Hey all, been having this weird problem with the car. So this is the second time it has occured. First time I was driving back from the gym and got gas. Shut the car off, go to turn it back on, - full power, then I turn the key to start the ignition , -one click, then the car shuts off completely , all power gone. Then it takes a random amount of time to come back on. Repeat - same thing occurs for a random amount of tires. Took about 5 min. and the car then starts up and drives fine - this was about 3-4 weeks ago
Today it did the the exact same thing. However it took about 20-30 min for me to get the car to start , and going threw the process of power going out and then coming on and trying again.
What do you think the problem could be ?
Car = 94k miles, evo turbo , custom manifold -3in back, no heatshield, full supporting mods.
Mmmmm I don't think so. The battery temp sensor regulates the signal that the PCM sends to the alternator (field) to regulate the voltage that it outputs.
OP it sounds like a strange circuit breaker issue, or it could be the ignition switch. I had a 94 Intrepid that had a switch gremlin. It left me stranded in the middle of 4 lanes of traffic. After on off on off on off on off it finally started and I pulled off to the side to get a tow. I tired two different parts house switches with no luck and then I finally dissected the original switch and polished the contacts. That switch did just fine and lasted another 6 years after I sold it and the next owner drove it until it died with over 275k miles.
I am thinking the ignition switch as the first line of troubleshooting. They are relatively inexpensive to replace, or you can do what I did and take the old one out and open up the switch and polish the contacts. Start with 800 grit and move up to 1000 and then 2000. I finished up with rubbing the contacts on a rough leather belt to get a mirror finish.
First things first just verify your battery is in good condition. Meaning that its holding charge 12.6 is fully charged and has sufficient cca which even autozone will test for free if you don't have a tester handy. Clean terminal connections with no corrosion and tight Connections on the battery and ground wire to frame and also positive wire to fuse box. If that all checks ok then you would want to suspect a faulty ignition switch which you can test when it's failed or if you prefer and are able to, replace with an Oem switch. All others are junk and can not be relied on for being worth the money or reliability.
When it fails check to see if you have any non ignition switch related power anywhere, for example dome light, hazards, horn. If nothing works, clean your battery terminals and cable connections.
Thanks guys, I checked the terminals and the neg side was really corroded on the bottom side and was actually rusted threw and split in half. I was moving it around with the car on and it didnt shut off but I still replaced it.
We will see if the problem occurs anymore, if it does then its prob the ignition switch like stated by previous posts.
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