that sounds right, i didnt think about that one, but now what happens when u r using the 2step?
you have to wire in another relay, and use it in conjunction like the old timers do on trans brake\2step nitrous cars.
I soon will be doing a 4 nozzle piranha on my setup. I'll probably complicate the kit, by using a progressor with window switch. I want to plumb the project this weekend, so the more pictures the better. I'm most worried about the 1# cylinder clearence.
So detailed pictures on the 1# hose to runner clearence needed.
__________________
I got's a fuel cell......................what you got?
DDog, see post 2 second and third image. Its a close fit but its easy to figure out, have everything installed but the nozzles, then place the nozzles (eyeballing for mock up purposes) about even with the ridges in the intake manifold. I'm sure the setup shown in the image in Post #8 was because the installer was afraid of hitting the rad hose.
The issue is the thermostat housing, Nemo at Rage-Tek sells a spacer thats about 1/4 in that will move the thermo housing out and allow for a little more clearance.
The fuel rail also comes into play as the Boomba rail is taller and will hang out over the intake manifold more then the stock or the Fullblown rail.
The install in post 19 may be with a thermostat spacer installed, so be careful in duplicating too closely just from images.
Post 2 3rd image shows the S3 rail. Those fittings I have screw into a taped hole thats 1/8 BSP, so theres just enough room buts its tight. you may want to look at an under the manifold install or go from the side like shown in post 8.
Post 2 3rd image shows the S3 rail. Those fittings I have screw into a taped hole thats 1/8 BSP, so theres just enough room buts its tight. you may want to look at an under the manifold install or go from the side like shown in post 8.
i think under the intake would be great to hide your set up, thats what i wana do
i think under the intake would be great to hide your set up, thats what i wana do
my biggest concern is clearence under there...
Does anyone have any pics of a under the manifold set up? Im all for stealth but i dont want to drill extra holes in the pursuit to find out its not possible...
__________________
SARCASTIC.
FS: O2 housings(stock/stage 3), stock IC(s), Autometer Wideband (ultralite pro comp $330 gauge), 49lb Ported FnF Stg 3 Big wheel with 3.5" O2 and AGP WGA(CHEAP)...PM for offers
I plan on doing mine from the top. There's just no room under the intake for changine jets. I just had to wait to mock up the engine again, before undertaking the 4 nozzle. Hopefully in a week or 2, I'll be doing my 4 nozzle.
I plan on doing mine from the top. There's just no room under the intake for changine jets. I just had to wait to mock up the engine again, before undertaking the 4 nozzle. Hopefully in a week or 2, I'll be doing my 4 nozzle.
Forgive me if my logic is(and probably is) off, but couldnt you run one fuel and nitrous solenoid for a direct port and then just have a splitter or 4 seperate lines go to the nozles? If so you could put the solenoids anywhere you want(for ease of changing jets or to hide as most want to do)....
The jets go into the nozzle, hense the reason why you need easy access. I just rebuilt my engine, the clearence on the 1# runner was\is my biggest concern. The radiator hose & stg3 fuel rail doesn't leave alot of room, or margin for error. I'll order my single to 4 nozzle conversion and get my done in about 2 weeks. Until then, I'll continue to put my breakin miles on the car. Did 180miles on her yesterday, sickness.
I don't know why you guys bother with spacers for your thermostat housing...
That's an old pic... car's in the shop getting some work done so I can't take a new one... only one I could find where you could see the thermostat housing in it...
As you can see, the thermostat housing off a 2001-2006 Stratus or Sebring Sedan with the NA 2.4L in it (mine is a 2004) sits at a different angle (hose goes to the radiator on the passenger side on these cars). If you replaced the thermostat housing on an SRT-4 with this one, it would free up a lot of space there. The only thing you'd need to make it work would maybe be a slightly longer radiator hose, other than that it'd be a direct swap.
__________________
One of a kind custom turbocharged 2004 Chrysler Sebring LX Sedan
.:CarDomain:.
I would say a spacer is cheaper than getting an entire housing plus a new hose to make it work. More than likely you would end up with a custom hard pipe and that would be several hundred bucks all said and done vs. just the spacer price. However the straight out design does look kinda nice.
Second post, 3rd image shows the S3 rail with W/A injection jet adapters installed. These are just about the same size of the holes needing to be drilled for the nitrous nozzles. #1 & 2 intake runners is where you need to be real careful. With runner #1 the issues are the rail and the upper radiator hose. Nothing you can do with the rail, but Nemo sells a spacer for the thermostat housing that moves it about 1/4" from the cyl head, and this will help a little with this and is worth it.
For drilling into the intake. Unless porting was very very aggressive in this area the thickness should be fine. The issue with drilling & taping aluminum is galling the threads. Use Jobber bits to get near the finished size and then use a NEW bit of the correct size for the finish tap size and lube the bit while drilling. Each and every tap has a correct size bit to be used for the tap thread size and pitch, using the correct size bit for the finished size insures that you get the best results. Use lube for the tap as well and make sure to use either taper or straight through depending on whats called for by the nozzle being used..........if using a tapered pipe thread/pitch tap make sure not to run the tap all the way through.
i did mine with the zex 4 port they are the thick nozzels just make sure to mock up the intake with fuel rail, injectors, map (and make some room for the plug). i have a ported intake and it was still pretty thick just make sure you mock it up first you can draw on the intake with a pencil where the radiator hose is, it gets pretty tight up top with with all that stuff im thinking about taping the underside but mock up is gona be a bitch
AutoForums.com is the premier network of enthusiast-owned
enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
We operate more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share
experiences and opinions as a community.
Linear Mode
