Hey guys,
I'm new the nitro scene, I have read every sticky, and every thread in relation to my questions. I have not decided if I am going to do it, for if I wont... I'm just gathering thoughts, and to give me stuff to think about.
I have a few more specific, perhaps more difficult/impossible to answer questions.
1)After reading the nitrous back fire thread where he blows a hole in the intake mani, and charge piping I wonder- He said the solenoid got stuck open when he missed the shift, and when he finally got it into gear went WOT, thats when the explosion happened. So, would there be any way to continue driving without a serious back fire happening if the solenoid did get stuck open? Or if it gets stuck open during a miss shift and you pretty much SOL?
2)Currently, I'm running stage 3 w/toys. Yes, I know I can run nitro, I know to take all the safety precautions. If I were to run it I would only be looking at a small shot.. 35-50hp shot, to be exact and only spraying in 3rd gear and up. What kind of wear and tear will this cause on the bottom end of the motor? I know it's not going to be healthy on it, I just dont want to melt a piston or chuck a rod at this point at all. I'm only boosting about 20 lbs right now and fuel above 91 octane is not available.
3)I have an aftermarket ignition limiter lying around here somewhere. Suppose I set that to cut ignition at 6200, would this protect the motor for misshifts? Fuel will still dump in, just cuts igintion..
Hey guys,
I'm new the nitro scene, I have read every sticky, and every thread in relation to my questions. I have not decided if I am going to do it, for if I wont... I'm just gathering thoughts, and to give me stuff to think about.
I have a few more specific, perhaps more difficult/impossible to answer questions.
1)After reading the nitrous back fire thread where he blows a hole in the intake mani, and charge piping I wonder- He said the solenoid got stuck open when he missed the shift, and when he finally got it into gear went WOT, thats when the explosion happened. So, would there be any way to continue driving without a serious back fire happening if the solenoid did get stuck open? Or if it gets stuck open during a miss shift and you pretty much SOL?
2)Currently, I'm running stage 3 w/toys. Yes, I know I can run nitro, I know to take all the safety precautions. If I were to run it I would only be looking at a small shot.. 35-50hp shot, to be exact and only spraying in 3rd gear and up. What kind of wear and tear will this cause on the bottom end of the motor? I know it's not going to be healthy on it, I just dont want to melt a piston or chuck a rod at this point at all. I'm only boosting about 20 lbs right now and fuel above 91 octane is not available.
3)I have an aftermarket ignition limiter lying around here somewhere. Suppose I set that to cut ignition at 6200, would this protect the motor for misshifts? Fuel will still dump in, just cuts igintion..
Thanks, I think that is all for now.
- The nitrous backfire happened because he had a faulty mechanical activation switch (micro switch?), that stayed open. The missed shift probably had very little to do with the switch getting stuck. When he let up on the gas (to shift) the switch stayed in the open position) To solve that problem, run a kit with a TPS activation switch. It operates of of the TPS WOT signal.
- As far as wear and tear, thats impossible to say. if set up properly, with a great tune, your motor should live a long and healthy life. Keep in mind since you are running S3 already, it leaves less margin for error. You will want to ensure that your A/F's are safe and keep an eye on KR. I don't have a S3 car so I can't and won't comment on how much nitrous you can and should use.
As far as the ignition thingy you are talking about, I think you would be better served with a window switch or wait until N@MB releases there new nitrous control module. From what I'm hearing you won't need a window switch to run it.
- You only have 91 oct fuel? You better get water injection then. You are gonna need higher octane fuel. I run 110 race gas when I us my nitrous.
- Nitrous is a blast!!! I gained over a second and more than 11MPH in the quarter mile using nitrous!! It's the best mod I've done to my SRT-4, That and rage tek shift bushings!!!
This is the only time I've seen or heard of it on a SRT-4. I've heard the V8 guys talk about it happening. I don't want to make micro switches out to be evil but why not use TPS activation?
I wouldn't say it's common, but why not use something more reliable for activating/deactivating a N2O system. TPS activation justs get wired in. The microswitch has to be positioned precisely so that the gas pedal or throttle linkage makes contact at the right point to allow activation. TPS/WOT activation FTW!!!
Would I really need more octane for a small shot since the N2O is an independant induction?
Plus, wouldn't the nitro freeze the water that's being injected into the system?
Would I really need more octane for a small shot since the N2O is an independant induction?
Plus, wouldn't the nitro freeze the water that's being injected into the system?
If you run 100% meth you will be fine. That seems to be the trend on this board now. Guys are doing it and getting great results.
In my opinion, 91 octane + Stage III + nitrous could equal trouble. Again, you are going to have less margin for error in your tune. Race gas is cheap insurance against detenation. Since you can't get a hold of race gas, water injection is the next best thing.
newbie ?! im going to spray on street tires so i know tracing will be difficult, how is every1 spaying on steet tires? i was thinking possibly having the window switch, micro or tps, and a push button so i can only spray in like 3rd and 4th but that might really take away from the benifits. any (+)comments would be awesome
newbie ?! im going to spray on street tires so i know tracing will be difficult, how is every1 spaying on steet tires? i was thinking possibly having the window switch, micro or tps, and a push button so i can only spray in like 3rd and 4th but that might really take away from the benifits. any (+)comments would be awesome
Go baby go button =
You can get a window switch that has 1st gear lock out, then make sure your nitrous does not activate until 3500 RPM
Bottom line is you are going to spin on street tires!!! Nitrous is a serious torque multiplier. If you are that serious about putting the traction down then a progressive controller is what you needs. It applies the nitrous shot by percentages over time.
nitrous on street tires is hard i have ran 12.09@126 with a 100shot and mods in my sig. but my car will run 12.8's at 110to113 on boost only. this is at elevation too. i only spay 3rd and 4th but im taking it real easy untell about half track. i was going to the track the first week in june but my fuel noid went out so i may go boost only or try and buy a noid soon.
I use the dynotune WOT/Window Switch. When I was finished programming it, I velcroed it inside the fuse box area so it was out of the way and easy to get to.
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Few More n2o questions
let us know how you do.
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