 till 5k the falls to 11.2 near redline

Hmmm,

I'm far from a tuning expert, or any type of expert for that matter but as you know SAFC pull fuel by hiding boost from the PCM. So in other words,
Your engine is now running higher timing for 13 pounds of boost, but is actually running 16 pounds. Some 50 trim guys that run on a SAFC have had this problem.

[toyoguru]

Im aware of the fact that the safc is only hiding boost and as such will have a bit more timing. I even put the fuel back in to allow the PCM to see full boost and it still did it. The car is pulling timing and sensing "knock" at 3-4Krpm under lower boost..The problem has to lie somewhere else. I still haven't checked the timing with the new knock sensor in, so when the scan gauge comes in, I will see if Im still seeing the high voltage response from the knock sensor. Hopefully that will have solved the issue, but if not, I may take out the motor mount inserts and see if that calms it down..

Thanks for all the help so far..

[Rhunter]

Quote: Originally Posted by toyoguru

Im aware of the fact that the safc is only hiding boost and as such will have a bit more timing. I even put the fuel back in to allow the PCM to see full boost and it still did it. The car is pulling timing and sensing "knock" at 3-4Krpm under lower boost..The problem has to lie somewhere else. I still haven't checked the timing with the new knock sensor in, so when the scan gauge comes in, I will see if Im still seeing the high voltage response from the knock sensor. Hopefully that will have solved the issue, but if not, I may take out the motor mount inserts and see if that calms it down..

Thanks for all the help so far..

Please keep us informed on this one. Something all of nitrous guys may come across at some point in time.

[Dojaman]

With all that tuning effort, sell your stage 3 ecu and toys and pick your standalone of choice. Please keep us posted.