You may need to search for some images for guidance.
Also consider if intake manifold spacer is used (= moving the intake out therefore closer to the upper rad hose). I did my intake for methanol port injection a while ago and the placement in #1 runner is close to the upper hose. Also watch out for fuel rail clearance, stock 03-05 rails offer most room, S3 rail and Boomba hang over a bigger part of the intake runner......not sure out other rails. I'm using a Boomba intake spacer and a Rage-Tek thermostat housing spacer so that things are more workable.
I'll get an image up in a little bit as it may help a little.
IMO what ever you do, do not drill without mocking up and then double checking things with everything installed in the car....also check the charts so that you use the correct drill bit for the correct tap being used = more important to do this with aluminum then with steel, a badly sized drill and then tap procedure will equal chewed up/galled threads made by the tap (also make sure to use a fresh tap with a little oil for lube)
Heres two images showing original setup with stock rail
When you mock things up have the rad hose and everything else installed.........with everything installed it gets tight, I wound up getting the spacer for the thermostat from Nemo because the one jet is very close to the rad hose with the Boomba intake spacer installed. I bought a Boomba rail and its tighter again because its double the size of the stock rail but I do not have an image of that yet setup yet.
Heres the same thing with the S3 rail
You can better see things here with regards to the rad hose and you can get an idea that the Boomba rail takes up room kinda of like the S3 rail. With the S3 rail both cyl 1 & 2 need clearance
Last edited by turbojack : 05-09-2008 at 05:46 PM.
You may need to search for some images for guidance.
Also consider if intake manifold spacer is used (= moving the intake out therefore closer to the upper rad hose). I did my intake for methanol port injection a while ago and the placement in #1 runner is close to the upper hose. Also watch out for fuel rail clearance, stock 03-05 rails offer most room, S3 rail and Boomba hang over a bigger part of the intake runner......not sure out other rails. I'm using a Boomba intake spacer and a Rage-Tek thermostat housing spacer so that things are more workable.
I'll get an image up in a little bit as it may help a little.
IMO what ever you do, do not drill without mocking up and then double checking things with everything installed in the car....also check the charts so that you use the correct drill bit for the correct tap being used = more important to do this with aluminum then with steel, a badly sized drill and then tap procedure will equal chewed up/galled threads made by the tap (also make sure to use a fresh tap with a little oil for lube)
Heres two images showing original setup with stock rail
When you mock things up have the rad hose and everything else installed.........with everything installed it gets tight, I wound up getting the spacer for the thermostat from Nemo because the one jet is very close to the rad hose with the Boomba intake spacer installed. I bought a Boomba rail and its tighter again because its double the size of the stock rail but I do not have an image of that yet setup yet.
Heres the same thing with the S3 rail
You can better see things here with regards to the rad hose and you can get an idea that the Boomba rail takes up room kinda of like the S3 rail. With the S3 rail both cyl 1 & 2 need clearance
damm looks nice im thinking about under the manifold "stealthy"
the n2o is gona eat up alot of room with the fogers and distribution blocks
im definatly gona take my time
thanx for the post up and pix
Search in this ection for a guy named neonmarine. He had a sweet direct port set-up tha we never got fully tuned cause he traded the car, buttword the end he made 400hp and 400tq from 3000 to almost red like with a 100 shot.
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S1, S2 WGA, wheels and tires, AGP Dog Bones, H-brace and traction bars, SRI,Ebay intercooler, 3" O2, Max Fab W/cat, custom Mopar/Borla, LM-1, and a little laughing gas 359hp and 440tq. Nitrous! my cure for depresion.
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Not sure on the jet size just yet for the methanol injection. I have several different sizes on hand to choose from. I'll know more when the car is completed and the EMS gets tuned.
Neons was not the prettiest install I've ever seen but it was darn affective. I wish he would of finished the darn car!! I wanted to see what that sucker would do at the track.
Someone else posted pics of a DP set up with the nozzles installed in the bottom of the IM but I can't remember who. the nitrous section is wierd. You have a few guys who post all the time, the others seem to be passers by. They are either considering nitrous, or were used it for a short period of time.
im thinking as close to the port as posible would be the best, to avoid losing charge due to pressure pulses, but it looks like half way down the runner is the best i can do
THATS AWSOME LOOKS LIKE THE SAME KIT I HAVE !!!!!!!!! THANX FOR THE PIC
JUST OUT OF CURIOSITY WHAT LEVEL HAVE YOU RUN IT AT AND DO YOU HAVE ANY PROBLEMS WITH THE ZEX KIT
We are working the bugs out of the street tune so it hasn't been sprayed yet.Truth be told there is no point in spraying untill i can
find more traction.
noob nitrous ? 1) is there a way to have a kit to be active when only during wot, but spray when go go button is pressed(this means i can press button but it wont spray until i am wot or i can go wot n not spray because i wont press the button)
and only posible under certain rpms?
i know some r possible like wot feature n spray at certain rpms but altogether? button feature n 2)maybe a thing where it stops sprayin when goin wot n u press the clutch? cuz i think is not good to spray during wot shifting correct?
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direct port nozel placement?
359hp and 440tq. Nitrous! my cure for depresion.
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